Metal Intake arm?

[mugen_ctr]

Does anyone make such item? basically to replace the crappy rubber/plastic rubber pipe...
I don't want to go the route of running a pod filter, as i personally think it create more problem than what it tries to solve...

There's nothing wrong with the air box, so why change whats working....

[xenonkuraz]

There's nothing wrong with the air box, so why change whats working....

Hey mate...you're exactly right. Why change whats working? The stock intake pipe will keep air temps lower compared to a metal pipe.

[mugen_ctr]

ah really? hrmmm.... what about in terms of air flow? id assume the stock rubber arm is quite restrictive in terms of flow

[TheSaint]

get a 45deg or 90deg silcon tube - this will keep temps down and easily fit where the stock intake arm should be

[Alvis]

i'm no expert on the topic but i'd say if you're talking about restriction it's the actual design of the stock airbox and snorkel which is most restrictive (note however tho the bell-mouth shaped duct leading from the airbox to the intake arm - tests have proven this type of bell-mouth actually reduces pressure so Honda definitely knew what they were doing): pic ur probably familiar with but you can see the bell-mouth shape below:


By civica at 2010-06-20


Firstly however, the stock intake piping (which starts up, goes down and round and round lol) is not a front facing intake (that would be pressurised by the car's forward movement) which is probably one of the better setups around now and what you see on a lot of the newer cars these days. Secondly, the stock Honda airbox itself is a square box and has a lot of 'hard' edges. It really needs to be 'smooth' to encourage optimum airflow.

In terms of the rubber intake arm which connects to the intake manifold (it does look pretty ugly huh) you just need to be careful because the intake arm is tuned specifically to work with the throttle body, intake manifold etc and making this bigger may not be the best solution. I have a quote from the book '21st Century Performance' by Julian Edgar:

"... the length of pipe that connects the factory airbox with the throttle body has normally been carefully sized in diameter and length to provide effective intake resonant tuning. If this pipe is removed so a replacement filter can be mounted directly on the throttle body power is quite likely to fall. Dyno testing carried out on a Daihatsu Charade showed that power variations of more than 7% were possible across the mid-range when intake pipe lengths that ranged from 30cm to 100cm were fitted."

Further proof is really in the pudding if you look at Mugen and the intake they designed for the EK9 - you'll notice they didn't change the rubber intake arm - it connects into it. That's convincing enough for me given the R&D they undertake when testing performance products.


By civica at 2010-06-20

And yep (sorry for the long post), you're right there's no point getting an exposed pod filter - you'll actually decrease performance rather than increase it. And I have proof from a dyno run - see below (blue = stock filter and red = exposed pod filter).

Importantly, the run was also done with the bonnet down, not up with a fan blowing cold air over the top of the engine (which i'm assuming a lot of companies do to show pods increase performance):


By civica at 2010-06-20

So, what's the answer? I'd say one of 3 options (cheapest to expensive):

1. Buy a high flowing panel filter (K&N) to replace factory paper one (leave stock box and intake arm)
2. Buy a pod filter (I've been told Fujita and Apexi are some of the best) and make a custom heat shield (protect filter from hot engine bay heat and helps stop engine detonation as a result of breathing hot air)
3. Buy a Mugen EK9 airbox!

Hope this post is helpful,

[xenonkuraz]

So, what's the answer? I'd say one of 3 options (cheapest to expensive):

1. Buy a high flowing panel filter (K&N) to replace factory paper one (leave stock box and intake arm) and remove resonator chamber
2. Buy a pod filter (I've been told Fujita and Apexi are some of the best) and make a custom heat shield (protect filter from hot engine bay heat and helps stop engine detonation as a result of breathing hot air) or even better buy or make a cold air intake which draw in cold air from the fender well
3. Buy a Mugen EK9 airbox! for pure sexyness

Hope this post is helpful,

Hey mate, really good post. Thought I'd just add to it :P

I'm with Alvis, the stock intake pipe works well and flows excellent even if it is rubber and convoluted. The biggest factors influencing decreased flow are the air box and resonator chamber.

[tsol0811]

Just a quick question guys for this thread, what if you run the air box without resonator and have a cold air pipe to the air box?
would it be better than my current metal arm SRI ?
i have a feeling i heat soaked too much so i want to change back

[mugen_ctr]

well said man...

When i do get time, ill remove the resonator from the inside of bumper, and also the one on the intake pipe... to see if it make a difference, probs not.... lol, and when funds permit, a K&N panel filter

I personally think heat shields dont do any justice, as they jus cover the pod, an thats it... jus more so looks than function, its still sucking the hot air from the motor, unless u have a cold intake feed, than maybe so i can see the benefit, but other wise...

tsol0811 i was thinking of the same idea, keep the stock air box, and remove the resonator from the inside of bumper

[TheSaint]

intercooler piping and silicon piping can be bought from supercheap auto

they also have a full online catalogue

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/

the parts arnt amazing quality but they do the job ... but its best to try improve on the oem system as best u can before modding

the best way to do this is to remove all resonators and get some cold air into the air box ... the stock intake arm isnt too bad ... the Dc2 integra intake arm is an awsome upgrade for civics =)

im getting heat soak on my simota SRI ... solution ... Fujita CAI kit lol

or u can build a heat sheild out of plasti-board and hi temp black paint =)

[xenonkuraz]

intercooler piping and silicon piping can be bought from supercheap auto

I strongly recommend against this as they are ridiculously priced. A 3" x 2" coupler is around $40 and a 90degree silicon coupler can cost $60 or more....whereas if you bought these off ebay or a performance work shop it works out much cheaper. Don't even get me started on their low-quality intercooler pipes!

well said man...

When i do get time, ill remove the resonator from the inside of bumper, and also the one on the intake pipe... to see if it make a difference, probs not.... lol, and when funds permit, a K&N panel filter

I personally think heat shields dont do any justice, as they jus cover the pod, an thats it... jus more so looks than function, its still sucking the hot air from the motor, unless u have a cold intake feed, than maybe so i can see the benefit, but other wise...

tsol0811 i was thinking of the same idea, keep the stock air box, and remove the resonator from the inside of bumper

Hey man. Removing the resonators will make a big difference in air flow and sound. Taking off the one on the intake arm won't be that noticeable but the resonator chamber that sits inside your bumper will definitely be worth removing.

Also, I have to disagree with your statement on heat shields. I think you are referring to the ones that just clip on the pod filter, which are still better than not having one at all. However the best solution for a short ram intake is building a custom heat shield such as the one made by aaronng, by completely concealing the filter from engine bay heat, whilst also feeding cold air to it by means of ram force.

[TheSaint]

built an intake for an XR6 using silicon + intercooler piping ... we also got an air dam from SS inductions

check out my civic build thread for infor on civic/xr6/liberty intakes =)

[tsol0811]

thanks guys. Off with the SRI this weekend and back on the OEM AIR BOX+ DIY cold air feed =)