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Originally Posted by wtfalfred
how can you make it that shine, if not apply any clear??
how can you do that? what did u apply to make it looks shine
its a solid comes out shiny of the gun. clear over base coat is a different system altogether
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Sxmachine
Hey man I know you do resprays, and I was just wondering like if you could spray my rocker cover for me? I was thinking about going like a really blingy colour, something really metallic and shiny lol was just wondering how much you would charge, how long it would take and if you could refit as well?
Ur inbox is full lols
Samm928: I must say your the biggest noob kid ever.
that is all.
WTFPWNED
Secretly trying to make my daily into a warrior without my missus knowing...
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Hey guys
this might be a stupid question.
but where do you buy proper car paint from? can you get it at autobahn and get them to colour match it?
I got four month off and thought i'll respray my whole car
oh and how much would it cost roughly, to respray the whole car (small 4 door sedan) by yourself?
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Paint prices vary.
Just search on yellow pages for places that sell automotive paints.
I sprayed my red EG for $150 - $250 from memory.
JDM D15B - you wouldn't understand
No K-SWAP ? No worries - Unfriend
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Originally Posted by pablos8
Sxmachine
Hey man I know you do resprays, and I was just wondering like if you could spray my rocker cover for me? I was thinking about going like a really blingy colour, something really metallic and shiny lol was just wondering how much you would charge, how long it would take and if you could refit as well?
Ur inbox is full lols
pm sent and inboxed emptied
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tiksie, wish you were in melb!
I need a few tips. I've got a front bar (OEM, plastic) and front lip (polyurethane) which I need to strip, sand and prime. I'll then take them to a panelbeater to get the final spray done as I want a perfect finish and don't have a compressor at home.
noob questions (haven't done much spraying in the past):
1) is acetone an alright thinner to be wiping down the panels with before each round of sanding?
2) what sort of primer do I need? these parts are plastic/PU which means the paintjob needs to be able to handle small amounts of flex from bottoming out etc. Do I need to use a special plastic primer, or is the K&H primer from autobarn ok, or do I need to use plastic primer, THEN the normal primer? tips here would be great as I don't want the paint cracking if I scrape the front end on driveways etc.
3) also, do I need to tell the panel shop to use any additives in the paint so that it's suitable for use on the flexible plastic surfaces?
Thanks in advance, and great thread
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bump? plastic primer or not?
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ah, i spray my lip today,
i still cant get my paint look like ur shiny.
once after all the paint... should i sand it down with 2000 grit sand paper, and then i polish it, but it still look "matt"
is it because i use spray can, not the compressor??
and how to mix the thinner??
Water and thinner?? or just put the thinner into the compressor?
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wtfalfred - Bit of a delayed response but in order to mix your Base Coat or Clear Coat you'll need to follow instructions on the label / suppliers directions. Base Coats for acrylic can vary, usually around 1:1 or 2:1 paint to thinners depending on the brand.
If you are going to do this from home you should buy proper safety gear such as goggles, respirator, disposable overalls & rubber gloves.
For equipment you can use a HVLP gun. Anything with a 1.8 - 2.0 tip is to be used for primer/filler, 1.3-1.4 tip to be used for base coats and clear coats as they are finer. You'll need a decent compressor ideally belt driven with specification to suit your spray guns. It's also wise to get a water / air separator and filter to ensure no water form the compressor is pushed through the spray guns. You get what you pay so ask the supplier and get equipment best suited to your needs and budget.
Make sure you use a paint strainer as not doing so can cause your spray gun to clog up. You need to mix the paint and thinners in a mixing cup and then pour it into the spray pot through the paint strainer which is on the spray gun.
2K paint (also known as 2PAK) consitst of Paint, Reducer and Hardener which should be left to a pro to do. It's very toxic and requires proper ventilation. Do not attempt at all costs.
Spraying from a can won't get you a glossy result, it's just the way it is. The particles don't come out fine like they do in a proper spray gun which uses much more pressure than the spray cans.
SXmachine - you can get your rocker cover sand / bead blasted and then polished. This will give you the best result. No Paint required.
Euroman deluxe - You need to use plastic primer if you are painting directly onto fresh plastic / PU. Once you have enough coats you can use normal paint on top.
Shogun124 - you need to buy all of the equipment and then on top of that the paint. You'll need at least 8 litres of thinners, 4-6 litres of base coat (depending on the car and if you are doing the door jambs), 4 litres of clear, 4 litres primer (depending if you need it), Air Sander, Sand paper, plastic sheets, masking tape and some other bits here & there as required. I spent close to $300 all up on just the paint and thinners just to give you an idea (including Filler & Primer).
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Hey guys just confirming, I'm about to have a go at respraying my second hand type R wng I purchased which is fleuro green so are these the right steps to follow?
- Sand back with 380 wet/dry until all green is gone and area is super smooth
- 2 - 3 coats of primer
- 2 - 3 coats of Alpine White (Or until satisfied)
That right? Will I need to add clear coat or ..? Thanks!
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Sand it back 380 > 600 > 800 > 1200
Always clean with wax and grease remover.
Add few coats of primer.
Sand back with 600 > 800 > 1200
Apply colour
Then apply clear
JDM D15B - you wouldn't understand
No K-SWAP ? No worries - Unfriend
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Originally Posted by poweredbyhonda
wtfalfred - Bit of a delayed response but in order to mix your Base Coat or Clear Coat you'll need to follow instructions on the label / suppliers directions. Base Coats for acrylic can vary, usually around 1:1 or 2:1 paint to thinners depending on the brand.
If you are going to do this from home you should buy proper safety gear such as goggles, respirator, disposable overalls & rubber gloves.
For equipment you can use a HVLP gun. Anything with a 1.8 - 2.0 tip is to be used for primer/filler, 1.3-1.4 tip to be used for base coats and clear coats as they are finer. You'll need a decent compressor ideally belt driven with specification to suit your spray guns. It's also wise to get a water / air separator and filter to ensure no water form the compressor is pushed through the spray guns. You get what you pay so ask the supplier and get equipment best suited to your needs and budget.
Make sure you use a paint strainer as not doing so can cause your spray gun to clog up. You need to mix the paint and thinners in a mixing cup and then pour it into the spray pot through the paint strainer which is on the spray gun.
2K paint (also known as 2PAK) consitst of Paint, Reducer and Hardener which should be left to a pro to do. It's very toxic and requires proper ventilation. Do not attempt at all costs.
Spraying from a can won't get you a glossy result, it's just the way it is. The particles don't come out fine like they do in a proper spray gun which uses much more pressure than the spray cans.
SXmachine - you can get your rocker cover sand / bead blasted and then polished. This will give you the best result. No Paint required.
Euroman deluxe - You need to use plastic primer if you are painting directly onto fresh plastic / PU. Once you have enough coats you can use normal paint on top.
Shogun124 - you need to buy all of the equipment and then on top of that the paint. You'll need at least 8 litres of thinners, 4-6 litres of base coat (depending on the car and if you are doing the door jambs), 4 litres of clear, 4 litres primer (depending if you need it), Air Sander, Sand paper, plastic sheets, masking tape and some other bits here & there as required. I spent close to $300 all up on just the paint and thinners just to give you an idea (including Filler & Primer).
Taking proper steps is all you need to do to get good results from spray cans.
JDM D15B - you wouldn't understand
No K-SWAP ? No worries - Unfriend
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