Will This Work? 180wattrms to 400watt sub

[Fhrx]

Well the amplifier sends a clipped signal to the sub champ, the sub itself doesn't clip. It just overheats and cooks.

Click here to read a little more about clipping etc.

[Creative]

I'd say get a Class D Mono blocks like the Alpline MRD-M301.

# 760W x 1 (Max)
# 350W x 1 RMS [2Ohm @ 14.4V (1% THD)]
# 175W x 1 RMS [4Ohm @ 14.4V (1% THD)]
# 250W x 1 RMS [2Ohm @ 12V (1% THD)]
# 150W x 1 RMS [4Ohm @ 12V (1% THD)]
# Digital Class-D Technology
# Digital Control Centre
# Bass Engine DSP
# Parametric EQ
# Phase Control
# Subsonic Filter
# Bass Compensation
# Thermal Management
# Amplifier Link Ready
# Remote Amplifier Control Centre Ready

You'll be running a 2-Ohms configuration with ur DVC4+4 sub which allows the amp to pump a whopping 350Wrms.

Correct me if i'm from guys

I just got this amp and a Type R 1241D 4ohm DVC subby for xmas. Havnt properly tuned it as yet, but she sounds pretty decent as it is....

Im running it in a 2ohm config and the birthsheet says it was tested to 390watts RMS @ 2Ohms

[vti-2]

One of the golden rules in car (and home) audio is:

- Always have more power on tap than the speakers/subwoofer are capable of handling.

It is much much safer to have heaps of power on tap and control it than not have enough power for a speaker and put strain on your amp as well as overheat the speaker and eventually fry a voice coil or something.

Just don't forget that golden rule above...