dc2 handling upgrade noob

[pzaway]

if i was going to upgrade my handing what would be the first option after adjustable coilovers, sway bars ? if i was to upgrade my sway bars on my vti-r teg what size would be the best and would i need anything else to backup the swaybar ?

[96VTi-R]

Get the ITR or JDM ITR rear sway bar + an ASR rear sub-frame brace, will make it handle a lot better.

[pzaway]

how about if in gona get a whiteline swaybar? How much mm should i get and where can i get these subframe brace and where is it located on the sway bar lol

[bennjamin]

how about if in gona get a whiteline swaybar? How much mm should i get and where can i get these subframe brace and where is it located on the sway bar lol

dont get a whiteline bar. Substandard bushes + fasterners etc.

Just do this. Get a


1. ITR rear swaybar + bushes + mounting brackets
2. ASR rear brace kit.

install , and reuse your existing endlinks. Instant handling upgrade.

[chargeR]

Get a


1. ITR rear swaybar + bushes + mounting brackets
2. ASR rear brace kit.

install , and reuse your existing endlinks. Instant handling upgrade.

Get the ITR or JDM ITR rear sway bar + an ASR rear sub-frame brace, will make it handle a lot better.

^Great advice. The higher overall roll stiffness and greater rear roll stiffness will make you and your tyres happy with less roll and more neutral handling. At the risk of stating the obvious though, before increasing your rear sway bar thickness I would look at getting some good high performance street tyres and ensuring your wheel alignment is good and that your suspension is in generally good condition; On track I have used Advan AD07s (I assume the successor the AD08 is at least as good) and the Dunlop Z1 and they are both great tyres. If you are on more of a budget and want more longevity the Bridgestone RE001 is a nice tyre too.

[mocchi]

^Great advice. The higher overall roll stiffness and greater rear roll stiffness will make you and your tyres happy with less roll and more neutral handling. At the risk of stating the obvious though, before increasing your rear sway bar thickness I would look at getting some good high performance street tyres and ensuring your wheel alignment is good and that your suspension is in generally good condition; On track I have used Advan AD07s (I assume the successor the AD08 is at least as good) and the Dunlop Z1 and they are both great tyres. If you are on more of a budget and want more longevity the Bridgestone RE001 is a nice tyre too.

any thoughts on rsb stiffness comparison between solid and hollow design? example, solid 23mm itr rsb vs hollow 32mm whiteline rsb?
is itr solid? theyre very heavy.

[chargeR]

any thoughts on rsb stiffness comparison between solid and hollow design? example, solid 23mm itr rsb vs hollow 32mm whiteline rsb?
is itr solid? theyre very heavy.

Given equal materials and the same geometry a hollow bar should be lighter for the same stiffness. Hard to say for sure though since other effects will come into play like compliance in the swaybar bushes, the odd shape that oem swaybars tend to be affecting stiffness, and probably a whole lot of things I don't know about. If I was upgrading my rear sway bar I would go to a 32mm hollow ASR part. Similar stiffness to 25ish mm aftermarket offerings but much lighter and with the sturdy subframe brace to boot.

[pzaway]

im just going for a cheap ass setup first year apprentice budget lol kyb shock on superlow kings with kumho ku31 i just like to take corners and be stable lol how about the front sway bars?

[meatball]

no need for front sway bar. the vtir front sway is the same size as the dc2r ones. only the rears are smaller in the vtir compared to the dc2r

[pzaway]

so why do i need this ASR rear brace kit. thing?

[Riced_Civic]

to reinforce the sub frame so it doesnt twist and brake when u put on the bigger sway bar

[EG30]

unless you are really strapped for cash and there is a whiteline bar + brace ready to be picked up v cheap stay away from it as others suggested.

my whiteline bar caused me no ends of problems ie noises, clearance issues with dc2r rear lower control arms with a low ride height, crappy fasteners ie the U clamps dont put even pressure on D bushes as a result grease leak out and dry out fast and seize within weeks, the bar iteself it's off a different shape to OE itr bar also, non metric nuts etc etc.... I wish I knew some of these problems back few years ago, I would have saved up and spend the extra $300 on the asr setup and saved myself a lot of hassles.

Just ordered an ASR kit with bar from Weksos, can wait for it to arrive to start my de-contamination of my car and start replacing all the whiteline parts on my car one by one incl front castor kit.