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  1. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Antv View Post
    how much will it cost for master/slave cylinder? sounds like im up shitcreek lol

    about $450-500 for parts and labour. Sucks , but thats a fault with honda parts. Need replacement apparently every 80-100,000ks. Even less if thrashed or non-honda fluid used

  2. #14
    thats alright i guess....

    will give Adrian a call soon

  3. #15
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EP3R
    im currently having this issue. Got new master and slave not long ago and that did help me with getting car into gears but still the crunch when high reving gear changing. I have a clutch ready to go on but just need time off to get it done. Will do a post to let yas know if it fixes this 1st to 2nd throw crunch problem

  4. #16
    Boys I had same problem with my car when I first got it, after lots of research it came down to wrong oil in gearbox, we put in redline oil and it was mistake, those gearboxes are very sensative and you should use honda gearbox oil (the one they sale at dealerships), hopefully none of your 2nd and 3rd synhros are farked.
    I was lucky I didn't drive car much, as soon as I saw the problem I stoped driving it until we found out what it was and did oil change, we changed it ones than I did around 1000km, than we changed it again so we get all the little bits of redline out, apperantly the tend to stick to gearbox and that's why it's important to get it all out.
    Ever since than my gearbox has been perfect
    good luck mate

  5. #17
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Manning
    Car:
    onevia13, CTR10
    highly likely clutch dude.

  6. #18
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    ABA-EP3, LA-EP3
    Quote Originally Posted by Malenic1981 View Post
    Boys I had same problem with my car when I first got it, after lots of research it came down to wrong oil in gearbox, we put in redline oil and it was mistake, those gearboxes are very sensative and you should use honda gearbox oil (the one they sale at dealerships), hopefully none of your 2nd and 3rd synhros are farked.
    I was lucky I didn't drive car much, as soon as I saw the problem I stoped driving it until we found out what it was and did oil change, we changed it ones than I did around 1000km, than we changed it again so we get all the little bits of redline out, apperantly the tend to stick to gearbox and that's why it's important to get it all out.
    Ever since than my gearbox has been perfect
    good luck mate
    For my jazz, i put in valvoline mtf. The gearbox felt crap and I was paranoid.

    Changed back to Honda MTF, it was back to normal except a slight diff whine So it does seem true that Honda gearbox are quite sensitive to what fluids are used.

    And because the Ep3 has a LSD, i think Honda has a separate MTF for gearboxes with LSD as well.

  7. #19
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Manly Yo
    Car:
    ED/EG5/EP3/JAZZ
    Quote Originally Posted by Poeter View Post
    For my jazz, i put in valvoline mtf. The gearbox felt crap and I was paranoid.

    Changed back to Honda MTF, it was back to normal except a slight diff whine So it does seem true that Honda gearbox are quite sensitive to what fluids are used.

    And because the Ep3 has a LSD, i think Honda has a separate MTF for gearboxes with LSD as well.
    My box whines a bit too but gears and clutch seem fine.

    I'll be changing oil soon so fingers crossed she quietens up a tad afterwards


    Anyone actually know what the whine is?
    161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
    EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO

    13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001

  8. #20
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EP3R
    Quote Originally Posted by Lukezen27 View Post
    My box whines a bit too but gears and clutch seem fine.

    I'll be changing oil soon so fingers crossed she quietens up a tad afterwards


    Anyone actually know what the whine is?
    is the whine noise when ur clutching is engaging and ur riding the clutch just b4 it makes its full engagement ?? could b clutch bearing

  9. #21
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Dc2 ITR
    i had this issue and have heavy duty clutch my release point was near the floor you u need to bring the release point out further to give the clutch more spring to engage and disengage the clutch. the adjustment is on the pedal

    my syncros have 160,000km's on them and been running 300hp at wheels for 70,000km's and still are not showing signs of wear last time the box was out 15,000 km ago. i change the gear oil every 20,000 using endless so they seam to last
    Last edited by spyda00; 30-08-2010 at 06:29 PM.

  10. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Lukezen27 View Post
    My box whines a bit too but gears and clutch seem fine.

    I'll be changing oil soon so fingers crossed she quietens up a tad afterwards


    Anyone actually know what the whine is?

    Could be input shaft bearing - a ep3 I checked on here had a major whine that was in every gear and disappeared as the clutch was released.
    FYI Luke , my ep3 does not whine at all

  11. #23
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    ABA-EP3, LA-EP3
    I thought isb produces more of a rumble noise like shattered marbles.

  12. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Poeter View Post
    I thought isb produces more of a rumble noise like shattered marbles.
    When it is totally destroyed - yes it does. Like shaking a aerosol can.

    But if it is lacking sufficient lube ( low fluid level) or is wearing it will whine. Also the bearing on the opposite end of the input shaft could be bad too

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