Rebuilding my own s2k diff

[s2kjn]

Thats true, but either risk 1k, and fix the problem for another 1.5, (if you had the same issue as I did) or spend 5k on a new diff

[dc2r-0636]

is that a diff from honda price $5,000 ? seems a bit steep lol.

cant you just upgrade ur diff to a cusco diff or something ?

[JAP-S2K]

Age..... sounds like a wheel bearing to me. Can't believe while you had the diff apart, you didn't change your final drive. Super easy mod to do.

Also thought i'd mention, that though Crown and Pinion wheel failure is common in our cars, don't blame them directly for failing, and changing them alone isn't the way to fix the problem, as there's more to it than just that. Like most cases, for every failure there's a reason why crown or pinion (sometimes both) wheels fail. This all starts from the OEM crush collar being a bit weak and they collapse over time and/or through consistent abuse (this being the main cause), This then leads to excessive float which causes/is backlash, which applies more stress to both crown and pinion wheels as neither are correctly aligned when under load. And in most cases premature wearing start's on the edges of the teeth, when this begin's naturally you have plenty of metal matter in the oil and this travels though your bearing thus causing even faster wear, thus where the diff will by now be whining, by this stage it's all too late, and you'll be up for a full rebuild. Now most diff specialists will replace or make a new collar when they rebuild your diff. My hats off to those that choose to rebuild it themselves, just remember to check the collar, better still replace it, replace all the bearing and have the LSD chemically cleaned of all existing oil and matter. Otherwise your home build will be pointless.

Also, i've known of plenty of rebuilt S2K diff's including my own, a full rebuild should not cost you more than about $500-$600, this will include all bearings, seals, remove and check LSD centre, replacement pinion collar, and fluids. This wont include new crown and pinion wheels.

[pilotb777_300]

Age..... sounds like a wheel bearing to me. Can't believe while you had the diff apart, you didn't change your final drive. Super easy mod to do.

Also thought i'd mention, that though Crown and Pinion wheel failure is common in our cars, don't blame them directly for failing, and changing them alone isn't the way to fix the problem, as there's more to it than just that. Like most cases, for every failure there's a reason why crown or pinion (sometimes both) wheels fail. This all starts from the OEM crush collar being a bit weak and they collapse over time and/or through consistent abuse (this being the main cause), This then leads to excessive float which causes/is backlash, which applies more stress to both crown and pinion wheels as neither are correctly aligned when under load. And in most cases premature wearing start's on the edges of the teeth, when this begin's naturally you have plenty of metal matter in the oil and this travels though your bearing thus causing even faster wear, thus where the diff will by now be whining, by this stage it's all too late, and you'll be up for a full rebuild. Now most diff specialists will replace or make a new collar when they rebuild your diff. My hats off to those that choose to rebuild it themselves, just remember to check the collar, better still replace it, replace all the bearing and have the LSD chemically cleaned of all existing oil and matter. Otherwise your home build will be pointless.

Also, i've known of plenty of rebuilt S2K diff's including my own, a full rebuild should not cost you more than about $500-$600, this will include all bearings, seals, remove and check LSD centre, replacement pinion collar, and fluids. This wont include new crown and pinion wheels.

I drove the car again today and the whine is still the same no better and no worse... it just whines through 3000-4000rpm and then either stops or the engine noise drowns the sound to the point where I can no longer hear it. Also when I changed my oil there wasnt much in terms of metal particles in the oil. There was a small film of shavings on the magnetic drain plug but thats it. I couldnt see anything unusual in the oil other than it being very thick and very black.

What would be ur recommendation now ? should I keep driving and see if the noise gets any worse or get it off the rd till I have someone look at it ? I'd also like to add that the whine is only noticable with the windows up and radio off... its not loud enough (yet) to be heard with the roof down unless ur really listening out for it. Also Its been like this for 2 or 3 month now without anything blowing up ! Mind you though, I never change gears hard at high RPM and I've never launched the car before...

[JAP-S2K]

Without actually hearing the whine or how loud it is? There's no way I could give you an accurate answer. However your saying the whine is noticable between 3 to 4 and not noticable after...... TBH it doesn't sound like what i was talking about. When the final drive gears are worn, the whine is very noticable and usually more noticable with the roof down, and only gets louder as you increase speed. So if it's only just noticable, i wouldn't sweat to much just yet. How many km/s has your car travelled? Also if it's rpm related (eg. does the noise between 3-4 in any gear), it ain't your diff.

[pilotb777_300]

Without actually hearing the whine or how loud it is? There's no way I could give you an accurate answer. However your saying the whine is noticable between 3 to 4 and not noticable after...... TBH it doesn't sound like what i was talking about. When the final drive gears are worn, the whine is very noticable and usually more noticable with the roof down, and only gets louder as you increase speed. So if it's only just noticable, i wouldn't sweat to much just yet. How many km/s has your car travelled? Also if it's rpm related (eg. does the noise between 3-4 in any gear), it ain't your diff.

Car has 85K KM on the clock. it definetely doesnt get louder as I increase speed lol. It will wine in any gear between 3000rpm and maybe 5000 rpm then will stop whining. For example in 6th gear on the freeway I can hear the whine accelerating from 90-95km/h then once I've hit 100km/h no more whine.... its really weird... !

I changed the gear oil today to Nulon 80W140 to see if it helps but really it made no difference. I could sometimes hear the diff whining a little while slowing down in neutral but that has now disapeared with this new oil. Not sure yet if I will keep it long term in the car as I dont know how good/bad it is for the diff...

As far as volume goes... with windows down and music on I can only hear the whine faintly in the back ground...

thanks again for all the replies ! if you have any more suggestions please let me know

Cheers

[Age_S2000]

jap-s2k i didnt change the ratio because the car is forsale after summer and i ordered the wheel bearing so i pick it up monday n we will c how we go fingers crossed

[JAP-S2K]

it definetely doesnt get louder as I increase speed lol. It will wine in any gear between 3000rpm and maybe 5000 rpm then will stop whining. For example in 6th gear on the freeway I can hear the whine accelerating from 90-95km/h then once I've hit 100km/h no more whine.... its really weird... !

It ain't your diff. Diff noises are generally speed related, not rpm related.... so i guess it's a good thing. Also there's nothing wrong with using a slightly thicker oil in a diff that's seen higher km/s.

Age, i've got a problem with one of my rear wheel bearings ATM, i've changed it twice in the last 6months and it's gone again. I torqued it as per service manual, yet it still fails....... i think it's time for a new hub assembly.