B16A FAQ

[SiR JDM]

Ok guys something I've been working on for while... been on and off busy with other stuff but finally finished it off today. Sorry for the lateness Win.

If I missed some stuff or anyone wants to add just PM me and ill add it straight on = ]

Because the same b16a questions keep coming up, in doing my conversion I learned alot, especially from Ozhonda and its members, so I hope this can be a source of information for future reference, as id like to give somethin back!

[SiR JDM]

B16A FAQ

NB – As a lot of people do this swap in EG Civics some things may be assumed for the EG Civic that may not be consistant with other models

What is the difference between the b16as?

The first generation b16a comes stock in the following models :

EF8 CRX SIR (JDM Only)

EF9 Civic SIR (JDM Only)

DA6 Xsi Integra (JDM Only)

This engine is the 160hp/118kw versoin of the b16a and has a cable transmision.



The second generation b16a, oftern refered to as b16aII or b16a2 comes stock in the following models :

EG Civic SIR (JDM Only)*

EK Civic SIR (JDM Only)*

EK Civic VTi-R

EG2/Del Sol CRX

EM1 Civic Coupe VTi-R

DA6 Integra Xsi (JDM only)*

Those models marked with an * are the 170hp/125kw varients of the b16aII, while the others are 160hp/118kw. All second generation models use hydraulic transmition.



Differences between generation 1 and generation 2 b16as include :

-Gen1 b16a uses OBD0 ECU

-Gen2 b16a uses OBD1 (from 92-95), OBD2a from (96-98) and OBD2b from (99-00)

-Gen1 b16a has 2 Oxygen Sensors (02 Sensors)

-Gen1 b16a compression ratio is 10.2, whilst the Gen2 is 10.4

-Gen1 b16a heads will have DOHC in larger font than VTEC, whilst Gen2 has DOHC written in smaller font than VTEC



Misc. b16a facts

-The auto variant of the b16a has a lower redline and different cams, to the manual variant.

-Gen1 b16a is oftern refered to as b16a1, this is only correct if reffering to the UK/Euopean delivered b16a, which is is the 150hp variant found in the EE8 CRX and EE9 Civic.

-JDM Models do not have Generation numbers stamed on their blocks. Eg. The EG Civic SIR is equipped with a Gen2 b16a, but the block will say b16a, however the AUDM Model EK Civic VTi-R motor, which is the same designation as the JDM, will have b16a2 stamped on the block.

-Automatic Gen1 b16a has single valve springs

-Only the Integra came with automatic transmition Gen1 b16a






What do I need for a conversion?

The easiest and most popular way to make sure you have everything you will need is to buy a ½ cut. [A ½ cut is the term used when referring to buying the front of a car (ie the whole engine bay), essentially it is a car cut in ½ , hence its name]


This will consist of everything* needed for the conversion. Things absolutely nessesary to be switched include (may vary depending which base model you choose):

-Engine (Block and Head)

-Engine mounts

-Headers

-Gearbox

-Gear Linkage

-Drive Shafts

-Wiring Loom

-ECU

-Radiator Hoses



* As the b16a is an electronically fuel injected engine, if you are going to do a conversion in an originally carbureted car, such as an EG breeze or GL, you will need to purchase fuel tank, fuel pump and fuel rails from a compatible EFI model Honda (such as another EG, EK, DC2)



Other things that are not essential, but are recommended include:

-Brake upgrade (At least fronts, rears if you can)

-Master cylinder and brake booster (if brake upgrade has been done)

-Radiator

-Cluster



All the listed items are found in a ½ cut, which is the reason why they are a very popular means of conversion.


A ½ cut is not the ONLY option, so don’t give up if you cannot find one.

Parts can be sourced individually. Often there will be a motor/gearbox combo. This can be still be a just as viable option, and the rest of the parts sourced from wreckers. If OEM parts cannot be found, aftermarket is also a very practicle option.

Items such as engine mounts, shift linkages, drive shafts can be purchased aftermarket from companies such as Hasport.

ECUs can also be troubling to source if you do not aquire a ½ cut. There is an array of stand alone ECUs that can be used in place of OEM ECU

Headers are from time to time damaged in the collision of the original vehicle so new ones can be sourced. Like ECU's there is an array of local and overseas based performance headers thatcan be used in place of damaged/missing OEM ones.



NB – The above listings are general advice/recommendations and may not apply to every model.



How much will it cost?

The answer to this question will vary depending on numerous variables.

b16a ½ Cuts on range from 2000-4000 depending on generation, year, kms, condition etc.

I would recommend allowing at least 3000 for a 2nd Generation b16a ½ cut.



Installation costs range anywhere from 1000-2000, depending what your getting done (EFI conversion, Rear disc conversion etc will all amount more labour time)

Doing the swap yourself is also a very popular option. It is timely, tedious, but on the whole not the hardest mechanical procedure. If you have some knowledgable help and a small budget, doing it yourself can defiantly cut costs.


If you are unable to source a ½ cut, aftermarket parts can be a little pricey. A lot of these companies are situated in the US, so shipping must be taken into account too when budgeting.


Where can I source a ½ cut?

Wreckers – Ozhonda Wreckers List - There is a good selection of Honda wreckers that should have or can source a ½ cut for you. Also try other wreckers (doesn’t have to be Honda specific) that you know of not listed here.

Importers – Various importers would have or can source ½ cuts.

http://www.hasport.com - Does not have ½ cuts, but list various b-series swap parts; such as Mounts, Wiring, Headers, Shift linkages etc..



What else?

If you are going to do the swap yourself, or even if your going to get someone professional to do it, it is very important that you (or they):

-Change Engine Oil

-Change Transition Oil

-Change Radiator Coolant

-Change Brake Fluid

-Change Brake Pads

-Change Timing belt (if applicable)

-Air-Con (if applicable) and Power steering belts

-Replace Filters (air/oil/fuel)

-Clutch inspection and replacement if necessary

-Clean items



After you source your ½ cut (or even just motor), you must realize that if this is an imported model, it would have been sitting around in Japan for a long time, in the wreckers, then the shipping yard, then being shipped here, then sitting locally for ‘x’ amount of time. This would mean that the fluids have been stagnant for ‘x’ weeks/months and need to be changed.

As, in many cases, you do not know the service history of the car, it is best to just start fresh, so you yourself can log the service history as well as not risking any damage to your new setup. While the engine is out, it is a lot easier to replace items such as your timing and power steering belts, which may be on their last legs or damaged from the freight movement. It will also work out to be cheaper (labour wise) changing them now than later on once the engine is in.

Because the imported setup has been through various locations, climates and conditions, dust/dirt/water may have entered places you do not want it. So it is very important to clean things, such as Throttle Body, Intake Manifold, Idle Control Valve, some electrical components.

Even if your newly purchased setup isn’t imported and is a local model, it is still very likely that it has been sitting at Tow-Yard, Insurance Assement Yards, Auction Yards and/or the Wreckers for a elongated period of time.



Legallity

Before jumping straight into your swap, there are a couple of things to note.

In Australia it is illegal to fit an engine that is older than the chassis
Ie. The Motor must be same year of manufacture (or newer) as your chassis.

In Victoria (not sure about other states) an engineers certificate is required for registration if you increase displacement by more than 10%.

[SINISTR]

Legallity

Before jumping straight into your swap, there are a couple of things to note.

In Australia it is illegal to fit an engine that is older than the chassis
Ie. The Motor must be same year of manufacture (or newer) as your chassis.

In Victoria (not sure about other states) an engineers certificate is required for registration if you increase displacement by more than 10%.

Question about this post:

what happens when my car is a Oct 91 CRX, and soon after gen3s have come out with the Vtecs and Hydraulic gearboxes? Does that mean that the only B16 i can get is from a Gen3? because SiRs were produced from 1989, and i have probably 1 in a million chance to find a B16A which is made in the last few months of gen2 production?
what happens here?!

[tinkerbell]

Question about this post:

what happens when my car is a Oct 91 CRX, and soon after gen3s have come out with the Vtecs and Hydraulic gearboxes? Does that mean that the only B16 i can get is from a Gen3? because SiRs were produced from 1989, and i have probably 1 in a million chance to find a B16A which is made in the last few months of gen2 production?
what happens here?!

how do you tell what year the B16A is mate?

they are all gen 1's, so you should be able to fit a gen 1 or newer...

[SiR JDM]

Question about this post:

what happens when my car is a Oct 91 CRX, and soon after gen3s have come out with the Vtecs and Hydraulic gearboxes? Does that mean that the only B16 i can get is from a Gen3? because SiRs were produced from 1989, and i have probably 1 in a million chance to find a B16A which is made in the last few months of gen2 production?
what happens here?!

The year of production is actually stamped onto the blocks, so even tho your model is a late in the year, as far as i understand it, you are able to use a block from that year... blocks have a year stamp only so there is no way to tell which month the block was produced.
Although it would probably be easier to use a Gen1 b16, a Gen2 is still a viable option.

[SINISTR]

The year of production is actually stamped onto the blocks, so even tho your model is a late in the year, as far as i understand it, you are able to use a block from that year... blocks have a year stamp only so there is no way to tell which month the block was produced.
Although it would probably be easier to use a Gen1 b16, a Gen2 is still a viable option.

But buying a B16 or a halfcut, i cannot always check the year until I have it sitting in my garage. I would think that it should be permitted to swap within thesame generation. So i could get an SiR for example even if its a 89 model.

B16A2 is a viable option, however the cost of installation and mucking around if done at home will increase massively, Hudraulic clutch being one thing and the OBD2 vs OBD0 harness - everything would have to be ripped out and reinstalled.

I wonder if the workshops check what they are installing?

[SiR JDM]

But buying a B16 or a halfcut, i cannot always check the year until I have it sitting in my garage. I would think that it should be permitted to swap within thesame generation. So i could get an SiR for example even if its a 89 model.

I agree entirely, it makes it very complicated, similarly for those who buy say a 92/93 EG SIR 1/2 cut and put it into their 95 VTi, for example.

My chassis is a 92 (91 build), and my engine is *apparently* a 94. But thats just from word of mouth of guy i purchased it off.

Alot of the time because it would come in a 1/2 cut, there should be history..
The way I see it is you have two options
1 - Wait for an engine that you KNOW the year/make of
2 - Find and engine of the same generation and take the risk <-- Im sure its been done before!

B16A2 is a viable option, however the cost of installation and mucking around if done at home will increase massively, Hudraulic clutch being one thing and the OBD2 vs OBD0 harness - everything would have to be ripped out and reinstalled.

That is also very true.
Ive also heard of clearance issues with the ED/EF chassis and b series headers.

I wonder if the workshops check what they are installing?

That would really depend on the workshop. I know a very well known honda specific mechanic told me a engineerers report isn't necessary.

I think most mechanics wouldn't be troubled by it. Its not their responcibility, plus they may assume the car is for non road use (such as track use) which in that case does not have to follow any vicroads (or RTA) standards.

[tinkerbell]

The year of production is actually stamped onto the blocks,

on the block? this is indeed news to me!!!! where?

or do you mean on the head?

[SiR JDM]

on the block? this is indeed news to me!!!! where?

or do you mean on the head?

My bad! Sorry its very hot here havn't been thinking well all day.
Yes i ment the head!
For those that dont know where to check, here is a pic of mine with the numbers erased.

Each *x* is a number that will tell you the production date of the head

[spetz]

B16A FAQ
Legallity

Before jumping straight into your swap, there are a couple of things to note.

In Australia it is illegal to fit an engine that is older than the chassis
Ie. The Motor must be same year of manufacture (or newer) as your chassis.

In Victoria (not sure about other states) an engineers certificate is required for registration if you increase displacement by more than 10%.

I have an engine older than my car and it's engineered and legally registered with the engine???

[panda[cRx]]

http://www.hasport.com - Does not have ½ cuts, but list various b-series swap parts; such as Mounts, Wiring, Headers, Shift linkages etc..

you will find hasport won't ship to aus, they will direct you to full-race.com
http://www.full-race.com/catalog/ind...07742fc3272641

[tinkerbell]

"hydraulic"

and have you said anywhere that you cant swap a gen 1 B16A into an EG with any great ease?