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  1. #1
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Ippy
    Car:
    EM1

    Crunching gears - Synchro Questions

    Hi all,
    My EM1 box has just started crunching when changing from 2nd to 3rd. It's fine when I double clutch or am shifting down from 4th.
    Just wanted to know how hard is this to fix and what's involved? Do I have to pull the whole box apart?
    FOR SALE: Injector seal kits || Dayco B16A timing belt

  2. #2
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    eg h22, odyssey
    try changing gearbox fluid first

  3. #3
    As above, try a lightweight box oil

    VMX80 works well in tired nissan/toyota Boxes.

    You could also add a tube or two of Nulon G70 to your box with fresh fluid.

  4. #4
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    JDM PARTS BRISBANE
    Car:
    EURO LUX
    Quote Originally Posted by I heart the SSS View Post
    As above, try a lightweight box oil

    VMX80 works well in tired nissan/toyota Boxes.

    You could also add a tube or two of Nulon G70 to your box with fresh fluid.

    probraly diff weight justin
    hondas rev a bit more so they need a bit more protection
    check out my eg6 thread
    i had to change my gears
    shows you whats involved

  5. #5
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Garage
    We used VMX80 in all our gearbox's, even for racing! Very good quality oil

    Heaps better than OEM

  6. #6
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Ippy
    Car:
    EM1
    thnx but no thnx guys.
    box fluid was changed not long ago and i'm not after a temp fix.
    maybe if it was a gradual thing i could stretch it out but it came on suddenly, like one day the box was flawless and the next day 3rd is fked on up-shifts.
    FOR SALE: Injector seal kits || Dayco B16A timing belt

  7. #7
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    delsol crx
    *Change your gearbox oil (Castrol VMX80 is good.. its cheap too)
    *bleed your clutch...

    Expensive but propper fix would be to pull the gearbox out and apart and rebuild it...

  8. #8
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Garage
    Go to Castrol Syntrax

    Doesnt hurt trying! Can always reuse the fluid later on

  9. #9
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Templestowe
    Car:
    90 EF8 siR
    none of the suggestions will work, it will only be a band-aid fix, until it screws up again, my advice is rebuild the box

  10. #10
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Ippy
    Car:
    EM1
    thanks everyone
    i'll do the fluid for now anyway and see if that helps until i can rebuild the box

    2 more questions:
    any idea what parts would be required? or would that need to be worked out when the box is apart?
    and is there anything i should upgrade while the box is out? (possibly looking to boost it in the future)
    Last edited by kraiye; 08-08-2009 at 07:33 PM.
    FOR SALE: Injector seal kits || Dayco B16A timing belt

  11. #11
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    CT9A
    changing @ low rev or high revs?

    Most likely worn synros. I would replace bearings and seals. Upgrade to a 4.7 or 4.9FD.

  12. #12
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Manly Yo
    Car:
    ED/EG5/EP3/JAZZ
    I've tried all the diff oils and even automatic oil

    Nothing works that well but half OEM and automatic oil seems to be OK.

    Only really crunches down from fourth to third but not to bad going up gears..

    One thing though

    At the Creek last week hit'n it hard not one crunch changing at high RPMs \

    What's with that?
    161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
    EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO

    13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001

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