Wideband + factory O2 Sensor ?

[Sexc86]

Gday Guys,

Currently i the process of setting up a Wide band O2 Sensor + Gauge. This might sound stupid but do i still need to install the factory O2 sensor? or can i make this redundant?

Regards Lyle

[fatboyz39]

You still need the factory 02 sensor.

[Chr1s]

No you don't.

You can use the narrowband output from your wideband controller if you have the option.

The TechEdge unit that was my old one that's in your car Jimmy can do it. The Innovative LC-1 can do it and so can most other known brands.

[Sexc86]

Yes i noticed the Lc1 includes a 2 analogue outputs. 1 for the gauge... and the second one wired into the hondata

[Sexc86]

6. Optionally, the YELLOW (Analog out 1) and/or BROWN (Analog out 2) can be connected to the analog inputs of other devices such as data loggers, ECUs, or gauges. If either one or both of these wires are not being used isolate and tape the wire(s) out of the way. The default analog outputs are as follows: Analog output one is 1.1V = 14 AFR and .1V = 15 AFR. This is a simulated narrowband signal. Analog output two is setup as 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39 AFR. Note: The LC-1’s heater ground and system ground wires should share the same grounding location of the analog input’s ground. Refer to chapter 2.2 for recommended wiring schematics.

7. Optionally connect a momentary push-button switch between ground and the BLACK calibration wire. Please refer to section 2.1. Note: The use of the calibration wire is not necessary if the LC-1 is connected to Innovate Motorsports’ XD-16 digital gauge. If the wire is not are not being used, isolate and tape the wire out of the way.
- 5 -

8. Optionally connect a indication LED (1.2-2.2V, 1-30mA is recommended) between the calibration wire and ground. Please refer to section 2.1

2.1 Indicator LED and Calibration button hookup:The LED will communicate the LC-1’s status. To monitor LC-1 status, connect the red wire (Anode) of the included LED to the calibration wire (black) of the LC-1 and connect the black wire (Cathode) of the LED to the ground wire of the momentary switch. The grounds to both the cathode side of the LED and the Push button should be connected with the Heater ground.



a. Note: The included LED will fit the following hole size and panel thickness: a 5/32” (0.155” - 0.158”) hole size and a panel thickness of 28–16gauge (0.031” - 0.062”).
b. Optionally, any 1.2V - 2.2V (1mA- 30mA) LED may be used. A typical LED has 2 wires called Anode and Cathode. The Cathode side is typically the shorter of the 2wires or the black wire. Pressing the push-button or connecting the black wire to ground (a three second press is required with firmware version 1.10) starts a free air calibration process in the LC-1. MAKE SURETHE SENSOR IS IN FREE AIR FOR THAT. See chapter 4 for details.See Appendix B for LED status codes.

- 6 -
2.2 Connecting the LC-1 to an ECU or data logger
All Innovate MTS devices like the LC-1 with dual serial ports should have their system grounds connected together to a common ground point. If an external data logger or ECU is to be fed by an MTS device, the MTS ground should be located at or near the ECU or data logger’s input signal ground. Some ECU’s or data loggers have differential inputs. A differential input has a separate ground INPUT for each sensor input. This ground input MUST be connected also to ground as shown in these diagrams. If one analog output of the LC-1 is used to drive an AFR display and the other output is used to connect to an ECU, the AFR display ground should be connected to the ECU ground. The schematics below can also adapted for 7-wire LC-1s. Simply wire the Green analog ground wire with the System ground.

[Sexc86]

Also Guys,

In regards to the calibration Switch and the indication LED. It Seems that both the Instructions and the Diagrams contradict each other. By looking at the switch on the Diagram it looks as if its a Normall Open Push button switch. It seems in the diagram that the LED is connect in parallel with the Switch - Which for me i cannot see working, (the LED will always stay illuminated until you press the Switch).

I have got it wired in series. Goes through the LED and will earth out / illumuniate when you press the calibration Pushbutton. But if i have done it this way will the sensor get an innaccurate Ground reference for its Zero calibration ? (due to a voltage drop over the LED)

Which way is accurate?

Method A - Switch / LED wired in parallel - Led is always on and turns off when you press the push button
Method B - Switch / LED wired in Series - Led is always Off and turns on when you press the Push Button