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im not sure, will check when i whip a wheel off after work tomorrow when im giving the car a go over.
none of them say how deep they are.
some kids garage
A true car enthusiast appreciates the time, effort and money put into ANY sort of car, modified in ANY sort of style, whether they may like it or not.
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worst case you could a fitter and turner to turn you some custom aluminum ones. They will however cost more than off the shelf plastic ones.
You may have to though, that step doesn't look overly deep
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my mate is an apprentice fitter & turner and he said hed make some for me
i might grab those 76mm ones and see how they go.
some kids garage
A true car enthusiast appreciates the time, effort and money put into ANY sort of car, modified in ANY sort of style, whether they may like it or not.
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measured a wheel at 76.5, the lip was about 5.5ml
some kids garage
A true car enthusiast appreciates the time, effort and money put into ANY sort of car, modified in ANY sort of style, whether they may like it or not.
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you will need custom ones, with that lip only being 5.5mm standard ones wont work.
do you know any stores in AUS that sell new volk rims? if there is you could always ask what hubrings (if any) they usually recommend. definitely a pain in the ass though.
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I've read on different forums that hub rings should be used when using aftermarket wheels witha larger center bore, however I also know of many drivers who regularly track their cars with aftermarket wheels and dont use hub rings at all. Myself, would rather purchase hub rings as its a small insurance to make sure the wheel is tightly secured at an even proportion to all studs.
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these are the first aftermarket wheels ive had that have had a bigger centre bore than my stock hub. gonna be getting a mate to make me some as he is an apprentice fitter & turner
some kids garage
A true car enthusiast appreciates the time, effort and money put into ANY sort of car, modified in ANY sort of style, whether they may like it or not.
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I bought some generic hub rings from ozzy tires.
there were two sizes, the bigger one was too big, the smaller one was too small.
I just got the closest one and forced it in. they are plastic and will expand/contract with heat/cold.
Even though i hads to use a little bit of force to getthem in, i think they will suffice.
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well thats even better if you have to force it in.. means it will sit very flush which is what you want in hub rings. Sometimes it may just be the dirt or whateva inside rims.. a light sanding will clean it up.
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Stamford helped me out with my hub rings.
I don't think they carry a huge range though, nor do the normally do retail.
Best bet is mail order
http://www.stamfordtyres.com.au/
Nick.
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Just got new wheels. car seems to drive fine on the motorway at 110kph or faster. There are no bad vibrations. Should I still get hub rings within the new few days?
A BB6 Prelude has a 64.1 bore I think...My wheels have a bore of 72.62..
Would Bobjane/JaxQuickFit order them and do you know what the prices would be like for a set of 4? I might give em a visit next Mon/Tue...
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I wouldn't tell anyone outright to not use hubcentric rings with aftermarket wheels but I have never had any issues with non hubcentric wheels all the way to 200km/h and above. No vibrations, nothing. I always use a torque wrench and tighten my wheel nuts in stages ensuring the wheel ends up centred on the hub. If however you are someone that doesn't pay attention to tightening their wheel nuts correctly then it is probably a good idea to have hubcentric wheels/rings as extra insurance. They are not essential and not using them does not present a safety issue as long as one is careful.
Also anyone that states that the load resting only on the studs is unsafe is honestly an idiot. It is a massive fallacy that wheels must be hubcentric in order to transfer suspension loads directly from the ewheel centreborre to the hub spigot. There should be no load in shear on the wheel studs when the nuts are properly torqued in a star pattern and the wheel is centred on the hub, this is because all the load from wheel to hub is transferred in the frictional interface between the back of the wheel hub and the hub/rotor face. All the studs/nuts do is clamp the wheel to the hub surface so that this friction is sufficient to transfer all the load from wheel/tyre to the hub/suspension.
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