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  1. #1
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    asian town
    Car:
    EK4, DC2R, EE3

    Unhappy Oil leak: rear main seal

    Hey guys,

    i've got a dilema on a vehile that has an oil leak in the rear main seal, was told by a mechanic that, that was the case.
    The car is going to be driven from sydney to melbourne which is quite a long drive, what are the dangers am I going to face and would it be a major concern for the trip?
    i've done a bit of research on it and it seems that it cost quite a bit due to the labour work.
    I've got friends who are mechanics that'll work on it for me for a low price down here in Melbourne so its in my best interest to get it back here.

    any help would be appreciated! thanks!

    (its an old honda civic just to put it out)
    MY EK4 CHET ROI
    BUT MY DC2R CAME
    ARRIVE ALIVE

  2. #2
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Front yard
    Car:
    4WD 89 Concerto
    is it leaking a fair bit? it should be right for the trip as long as you carry some extra oil with you.
    OEM parts whore

  3. #3
    If you're topping up your oil everyday then no.

    If you're only topping up every week then you'll make it, just carry extra oil with you.

  4. #4
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    Corolla AE92
    It's labour intensive as the gearbox has to come off to get to get to the rear main seal, that's why if you're going to do a clutch/flywheel change then you may as well do the RMS as while the components are out.

  5. #5
    Whenever you do a rear main, make sure you check the clutch plate for contamination. Oil = dead clutch.

    Other than that note. Just keep an eye on oil level and the pressure, you should be fine. =D

  6. #6
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    380GT,XTrailSTR
    As ae092 said. May as well wait it out and get clutch/flywheel done at same time if its a slow leak.

    Your looking at minimum $350 in labour cost just for gearbox off.

    The main seal is on the engine side behind flywheel. $20 part from honda dealership

    Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by Slow96GSR
    If 1 person has had bad luck with a product don’t condemn it until you yourself have tested it. Now if 10 pros have tried it and it sucked then I would trust their opinion.

  7. #7
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    380GT,XTrailSTR
    Also this rarely gets changed or looked at by your average mechs... You have to tell them to change it when you get gb work done. May as well for $20.

    Same reason you get your waterpump done for the sake of it when you change timing belt... and tensioner too... But at least this area is widely acknowledged and comes in a kit together

    Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by Slow96GSR
    If 1 person has had bad luck with a product don’t condemn it until you yourself have tested it. Now if 10 pros have tried it and it sucked then I would trust their opinion.

  8. #8
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    Corolla AE92
    Quote Originally Posted by dsp26 View Post
    Also this rarely gets changed or looked at by your average mechs... You have to tell them to change it when you get gb work done. May as well for $20.

    Same reason you get your waterpump done for the sake of it when you change timing belt... and tensioner too... But at least this area is widely acknowledged and comes in a kit together

    Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk
    Pretty much exactly what I did; changed water pump and tensioner (and all the ancillary belts) when I had the new Timing Belt go on.

    Oh yeh, I've driven interstate (ADL) with near dead valve stem seals, it chewed through 2L of oil but a refill half way and it was good to go, kinda lol

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