-
Agreed with Tiksie!
Can be done by hand and still look schmick! Good work mate!
-
good job! lip looked pretty good! ive used a number of well known paints and wasnt happy with the outcome through a can. but someone has turned me on to a marine paint which apparently is the best so i might give it a go
-
Great.....I will do it for my front lip as well !!!
-
DIY updated
Now complete! yipee
-
did you have a regulator on the air line?
-
I'd like to make a couple of comments.
Firstly, there are two types of filler, what has been referred to generically as "bog".
Acrylic friendly filler (is polyester based and sometimes called "Bondo" or "Bog") and 2Pac friendly filler (referred to as "Nikki").
Nikki (a resin based product)
Bog (polyester based)
2Pac filler can be applied over existing paint. This makes it easier to use because you don't have as much sanding to do. On the other hand, Acrylic filler must only be applied over bare metal - that's what it is meant to adhere to. It is more work but the trade off is that it is cheaper than 2Pac filler. If you apply Acrylic filler over existing paint (whether it be Acrylic or 2Pac) you will have trouble later on down the line (could be 12 months or more). Nikki is also much lighter and should be used in applications where weight is a consideration - like on a racecar repair. Anyone doing this sort of work needs to be aware of all this.
Filler should be mixed on a flat surface like a sheet of glass but you can buy purpose-made "onionboard" which has tear-off sheets that you discard once you are finished. No clean-up required.
Secondly, you can sand and fill a blemish using coarse paper then go up to about 320 grit. The trick now is the apply spray putty in a couple of coats, then sand, then apply primer. This is easier than using multiple papers to get a smooth finish.
You should, as was suggested, then sand using the black guide coat method, with a flat sanding implement (not your hand or palm). If you have black patches left you need to concentrate on those areas as they are "low". Conversely, if you have bare patches (all the guide guide and undercoat is gone) then you have "high" spots. This part of the job will make or break your finish!
On larger panels you can implement "blending" so that you don't have to do the whole panel. I won't go into that here.
You can use Multi Purpose Thinners for undercoats, spray putty doesn't need to be thinned. Always use "Acrylic Thinners" for top coats as you will get a better shine. Although, ultimate shine is down to how well you adhere to the thinning mix. Too much thinners and you're paint will be dull and dry; too little and you get massive "orange peel".
I've just re-read the opening OP post and it mentions 2Pac. Never, I repeat, never spray 2Pac in your back yard. For starters it's illegal, and secondly, you run the risk of permanent damage to your health (esp. your nervous system) if you inhale it or even let it get on your skin as it will soak into your pores and even your tear ducts. If you do this, and you find yourself "weeping" from the eyes a couple of days later, you have yourself trouble. Not necessarily now, but maybe in 5 - 10 years as 2PAc contains poisons detrimental to your health. DON'T DO IT. EVER. It's not worth it. You need a full face respirator mask, full protective clothing and a water-based filtration system like under the floor in a spray booth. Releasing 2Pac to the atmosphere does more to kill the ozone layer than car exhaust fumes.
Also, you should avoid wiping down your panel with a wet or damp rag. Filler will absorb the moisture, which will soak to the bottom of the fill. That's why you see cracking paint on cars in areas that have obviously been filled. The correct procedure is to use Wax & Grease Remover - it dries quickly in the air. Wipe off with one clean rag with a bit of W&GR, then wipe off with a dry clean cloth. Old singlets are good for this - some T shirt material leaves lint.
One last thing. Don't sand filler with a wet sandpaper. Same reason as above.
Anyone who wants to learn how to do this correctly, call VG Auto Paints in Girraween or go to their website and sign up for the FREE (yes, free) Saturday morning courses which are very hands-on. I buy my supplies from there but I'm not affiliated with them in any way. They also have giveaways and a free BBQ afterwards. You can't go wrong.
Peter
Last edited by jdm_b16a; 30-03-2011 at 06:04 PM.
Still here. Still kickin'
-
+1 for VG.
Good post Peter
JDM D15B - you wouldn't understand
No K-SWAP ? No worries - Unfriend
-
thanks mate for the info! I failed to mention a couple of things. Precautions should be taken when spraying any paint. I of course used full protection when spraying the 2pak paint in the shed, done it with the help of a proffessional and he gave me the whole speech on how lethal paint is. I will try to be more descriptive and informative on future posts. Thanks again Peter.
-
Originally Posted by Red_EG4
did you have a regulator on the air line?
yeah mate, i used a regulator
-
Originally Posted by tiksie
When you do it on plastic, remember that you need a different type of filler, they have plastic fillers aswell.
cheers for that bro
無限 The Form is in the Function 無限
teamGROUNDzero
-
hmmm.... what type of paint did you use?
is it just the ones that you can buy from super cheap? does it turn out that glossy? because i want to paint the interior of my car with a glossy black.
-
i cant remember. you shouldnt be using that paint for interior though. use a plastics primer and maybe a vht interior paint
Tags for this Thread
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|
Bookmarks