K20a Knocking..... then dissapeared??

[cazz]

Hi, i have an issue with my built K20a in my integra which happened 6months ago and then again 3weeks ago... First time, i took off from a set of lights normally then decided to hit the gas WOT shifted at 8 grand into second shifted at 8 again and then into 3rd and 4th normally.. as i pulled over in front of my mate's house i put it into Neutral and thats when it stalled on me... i thought that was pretty odd.. So i kicked it over again once i was parked. i turned the key and it didnt start until i gave it some gas once i did that, thats when the knocking sound started coming from the engine bay.

it was very noticeable on idle knocking consistantly, if i gave it a few revs it would get faster and louder with the rpms, i didnt rev it passed 3grand and it wouldnt go away so i turned it off, only had it running like that for no more than 3mins. Towed it to my mechanic's he thought the bottom end let go.. That was until he drained the oil and put fresh honda oil in and replaced the filter.. Kicked it over and the noise was gone completely! He told me it needed valve adjustment as it was way out so he fixed that and then I drove it normally, gassed it again and it was fine all the way up the rev range and has been for the passed 6months until it happened again a few weeks ago, raced an xr8 and only got into 4th then backed off, as i came to a set of lights it was idling really low and the knocking sound came back, i drove it for no more than 5mins changing gears at 3000rpm each time and by the time i got into 4th it was gone again. Even though my mechanic didnt mention it, to me it sounds like the the stock chain tensioner isnt doing a very good job and could be failing, especially since i have aftermarket cams.. also has forged pistons and acl race bearings. I just dont know what im up against?? it idles perfectly and drives normally everyday since the oil got changed, its only when i get on it hard SOMETIMES after a 8000rpm shift is when the noise came back. Surely its not the bottom end, otherwise it would have let go ages ago? or is it? i havnt done a compression test yet, but any help much appreciated.

[WATAJK]

Hi, i have an issue with my built K20a in my integra which happened 6months ago and then again 3weeks ago... First time, i took off from a set of lights normally then decided to hit the gas WOT shifted at 8 grand into second shifted at 8 again and then into 3rd and 4th normally.. as i pulled over in front of my mate's house i put it into Neutral and thats when it stalled on me... i thought that was pretty odd.. So i kicked it over again once i was parked. i turned the key and it didnt start until i gave it some gas once i did that, thats when the knocking sound started coming from the engine bay.

it was very noticeable on idle knocking consistantly, if i gave it a few revs it would get faster and louder with the rpms, i didnt rev it passed 3grand and it wouldnt go away so i turned it off, only had it running like that for no more than 3mins. Towed it to my mechanic's he thought the bottom end let go.. That was until he drained the oil and put fresh honda oil in and replaced the filter.. Kicked it over and the noise was gone completely! He told me it needed valve adjustment as it was way out so he fixed that and then I drove it normally, gassed it again and it was fine all the way up the rev range and has been for the passed 6months until it happened again a few weeks ago, raced an xr8 and only got into 4th then backed off, as i came to a set of lights it was idling really low and the knocking sound came back, i drove it for no more than 5mins changing gears at 3000rpm each time and by the time i got into 4th it was gone again. Even though my mechanic didnt mention it, to me it sounds like the the stock chain tensioner isnt doing a very good job and could be failing, especially since i have aftermarket cams.. also has forged pistons and acl race bearings. I just dont know what im up against?? it idles perfectly and drives normally everyday since the oil got changed, its only when i get on it hard SOMETIMES after a 8000rpm shift is when the noise came back. Surely its not the bottom end, otherwise it would have let go ages ago? or is it? i havnt done a compression test yet, but any help much appreciated.

OEM Tensioner & chain still im assuming?
How much you running at the wheels up front?
Car tuned? By who? Built by who?
Could be possible that due to very low oil that you MAY of spun a bearing, bent a valve/rod... possible....
But lets get the other facts right first

All these questions need to be answered before we can help dude =)

[IEVAQ8]

To the OP...
go and get urself an aftermarket timing chain tentioner b4 ur up for a new rebuild...

[cazz]

OEM Tensioner & chain still im assuming?
How much you running at the wheels up front?
Car tuned? By who? Built by who?
Could be possible that due to very low oil that you MAY of spun a bearing, bent a valve/rod... possible....
But lets get the other facts right first

All these questions need to be answered before we can help dude =)

Ok the engine is only a year old has done no more than 20k on it, built by power tune in sydney makes 140 at the treads, and yes its tuned, could not have been from lack of oil as it was perfectly full with clean oil in it to begin with. Yep also oem tensioner and chain. Im thinking about buying the Toda tensioner soon..

[Mattski_VTIR]

Ok the engine is only a year old has done no more than 20k on it, built by power tune in sydney makes 140 at the treads, and yes its tuned, could not have been from lack of oil as it was perfectly full with clean oil in it to begin with. Yep also oem tensioner and chain. Im thinking about buying the Toda tensioner soon..

This would be a good idea to replace the chain tensioner, also have a look into cam tower number 5 lubrication issues. The guys in the states have made a mod kit for, more so with after market cams and springs, as the oil is supplied through cam tower number 2 as standard, number 5 lacks pressure at idle and low rpm. Blueprint racing and hytech do a complete kit, you send them your cam tower and they send you the modified one. I will be doing this for sure when i assemble my motor. check out this link, very interesting for anyone building a tough k series - http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthr...wer-oiling-mod.

[munkaii]

What oil are you running the car with? Bearings may be partially shot but mechanic may have used a thicker oil to compensate?

From what I understand, OEM chain tensioner is a must in terms of upgrade, especially if you're using aftermarket cams + pushing out any decent sort of power.

[u mad?]

140 for a built k20?

[cazz]

What oil are you running the car with? Bearings may be partially shot but mechanic may have used a thicker oil to compensate?

From what I understand, OEM chain tensioner is a must in terms of upgrade, especially if you're using aftermarket cams + pushing out any decent sort of power.

Im running Halvoline premium plus 10w 30, Im looking into the TODA tensioner it looks like it might be the way to go.

[cazz]

140 for a built k20?

it only has stage 1 cams..

[trism]

i dunno about halvoline. Its a bargain bin type of oil.

Run something better in it, like motul, royal purple, penrite, shell helix.

A fully synthetic oil, about the same weight youre running in it now.

That havoline shit wouldnt be stable enough for high revs, its designed for commuter spec cars.

[WATAJK]

Ok the engine is only a year old has done no more than 20k on it, built by power tune in sydney makes 140 at the treads, and yes its tuned, could not have been from lack of oil as it was perfectly full with clean oil in it to begin with. Yep also oem tensioner and chain. Im thinking about buying the Toda tensioner soon..

Would have to agree with IEVAQ8
You need an aftermarket tensioner and chain asap...
If the problem is still occuring then let us know.