06 Euro Sport Beginners advice

[Fredoops]

Without I/H/E and other supporting mods, there is not much point in lowering the vtec point.

The CU2 has a lower vtec point because it has 2-lobe vtec camshaft instead of 3-lobe like the CL9. Hence at the vtec point, it is a smooth transition to extend the torque curve, unlike the CL9 where it gets a tiny bump.

Isn't USDM Acura TSX's uses different sort of camshaft head thingy than the Honda Euro's?

[integral90]

Don't mess around with intake or exhaust. If you want a bit more push down low in all gears then get a lighter flywheel. The stock K24a3 one is very heavy (around 9kg)

[integral90]

Isn't USDM Acura TSX's uses different sort of camshaft head thingy than the Honda Euro's?

The 06+ TSX has a considerably revised K24. Different camshafts, oversized inlet valves. Bigger throttle body and intake manifold. Balanced crank and revised exhaust

[Fredoops]

Don't mess around with intake or exhaust. If you want a bit more push down low in all gears then get a lighter flywheel. The stock K24a3 one is very heavy (around 9kg)

Honda auto granny's got a flywheel? Really?

[integral90]

My bad - didn't see the auto part.

Depending on which intake you do, you might sacrafice some low end torque for top end power. The best thing to do would be a smaller-collector sports header with a high-flow cat. The easiest way to get some straight line speed without actually touching the engine is to do lighter wheels. If you can save 1kg on each wheel it's equivalent to removing around 30kg of unsprung weight.

[aaronng]

Isn't USDM Acura TSX's uses different sort of camshaft head thingy than the Honda Euro's?

Same i-VTEC system, just different camshaft profiles and different port size for the later model CL9. The CU2 has the same everything except ECU.

[integral90]

Never mind, mis-read again :P