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Thread: H22A or B18C?

  1. #25
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    Around 5k on just the engine and install. With engine upgrades I don't want to say anything :P cause knowing me I'll blow whatever I calculated right out of the water haha. @jeremydawg I doubt I'll get the H22 S. A bit pricey, I already found a H22A2 with 80k on the dial for $1350. The only reason I would get the H22 is because of the torque in the first place, but I am kind of doubting I really need so much torque in such a light car (1132kg roughly). Kinda leaning towards the B18C, also I'm worried about clearance issues. I don't wan to have to COMPLETELY butcher my car.

  2. #26
    yea as said, the h22 is only about 20kg heavier, its fools like that who always say its heavier, everyone thinks its a billion kg heavier.

    1. someone said worked b18 > h22? wtf? im pretty sure u can source out a h22a cheaper than a b18c, and all the money ur going to "work" on the b18, spend it on the h22a? will you not have a better outcome?


    EVERYTIME a h22a thread comes up, these are the two most ALWAYS talked about, cause everyone jsut assumes
    1. its 5000kg heavier than a b18
    2. its gunna sit on a 45 degree angle and there is nothing that can prevent/lessen it.

    the only hold back imo is the gearbox, as said its LONG. so as usualy ppl will tend to get the adapter plate or whatever and stick a b=series gearbox on. otherwise just buy new gear ratios

    idk, why r u opting for a b18c? who said its going to be any easier? and plus the engines gunna cost you on top 2-3k, unless u get an AUDM (c7) maybe just about 2, and if u get a c2.. dont even bother. not worth the conversion if u can do better.

    the only real reason why i would opt for a b18c or b18c7 is mainly for its gearbox and LSD.

    you could get ab18c2 with a s80 gearbox, but ah, ud rather have started off with a h22a then get a s80 box........... imo, start looking around and asking ppl who've done the conversion in their accord (if any) , try US websites sohuld give u better info than a lot of the guys here who just spit out information they've read before without any concrete proof, otherwise just talking shit

    AND i dont know if u can put an engine in with a smaller displacement than original
    Last edited by MWAKU; 13-05-2011 at 02:24 AM.
    FS: BMW E60 04' 530i

  3. #27

  4. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by trism View Post
    lol, go fcuk your mother.

    nothing is worse than people who say "sell and buy a better base car"

    whats the point of modding cars if everyone takes the easy way and does this?
    relax man, i was just stating what i'd do in his situation.

    everybody so fukin agro on this forum

  5. #29
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    Does a h22 sit further forward and on an angle or is it an illusion? Even though it's only 20kg heavier, being further forward makes cars crap to drive. I have a b18 and even so I've removed air con and planning to remove ps and battery in boot. Weight on the front wheels is bad. Weight in front of the front wheels is really bad. Not to mention my axle question from earlier, no point having all that torque if you can't put it down

  6. #30
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    thanks for the thread link! really helpful.
    you're a wiseman MWAKU, pretty sure you have convinced me for the H22 haha. thanks for all the help guys

  7. #31
    very knowleageable and good advice from mwaku!!
    DEEFUFF 4LYF

  8. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by mugen_ctr View Post
    umm i doubt he would go K24 Turbo, seems hell lot of dough to spend, and alot of customizing, definate go B18 turbo, simply cause theres heaps of aftermarket gear out there already, prefabbed turbo kits, and its been proven to work, 180 - 250kw easy.....

    H22a on the other hand, displacement = torque, but on a FWD, torque steer like a mofo..... especially if ur running more than 200kw an pushing more than 350nm torque
    No joke, that's close to the worst advice i've ever read. Lol =)
    Torque steer has NOTHING to do with the Torque/HP Ratio of a motor.
    Torque steer eventuates because of the "Torsion" (rotational stress) force imposed on the drivetrain.

    Honda solved the "Torque Steer" problems that plagues most FWDs with their Transaxle system.. Note the CVs are the same length? And a very solid Transaxle bridges the gap to the Gearbox
    I don't know if all Hondas use this system, but anything with an F or H series motor sure does.. And most Mazda's do also.

    Aftermarket support is no question, you shouldn't be buying any parts that aren't from the USA anyway.
    And there is a vast market for H and B series, more than you could ever hope to need.. Even my F22A has massive support from many places.

    Keep the B, for the price of putting the H in you could pull more power from the B anyway.

  9. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Omgeezus View Post
    well i was thinking around 220kw and daily driver. so i would want it to be pretty damn reliable :P
    220kw ... turbo b series or h series is more to your taste...imho extracting 220kw all motor way is possible but could cost alot more than the turbo for that figure... btw is that atw or at bay

    how bout b16 turbo with the works instead

  10. #34
    i doubt he means atw lol.

    as for 220kw...not gonna happen with your budget.
    Last edited by jeremydawg; 14-05-2011 at 12:50 PM.
    DEEFUFF 4LYF

  11. #35
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    "Around 5k on just the engine and install" h22a !
    Last edited by tripleuse; 20-05-2011 at 03:55 AM.

  12. #36
    A Hswap for 5k is very possible.
    DEEFUFF 4LYF

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