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  1. #49
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Car:
    Ek honda civic hatch

    Wink

    Was going to refit the stock cooler from my b16, but found the block had a male thread coming out of the block, so I was unable to reuse mine. Terry, my mechanic said that oil temps usually are lower then water temps. From that I figured that the stock oil cooler must be mostly to help warm the oil on start up. Which brings me to my next question.. Ideal oil temps?

    My sump already has extra capacity, but a cooler on a thermostat sounds like a really good idea. I will definitely look into those.

    So basically for the time being( break in) I'll be running without stock and aftermarket coolers.

  2. #50
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Queensland
    Car:
    EG Hatch
    It's just for drag racing isn't it?

    I don't see a huge need for an oil cooler unless you run into high oil temps on the street
    FIGJAM

  3. #51
    Ozhonda Supporter Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    MV Agusta F4
    Yep, oem water/oil heat exchanger does exactly that. Water heats up 1st, so helps the oil heat up when cold. And also helps keep oil temps down when your up to operating temps.

    Generally around the streets, normal driving, you'd see both water temps and oil temps 90-100 degrees. With a low temp water thermostat 80-90 degrees.

    Oil cooler not needed on the streets, only if you track (would help on dyno too). Only so much you can do on the street. Your generally driving normal on the street and you can only give full throttle applications through a couple of gears and thats it. Keep note though that oil temps will shoot up with prolonged load/boost/throttle.
    Last edited by DLO01; 26-06-2011 at 08:50 AM.
    Deano.

  4. #52
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Car:
    Ek honda civic hatch
    well im back from my two weeks working away, and i have taken rdo's for monday and tuesday.

    plan is.

    get to hi power at about 9am, get car checked over and turn engine over to get oil through everywhere and top up oil to propper level.

    start car and bed in rings on dyno for half an hour or so while putting a tune on the car.

    if all is good. i'll take the car and drive for 500km on break in oil before tuesday morning.

    take car back in on tuesday and put a limited revs and wastegate spring boost tune on it. which will be around 8psi maybe 8000rpm?

    so i'll let you guys know how i go.

    hope to get about 300hp on 8psi :P but who knows. lol i made that on 20psi on a gt2871r on my b16.

  5. #53
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Brisbane Queensland
    Car:
    1985 ford laser
    Sounds good mate.... hopefully wont be far behind you!
    Light up with Lyle - Electrical / Communications / Instrumentation

  6. #54
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Honda powered daihatsu
    300hp sounds rite i think. I did 390 with my darton sleeved and a tial housing 3076 on 18psi. Hopefully [your gate manifold setup hold 8psi consistant.
    If you build it, he will come.

  7. #55
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Car:
    Ek honda civic hatch
    Just got back from the mechanic. I now have a low cam 6000 rpm 8 psi tune to drive around on for about 5000km. The engine made 140kw. So it's looking alright. I'm continuing to have cooling issues that have carried over from my last setup that I will have to sort out before too long!

    I'll update when I get my next set of results.

  8. #56
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    Good good, sounds like it has plenty more potential once the cooling is settled and it's worn in a bit

  9. #57
    PS Check out OWEN MOTORSPORTS for some nice turbos

  10. #58
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Brisbane Queensland
    Car:
    1985 ford laser
    Updates mate?
    Light up with Lyle - Electrical / Communications / Instrumentation

  11. #59
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Car:
    lownslowsedan
    Niiice!! If you don't mind me asking, how much did the dart block cost you direct from america? I priced one up from rocket industries the other day, and it was close to 5k
    to see all of my build, checkout


  12. #60
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Car:
    Ek honda civic hatch
    Well at the moment I'm putting some km on the motor. I have 2000 to go so hopefully I'll knock that over in the next week or so. I'll aim to be on the dyno at the end of next week.

    The feel of the car to drive is great. Boost comes on a touch later then my b16 with gt2871 .63 rear combo. So overtaking is a just press the accelerator in whatever gear your in, kind of thing, and it'll pull hard

    On my quote for the whole engine I believe it said about 1800 us$ for the block, but after that, it has cleaning up, welding, machining, porting of water and oil galleries etc. So it's not good to go as soon as you get it.



    Oh, cooling sorted. Fixed some of the wiring loom, now the computer turns on the fan as well as the switch on the thermostat!

    Apparently all hondas have terrible wiring looms. People must feel the need to hack Honda looms themselves to add there electronic goodies. oh well

    Cya
    Last edited by Scholzey; 20-07-2011 at 03:00 PM.

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