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Thread: H22A into EM1

  1. #13
    ^true blue, just throwing ideas around. Ofcourse he will have to do his own solid research.

    Best option would be to go to a specialist and tell him what youve been thinking of doing and he will provide you with proffesional advise on what you can do.
    DEEFUFF 4LYF

  2. #14
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Melbourne West
    Car:
    Yellow EG =D
    would need
    looms
    ecu
    mounts
    gearbox plate for conversion
    h2b headers
    WINTON PB - 1:48.9
    EG5 1.6L SOHC

  3. #15
    Banned Array
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Vaucluse NSW
    Car:
    EKB20 > EGB18C
    1.5k is piss weak for h2b

    like what that other person and benson said it will take more then that

    you cant slap a b series box to a h22a block.. wont work need the h2b kit and the labour will kill ya

  4. #16
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    Why don't you just do a B20? You'll need new mounts, conversion plate/parts for the H2B etc etc. I'm not saying B20 is so much cheaper or whatever but I don't think the H22A will be that much better than the B20VTEC.

    To me it just seems like a lot of hassle when you already have a B-series platform, complete with engine. Change the block, or get a B18C block and stroke that out to 2.1L (been done).


    I'd rather have the B20.

  5. #17
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    sydney
    Car:
    Legs
    honestly i think even doing a swap with a b18c7 will b enuf, if you get a half cut u will b able 2 make the most of it, the type R box is much beter then the b16's so u would be well off throwing that in. Plus a well built type R engine can produce sum decent numbers.

  6. #18
    or better yet drive it off a cliff and buy a r31 and drop a rb26 in it
    DEEFUFF 4LYF

  7. #19
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Understeer Town.
    Car:
    Land Barge
    LOL but then you'd be driving a HR31. Lame sauce.

    DR30 + FJ20 is where it's at.
    Econo Box pimping ain't easy.

  8. #20
    hellz yeah!!!

    one day imma do something like that... one day
    DEEFUFF 4LYF

  9. #21
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Car:
    97 lude VTiR/ 97 ek b18c
    lol make sure u jump out b4 u fall down the cliff otherwise u wont b drivin no car

  10. #22
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    ej coupe
    I just finished a h22a4 into eg hatch... much the same.. (and when i say "I", i mean I persoally did it) better option than b18 or b20.... cheaper too.... oh, and forget about h2b unless you're gonna hoon it around all the time (or do track work)... not worth the extra cost. H22a wins on torque alone. Other options can make same power, but the extra displacement wins just because of the extra torque...

    Need:
    engine, gb, shifter assembly and cables, ecu
    mounts (ebay)
    driveshafts (ebay or DIY, or buy the brand new ones i didnt end up using, lol)
    Conversion harness (makes wiring painless)
    thicker alloy radiator with slim thermo... will probably have to get creative mounting it
    access to google for when you get stuck.

  11. #23
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    WA
    Car:
    EG+CL9
    the best bang for buck mod a B16 owner can do is a B20 block conversion
    the B16 head already flows well - all it needs is displacement
    money well spent imo
    ----------------------------
    D15b Turbo EG Sedan Build + CL9 Lux N/A Build
    http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127680

  12. #24
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    Although admittedly you could sell your B16A and pretty much buy a H22A no worries, so it's probably cheaper or same price going H22A in hindsight (not H2b)

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