Personally 0 gauge is overkill. You can use it if you like but it la harder to work with and more expensive. What's the c/b for? I would have thought oem short circuit protection is fine?
Personally 0 gauge is overkill. You can use it if you like but it la harder to work with and more expensive. What's the c/b for? I would have thought oem short circuit protection is fine?
I actually spoke to an auto elec about this the other day. I'm an electrician too so I have an understanding of current carrying capacity of cables. But I'm just going off what he said. 0 gauge of course will work but you don't need such huge cable. My original batt location is next to firewall and planned location was right behind back seat on eg hatch so my volt drop would be less than most.
From an electricians perspective 0ga is so damn large and only used for pretty large applications. Not 1 or 2 seconds of start up current. Can anybody explain in further detail why 0ga is necessary?
I actually spoke to an auto elec about this the other day. I'm an electrician too so I have an understanding of current carrying capacity of cables. But I'm just going off what he said. 0 gauge of course will work but you don't need such huge cable. My original batt location is next to firewall and planned location was right behind back seat on eg hatch so my volt drop would be less than most.
From an electricians perspective 0ga is so damn large and only used for pretty large applications. Not 1 or 2 seconds of start up current. Can anybody explain in further detail why 0ga is necessary?
I don't think anyone will dispute the fact with you that, smaller cable will work.
In all honesty, I think even 8Ga will do the job. Even twisting 3 or 4 figure8 together will work. (don't do it)
I'm disputing that you call it overkill. Because for the amount of money doing a PROPER battery relocation, $10 - $15 extra for the best cable isn't going to hurt.
If smaller cable is totally adequate in every way then bigger cable is overkill IMO. Putting bigger cable would just be harder to run, terminate, hide and cost more for no gain at all. But I can see why some people just the biggest because they can
I actually spoke to an auto elec about this the other day. I'm an electrician too so I have an understanding of current carrying capacity of cables. But I'm just going off what he said. 0 gauge of course will work but you don't need such huge cable. My original batt location is next to firewall and planned location was right behind back seat on eg hatch so my volt drop would be less than most.
From an electricians perspective 0ga is so damn large and only used for pretty large applications. Not 1 or 2 seconds of start up current. Can anybody explain in further detail why 0ga is necessary?
Most of the time you only need the starter for 1 or 2 seconds but in the off chance you have a fuel problem, ignition problem etc that requies you to crank the car over for a longer period than normal then your better off having the constant power handling that the higher gauge cables give expecially when your using longer lengths of cable.
Heres a chart i found that helps illustrate that when you increase the cable length and constant power handleing requirement of the wire, the required gauge goes up quite quickly. http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...e_Speaker-Wire
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Originally Posted by crobaa
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