H23A + Mods + VAFC?

[Drew]

I have a H23A in a CH9 Accord which is very similar to the H22A

I'm looking at getting new cams, valve train, intake manifold, t/body and cam gears.

Will a VAFC2 be sufficient? Being that it is an automatic tranny I don't think any Hondata ECUs will work.

I was thinking a mix of BLOX Racing and Skunk2 (cam gears, valves, intake)

Are there better solutions for more power without going turbo (see auto tranny)?

[Jccck]

I have a H23A in a CH9 Accord which is very similar to the H22A

I'm looking at getting new cams, valve train, intake manifold, t/body and cam gears.

Will a VAFC2 be sufficient? Being that it is an automatic tranny I don't think any Hondata ECUs will work.

I was thinking a mix of BLOX Racing and Skunk2 (cam gears, valves, intake)

Are there better solutions for more power without going turbo (see auto tranny)?

H23A and H22A are yes, similar.. But the differences are the most important bits =)

Don't replace the Intake Manifold, the H23A Intake Mani is already amazing.. Money is better spent elsewhere.
BLOX makes a good Throttlebody! A very good one!
Skunk2 makes trash Cam Gears. AEM or Bisimoto is all i'd recommend.. I'd never buy a Skunk2 Product.

If you're going for Valves, Supertech do a great set of 1mm o/s Intake/Exhaust.
Talk to a head builder, see what he recommends.. That's the best bet! Because you're gonna need some machining work to fit those valves and get the most from those cams =)

When the head is worked, get it shaved for a slight increase in compression.. That'll net you a few more ponys.. But aside from a high compression rebuild with forgies.. You start to run out of options N/A

[dougie_504]

I also second Supertech for valve springs/retainers. Their R&D is extensive and therefore their products are excellent. I use them in my head-built B16A.

I also agree that Skunk2 cam gears aren't the best - I recently posted up some pictures of my friend's cam gear which had cracked on all of the spokes (an incident which we eventually found out was not unique). Instead I would suggest AEM, Crower etc.

For camshafts I have no idea but Crower, Skunk2, Buddyclub all seem to do a decent job if you can get your hands on them.

Consider enlarged intake/exhaust ports + matched manifolds. Valve grind job, re-welded combustion chambers can increase compression, and mill the head a little bit.


For the ECU situation I have no idea. I'd ask ECU-MAN and see what he suggests. Haven't seen anybody with more ECU knowledge than him.


Hope you have some cash handy!

[Jccck]

Agreed with the Crower CamGear+Cam!

You could also upgrade the ignition.. It's not much, but it's good for some gains in power and reliability at high rpms!
AEM V2 EMS (Solves your ECU issues too!) either run an MSD External Coil, or go all out for AEM Pencil Coils!

Some of this stuff can be a pain to find in Australia, just ship it all from the USA.. Cheaper anyways
Dougie is right about the cash lol

[Drew]

Would the AEM EMS V2 work with an automatic transmission? Keeping in mind it has to run with the stock ECU to keep the gears changing

Although their EPM CoP system looks interesting

[Jccck]

Would the AEM EMS V2 work with an automatic transmission? Keeping in mind it has to run with the stock ECU to keep the gears changing

Although their EPM CoP system looks interesting

It's a piggyback EMS, not a completely new ECU.. Right?
As far as i know, the EMS controls what the ECU can't.
And the EMS lets the ECU control what the ECU still can (After the EMS has it's say, so to speak)

So the Auto Box shouldn't cause any dramas i'm fairly sure (Do some research, shouldn't be hard to find the info)
Agreed! Indeed looks interesting.. I've never tinkered with one personally though (Yet)

[Drew]

Keen to get rid of the fugly distributor

I think the EMS is a replacement ECU where as the FIC is a piggy back

[TODA AU]

If you change the cams, shit-can the VAFC idea. If not, it's all good.
& if you do change the cams, do yourself a favour & use the valve springs the cam manufacturer recommends.Don't second guess this advice, it'll cost you HP & reliability.
Do not go & fit oversize valves, you'll go backwards.
Do not have some retard port your head & make the ports bigger, especially the exhaust, again you'll go backwards.

[shepparton]

Agreed with the Crower CamGear+Cam!

if u listen to ths guy advice!! you regret it

[safetycar]

Yeah, the F/IC is a piggyback. It along with the Greddy eManage Ultimate are as good as it gets if you must keep the stock ECU.
Would think you could also fit stock H22 pistons for a compression bump which would help with more aggressive cams.

[Jccck]

if u listen to ths guy advice!! you regret it

Did you just mock Crower, one of the most well known and respected manufacturers of aftermarket Valvetrain-related parts?
Oh yessss you did!

Yeah, the F/IC is a piggyback. It along with the Greddy eManage Ultimate are as good as it gets if you must keep the stock ECU.
Would think you could also fit stock H22 pistons for a compression bump which would help with more aggressive cams.

You've gotta decide on a power goal.. There's plenty of things you can do.. But you need to draw a line in terms of power and money at some point.

[Drew]

I'd rather keep the bottom end stock. The additional cost of parts and labor is just too much.

Hopefully TODA will come back with a recommendation as I'd be keen to get them to tune it too and probably build.