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Nice looking Euro before any mods...
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Thanks ! sadly some idiot reversed into my front so, some scars left behind and haven't had time to claim insurance.
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Lol nice one, DIY, I'm not sure y you have a hammer there but hey :-p
You might wanna add brake rotors to your mod list, eBay TSX rotors are good enough, I'm using it.
- also you might wanna have a look at Progress RSB, iirc it's cheaper than Whiteline and it's adjustable.
- and front strut bar! I got a el-cheapo eBay one lol and it look shiny and I swear I can tell the difference when turning ( and it make engine bay look pretty)
- also get WP-R header lol it's 1/2 the price of TOda and come with teat pipe to weld cat on lol.
And rims before body kit, otherwise they'll look lame with the stocky 16's!
2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars
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nice start, looking forward to seeing your car over the coming months
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Yeah thanks guy's !!
@Fredoops:
Haha the hammer was to pry the Air Resonator Tube off the Air Resonator Box because I was too lazy to use my own strength .
Ohhh I shall look into that! Thanks for the tip. I heard good things about the Whiteline and they arn't too expensive. What brand is progress country wise?
Hmmmm does the TODA have much better gains?????
Yes shall look into the rims soon as the exhaust should come in 2-3 weeks just in time for my monthly target!
@Phorist:
Thanks man
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Progress from US... But probably made in China like everything else.
TOda wil give you more gains but it cost 2x or 3x as much... And it won't produce 2x or 3G as much power, besides most of the gain would be from the hiflow cat.
Ps I got some HKS grounding wires and a voltage stabliZer in the ar as well to make it all pretty lol!
2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars
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Hmmm I might be able to get a Toda Header for $1000.... or maybe even a bit cheaper if I'm lucky...
I shall decide a bit later as that's a bit later down the track since my exhaust hasn't even been fitted yet.
Whats the HKS grounding wires and voltage stabilizer???? Ar??? don't know what that means LOL
Let's get this Hondata chip working
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Ar = there. iPhone fail..
I found the existing grounding wires in the car are all frayed, so I added the grounding wires to ensure the electronics are working top notch. Im planning to put a T1R lightened pulley in there (it's purple, same colour as my grounding wires) when my pulley belt dies, since the t1r pulley is k20 size (ie, 2-3mm smaller in diameter compared to the k24 pulley) i've put in voltage stablizers to counter act the possible miniscure underiving of the electrics.
Rmember the cost of the WP-R header includes a test pipe which you can weld the hi-flow cat to, not sure if the Toda come wih the same.
Anyway, here's what I planned to do to my automatic cl9 before I run outta money paying for some 'bills':
Exterior:
1. Lighter weight 17inch rims (less than 9kg each, which is weight of the stock 16 inch, remember, each kg saved on the rims/nuts = 5-10kg save on the body)
2. Mesh grill (a eBay seller sells it cheap, like 50 bucks, unpainted, from Japan)
3. Black rubber/plastic splitters (like what you see on then WRX STi/EVO, the black stuff below the bumper)
Engine/Exhaust
1. CT-E icebox, same gain as injen, less pretty, but I need to flood proof my shit :-P
2. Hytech-replica PLM headers.
3. Custom Cat/test pipe (PLM headers are LOOoNG and substantial, so to fit a CAT, the catback had to be cut back)
4. 06+ post facelift exhaust/catback... They are much larger than the 03-05 euro exhaust, in fact the pipe is the same size as comptech catbacks, except not shiny.
5. T1R light weight pulley (5-8hp right there).
6. Grounding wire and voltage stabilizer
Handling (factory suspension, I'm not lowering)
1. eBay front strut bar tower bar
2. Progress RSB
3. Front bottom strut bar
4. Slotted/Cross drilled brake rotors ($270 for them front and rear to my door)
5. Ceramic brake pads all around (hawk brand I was looking at)
Damn the bills.
Last edited by Fredoops; 14-07-2011 at 08:39 PM.
2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars
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Since the euro is a heavy car I found that alot of braves will be needed if you want to make it handle nice. A front strut will make the biggest difference when turning into a corner. The whiteline rear sway doesn't make enough of a difference for the money.
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Originally Posted by white_ep3_civic
Since the euro is a heavy car I found that alot of braves will be needed if you want to make it handle nice. A front strut will make the biggest difference when turning into a corner. The whiteline rear sway doesn't make enough of a difference for the money.
well Chasis stiffening IMO is a must since the Euro is rather... "soft".
Then it's the matter of taking the weight out of the front end.
I'd personally get Progress because: A) it's adjustable B) its 22mm instead 18mm in the Whiteline C) review here says this a better design C) it's like $200 bucks shipped to your door those days THANK YOU HIGH AUSSIE DOLLAR
Last edited by Fredoops; 15-07-2011 at 06:14 PM.
2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars
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