y dnt u just do simple trouble shooting on the ignition side of things i.e check plugs, work ur way down to leads pull 1 off n c if its sparking then go to ur dizzy n diagnose that..simple
y dnt u just do simple trouble shooting on the ignition side of things i.e check plugs, work ur way down to leads pull 1 off n c if its sparking then go to ur dizzy n diagnose that..simple
It's not always that simple.
If you've tried fixing these sort of problems, you would know.
Pretty much everything ignition side is new, Fuel pump is a new VL turbo pump 40psi - then up to 45 psi when given a little pedal.
So hes taken the ECU and dizzy out to be sent off to be checked out.
The tacho shakes alot more violently then like in the video.
Update!
Ecu came back as 100% fine, went through 3 coils... (Must have been a bad batch)
New igniter as that was down on power...
Still playing up...
But, It gets me to work as long as I dont flog it.
We've found that if I play with the wires between the intake manifold and head, The ones that run to the injectors it runs perfect for a little bit, So a wire, somewhere in the loom must be shorting out. Got a mate whos a f****** genius when it comes to cars coming over to help me.
By genius I mean, TF rodeo, full drift build. SR20det, 326rwhp, 850nm, 4 link, body drop, chassis notch, Coilovers all round, massive brakes etc.
All done by him in his home garage. Not to mention some of his other builds.
Since the ECU came back ok - did they manage to obtain any CEL Codes?
your saying that the wires near the intake manifold / head ... - you mean the TPS sensor? or IDLE Control? or Intake / MAP sensor? or Dizzy wires?
if those wires are shorting or cut ...they your car will run in limbo mode (safe mode) which means you wont be able to rev high and your engine /tacho will run like sh*t.
maybe your engine is kocking and hence why it runs like crap?
Ill try put some videos up of it tomorrow, I dont think its throwing up any codes otherwise they probably would have found them. It revs fine when the wires are in the right place, but misses pretty harshly other times. Its not as bad as it used to be though. If we cant work it out it will go to an auto lecky.
Happened to me before when I had a VAFCII intalled on my old B16A which was out of a JDM Del-sol. After I removed the VAFCII everything went back to normal.
I changed the battery terminal and replaces the earths... Made things better.
But i find its starting to do it again lately when after i give it a good revving. Turn the car off and back on and it seems to work.
Took it to an auto sparky... Typically it didnt play up for him and it cost me 50 bucks lol.
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