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  1. #25
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Parkville
    Car:
    Civic EK4
    Thanks man lol. I think I will end up with the spoon N1 and probably springs. Doubt I can afford coilovers at this point of time

    Guess with what I have now I will probably end up with a spoon N1, springs and probably look into the cold air intake later.

    Btw, is there any workshop or something that you guys can recommend around Melbourne if you guys know any?

  2. #26
    Banned Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    B16EG-GD3-DC2
    spoon n1 muffler?

    if its just the muffler u can do that youself, its very easy.

    springs are a little more complicated, SDX91 was gonna get pedders to quote him installation on springs he was self supplying, but haven't heard the price yet.

  3. #27
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Parkville
    Car:
    Civic EK4
    ok Do you have a link where I can look it up? If you dont I can try find it.

    btw SDX91 if you get a quote let me know so I can know roughly how much is it to get it installed

  4. #28
    Banned Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    B16EG-GD3-DC2
    Here

    gets good around page 3-4 i think then just read through most of its rubbish between me n SDX lol.

  5. #29
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Parkville
    Car:
    Civic EK4
    Thanks man haha. Shall let you know how I go once I get the stuff. Looks easy btw.

  6. #30
    Banned Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    B16EG-GD3-DC2
    yeh the bolts are pretty stright forward
    right under the "back axle" might be seized some use wd40 and a rattle gun if need be.

    was thw spoon a muffler or catback?

  7. #31
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Parkville
    Car:
    Civic EK4
    The spoon would be a muffler. So should be quite straight forward

  8. #32
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Suzuka Circuit "Spoon corner", Fuji Speedway "100R Corner"
    Car:
    DC2R & R32 GT-R
    LOL modding a Jazz....Put a K20Z1/K20A/K20A2, gut everything out and stiffen the chassis is the only way i see a real JAZZ!!!!!
    "Stock Car, Modified Driver"

  9. #33
    Banned Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    B16EG-GD3-DC2
    can we get some realistic answers in here?
    like srsly we dont all have $15k that we dont need.
    and everyone knows about the K swap idea and it has been suggested to death.

    what we need are realistic ideas that will make the car just abit more fun and still be road legal

  10. #34
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Parkville
    Car:
    Civic EK4
    I agree with you GU357. I dont have that much cash to spare. Probably will have one when i start working? LOL

  11. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by GU357 View Post
    Rotel ur partially right about the air being needing to move and that exhaust diameter is related to desired rev range, but.

    The reason u want a thinner exhaust at Low Revs is so the exhaust travels fast enough to create a low pressure drag behind the exhaust pulse.
    if u dont have that drag then the engine doesnt really want to rev at that speed (or turn over at all).
    I dont think it moves the power range but rather emphasizes and magnifies it in certain ranges.
    but all things being equal means you lose it down low or up high.

    If u have a high reving engine ie Rotary, then u want a big pipe because u dont want the pipe to be constrictive of the exhaust gas that can be output, so ur pumping more exhaust so u will need a bigger pipe to maintain the same flow rate.

    When tuning an exhaust you aim for volumetric efficiency, and 0 back pressure.
    the width of the exhaust must be suited for the peak RPM's where you have peak HP but also where you still have torque.

    to attain no backpressure u want a straight pipe with no bends or constrictions (ie CATs) thats why u get HFC's n that.
    *another good trick to make exhaust move from ur headers is too wrap it in heat wrap! because hot gasses move faster.
    -the whole back pressure thing is a misconception because someone that that by putting a big exhaust on his car he wouldhave less backpressure then he drives it n is like this sucks, no backpressure = no torque, rather then saying wider is not better (in this case).
    From all the research i did in this area years ago, i'm pretty sure i'm right, but anyway. You need to be look @ this using fluid dymanics. the smaller the diameter pipe, the faster the air/fluid will flow, to a point, were the smaller pipe becomes a restriction.

    Quote Originally Posted by GU357 View Post
    anyway if u turbo the car all exhaust components past the wastegate are useless lol so rotel shouldnt need to worry because after the exhaust is past the turbo it doesnt need to create the low pressure behind the pulse because the engines being fed air like crazy lol, so its home free for the exhaust afterwards.
    yes i know this. The reason behind that = in an NA engine, when the exhaust valve closes, an amount of vacum is created due to movement of the gases in the exhaust system, and the amount of vacum created effects engine efficeincy. tuned right, this will help extract exhuast gases and intake air/fuel. you also have to take into account the gases shrinking in volume as they cool, adding to the vacum effect. that's why different header designs exsist, and if you look into, effect different parts of the rev range.

    This becomes less rellivent in a turbo charged engine, as the turbo once it's spooling, is pushing the air/fuel into chamber.

    The engine is just an air pump after all, and the faster you can get the air to pass throu the system, the more power you will make.

  12. #36
    kenneth - pick your local exhaust shop, and get them to put one of their "special" stainless steal muffler's on it. Right price in slacks creek did mine for like $160. it made a difference over stock, and doesnt take them long to do. i'm still using mine on my turbo's system, and there seem's to be no restriction.

    you can spend alot more on a name brand, and you'll gain MAYBE a KW or 2.

    then get the a panel filter for the stock box, i've seen samota ones on ebay for like $30.

    Then start saving for a set of mags and decent tyres, i've found the Bridgestone Adreneline's to be good @ the price, thou the G3' i used to run were better, but alot more $$$. and either get some coilovers fitted while you're @ the shop, or @ a later stage.

    depending on what you get in the way of coilovers, you will find that you might need some strut bracing. They are cheap, and make a difference. personally, the i'm running the Ultra racing gear, and i can vouch for the quality. ebay, front strut brace was like $120 landed, and it took about a week to get here from HK.

    ... i'd tell you just how much a difference it made, but like the day they showed up, the engine mounts finaliy let get, and the engine movement broke my exhaust manifold. it's in the shop now getting the mounts fitted, (i didn't have time...), and the manifold re-welded. hopefully it's not off the road too much longer.

    oh yeah... the engine mounts in the jazz are pooh. save for a set of inovative mounts out of the states. my set cost me $360 landed. if anyone wants the link to the shop in the states PM me
    Last edited by ss-rotel; 19-08-2011 at 01:25 AM.

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