[CL9]&[CU2] You got Automatic transmission? *you'll WANT to read this*

[Martin77]

Until the 16th Jan, Super cheap is doing special on the Nulon synthetic ATF. Its $38.33 on the website.
A tad cheaper compared to their normal 20% sale.

[Fredoops]

Until the 16th Jan, Super cheap is doing special on the Nulon synthetic ATF. Its $38.33 on the website.
A tad cheaper compared to their normal 20% sale.

Thats where i got mine. all 4 bottles of it

[Haanda]

One other point that I forgot to mention. Remember that when doing a 3 x 3 change, you have to drive the car for a few kms, or at least start the engine when the car is on the hoist and operate the transmission through all gears to circulate the fluid (a mixture of, old and new) through the system.
This will also flush the new mix through the transmission cooler. So opening the system up between the transmission and the transmission cooler is not going to achieve any benefit, other than dropping out more of the mixed fluid. Also, the transmission is not a sealed, pressured system and vents to atmosphere via the dipstick tube. There will be some air in there at all times.

As regards Valvoline Maxlife. It is still here in Oz. I used it in my 1st 3 x 3 change, just after I bought the car 11 months ago and have just used it for the 2nd 3 x 3. But rather than looking for 4 litre containers of the stuff at Auto Accessory Shops, I got my local garage, who use Valvoline products across the board, to do the changes (with me in attendance) when they did the last normal 10,000m km interval service. They stock it in bulk and use it in quite a few different makes of vehicle (I also use it in my SAAB's Auto Trans.)
They did not mind me taking the car off the hoist between fills and disappearing for 15 minutes to do the prerequisite drive arounds.

Now that I have done two lots of 3 x 3 changes, I am confident that pretty well all of the original factory initial fill fluid has been removed and I will also be doing as Freedops says, a single drop/refill annually.

[Martin77]

Thanks Haanda,

I think whatever we do (flush or drain/refill) it is important to realise that we need to change the ATF regularly. More frequently than what Honda suggests (1 drain and refill at 120k km). The automatic transmission is a crucial component in a car and if that goes, its going to be expensive to repair and if the car is more than 10 years old it may not be worth repairing. The frequency will depend on the style of driving and what is important is sticking to the frequency more so than the method. According to this forum, if the car has been serviced according to the log book, an initial 3X3 followed by a simple drain/refill at each/second service is the gold standard.

It seems like the Valvoline Maxlife is very popular here.

It seems like what Fredoops has done is correct by tackling the core issue of the ATF problem, which is inadequate cooling to the ATF. He has installed an ATF cooler in front of the A/C condenser to assist with the cooling. If there is enough cooling, ATF should last a long time. This method is not for everyone as there is a potential issue in the reduction of A/C condenser efficiency if the cooler is placed infront of it. Fredoops has done a fix by using a more efficient refrigerant.

[Haanda]

Certainly changing the fluid more frequently will definitely prolong the life of any mechanical equipment. My work background was in the Oil Industry and the company I worked for had a strict preventative maintenance policy of changing the oil every 3 months, on all mechanical equipment, irrespective of whether it was electric, internal combustion or steam driven, (yes, we used large, multi stage steam turbines! ) Some equipment also had auto type radiator coolers and the coolant in those was changed annually. There was a good reason and it is a policy that has stuck with me!
I have mentioned that I also own a SAAB ( a 20 year old one at that) and that has both an auto transmission cooler and an engine oil cooler. The former is mounted under the radiator so that it does not interfere with the engine cooling. Mind you, the fact that there is a Turbo intercooler at the very front , followed by an airconditioner condenser then the engine radiator, may also have something to do with the location. Even the manual transmission SAAB Turbo's have a gearbox oil cooler.

One thing that both my mechanic and I noticed when doing the 3 x 3, was just how hot the fluid and the drain plug was when we went to drain the fluid after a run of only 10 kms. One could not hold the plug. That heat will be the main reason why the fluid goes off.

I have also had some input into Taxi operation since I retired from the Oil Industry and savvy taxi owners also install external transmission coolers on their cars, be it Ford, GM, Chrysler or Toyota. It does prolong the life of the transmission, often for the entire time the car is on the road in Taxi service. They also do frequent transmission oil changes irrespective of what the manufacturer specifies.
So yes, to sum up, more frequent oil changes, with a top quality synthetic oil ( make your own choice of brand. As long as it meets the manufacturers specs it will be fine)works well. Installing a trans cooler ( it doesn't have to be big. Lowering the fluid temperature by just a few degrees C makes a huge difference) will also help maximise the life of the transmission.

Happy ring

[Martin77]

Thanks Haanda. Very useful information.

Some of our CL9s are aging a little (mine has) and probably need a replacement radiator soon.
Does anyone know of a better/performance radiator that could cool the automatic transmission fluid better than the stock radiator?

[Fredoops]

Thanks Haanda. Very useful information.

Some of our CL9s are aging a little (mine has) and probably need a replacement radiator soon.
Does anyone know of a better/performance radiator that could cool the automatic transmission fluid better than the stock radiator?

No, there isnt. it's just the oem design, the trans cooler i added is only the size of an iPad Mini

[Haanda]

There are some AM manufacturers that use better grade alloys in their products than the OEM unit. Nissens and Fenix are 2 brands that come to mind (in both cases of those names, the end product comes from the same factory, but with a different name on the box.) But you will usually pay as much or more, than Honda OEM.

[Ten]

Great guide. Changed the fluid and filter on mine today. Found it easiest to remove the airbox to get at the filter.

[CL9_euro]

Hey Fredoops this thread is thoroughly informative and helpful on so many levels.
Anyway I'm planning to change my ATF this weekend.
My car's gone 105000kms without having 1 ATF change (bought it last month) & after reading this thread I'll be certain to drain the ATF of 3 quartz/2.8L for each of the next 3 services (105000km, 110000km & 115000km).

I have one question to ask..
From your experience do you recommend I buy the:

- Redline Synth D4 from performancelub @ $23 per quartz ($69 total)

- Penrite LV @ $49 for 4L
http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Produ...4-Litre/396357

- Nulon 100% Synthetic Multi-Vehicle *edit $44 for 4L*
http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Produ...4-Litre/164776

Mind you it would be cheaper as well as more convenient for me to go to supercheap as its closer (for the penrite/nulon) as compared to driving to greensborough/pay for postage @ performancelub (redline)

[Martin77]

Welcome to ozhonda CL9_euro.
In regards to the service interval, with good synthetic oil, this car can go to 10,000 km service interval (normal driving). It would be a waste of money and time to doing it every 5,000 km. When you changed the atf once at 105,000 km, the second and third doesn't become as urgent (10000 is OK compared to 5000 km). This would be more cost and time effective.

Or you could do the gold standard which is the 3x drain and refill at 105,000 km.

[CL9_euro]

Welcome to ozhonda CL9_euro.
In regards to the service interval, with good synthetic oil, this car can go to 10,000 km service interval (normal driving). It would be a waste of money and time to doing it every 5,000 km. When you changed the atf once at 105,000 km, the second and third doesn't become as urgent (10000 is OK compared to 5000 km). This would be more cost and time effective.

Or you could do the gold standard which is the 3x drain and refill at 105,000 km.

Cheers Martin. Looks like ill do the intervals at every 10000kms.
Have you tried all the 3 oils i mentioned above?
- Redline D4
- PenriteLV
- Nulon 100% Synthetic Multi-Vehicle

Which one do you recommend?