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  1. #313
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    16 Wilkins St E Annerley
    Car:
    Toyota Soarer
    I'm seeing so many D

    Can't help but think di

    Di

    Di

    Dic

    Dictionary
    Users I've upset: EKVTIR-T | Renaissance_x | Integra-GSi | Stevil | vteckiller | dyln_bxtr | zedries | joyride | eren | Brian FD2R | AusS2000 | amant02 - II | CRXDEL501 | Indie | UiK | mnc | neut

  2. #314
    Just completed a 3 x 3 dump and pump and filter change with Amsoil ATL. Initial test drive is the tranny shifts are smooth like stock. Put it in sports mode and rowing through the gears via the paddle shifter, the gear changes feels positive no slip or sloppy at high revs. I could be comparing old fluid with new fluid but the tranny seems quieter. All I hear is the slight rumble of from the tyres. Pity the Euro does not have a temperature sensor in the tranny to compare old and new fluid temps.

    All up I used 11 and a bit quarts of Amsoil ATL. The Honda DW1 at 30k km was really black, all the additives must be doing its job.

  3. #315
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Accord Euro
    Quote Originally Posted by Fredoops View Post
    You're not meant to use d4 for cu2.

    You should be using a thinner d6 or something
    Might be good to clarify that on the first page. All it says is pre 2010 and all the oils are listed below with no post 2010 heading. My CU2 is MY09.

  4. #316
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    '03 Euro [CL9]
    Quote Originally Posted by Rich View Post
    Might be good to clarify that on the first page. All it says is pre 2010 and all the oils are listed below with no post 2010 heading. My CU2 is MY09.
    The 1st post says 2010 because that's when Honda's Service bulletin came out to make the move to DW1.

    Pre-2010 had Z1 as factory fill.
    2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
    CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars

  5. #317
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Accord Euro
    Quote Originally Posted by Fredoops View Post
    The 1st post says 2010 because that's when Honda's Service bulletin came out to make the move to DW1.

    Pre-2010 had Z1 as factory fill.
    Yeah that was my interpretation. I was just thinking it could be misinterpreted and maybe that's what went down.

    Given Honda now only supply DW1, would it be fair to say all models would be ok on the post 2010 alternative oils (Amsoil ATL & Redline D6)? Clearly post 2010 models shouldn't use the earlier, thinner oils.
    Last edited by Rich; 04-09-2015 at 05:04 PM.

  6. #318
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    '03 Euro [CL9]
    Quote Originally Posted by Rich View Post
    Yeah that was my interpretation. I was just thinking it could be misinterpreted and maybe that's what went down.

    Given Honda now only supply DW1, would it be fair to say all models would be ok on the post 2010 alternative oils (Amsoil ATL & Redline D6)? Clearly post 2010 models shouldn't use the earlier, thinner oils.
    The earlier atf were thicker.

    The dw1 is the fuel-economy edition atf that's thinner than the z1.

    The z1 replacements are cheaper than the dw1 replacements. So if you got the older oil as factory fill I don't see the sense in paying substantially more for the dw1 equivalent.
    2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
    CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars

  7. #319
    So my new 2007 CL9 with barely 47000K on it seems to have a strange behaviour with holding onto revs (like it is not shifting down sometimes)
    Like today, I am rolling down hill for about 150 meters @ about 65km, I let go off the accelerator and it feels like its still holding on @ just a little over 2000 RPM.

    Other times I back off the accelerator on a straight and every now and then it doesn't want to shift down, still holding @ 2000rpm unless I tap the brakes or accelerator.

    I didn't notice this behaviour from my 2003 CL9 I owned before???




    I think a transmission flush in order but which of these is better given the are about the same price.

    which of these specs is better

    NULON FS
    http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Aut.../#applications

    or

    PENRITE ATF LV

    http://www.penriteoil.com.au/product...d_products=709

  8. #320
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Geelong, Victoria
    Car:
    Accord Euro Lux
    Both would have to meet the manufacturers specs and both company's produce excellent oils. Have a think about Valvoline Maxlife ATF as well. But it's your call really.

  9. #321
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    CD5 & GE6
    Good luck finding Penrite ATF LV anywhere
    And if you do, the cost would be pretty expensive lol

    I wouldn't use MAxxlife in such a 'new' car
    You've gone through more accords than I changed underwear this month! - Sugz

    www.OzAccord.net/forum

  10. #322
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Adelaide
    Car:
    06 Euro Lux
    Nulon FS only meets Honda 89, 96 and Z1 specs so it's equal to Penrite ATF FS http://www.penriteoil.com.au/product...d_products=336

    used both, no real difference, just stuck with penrite based on preference

    LV is in some stores but not many due to most cars using DW1 or similar specs are still under warranty so not much popularity yet

    DW1 is a bit thinner

  11. #323
    giving these guys a shot for Penrite LV

    http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/liver...4-l/1061030112

  12. #324
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Geelong, Victoria
    Car:
    Accord Euro Lux
    Quote Originally Posted by Jasemas View Post
    Good luck finding Penrite ATF LV anywhere
    And if you do, the cost would be pretty expensive lol

    I wouldn't use MAxxlife in such a 'new' car
    Why not? I've got it in my MY12. Feels no different to the factory fill stuff. As long as the oil used meets the required specs, then there should not be an issue.

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