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  1. #1
    Ninja turtle Array
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    May 2004
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    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by Master_Scythe View Post
    And another for those interested:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uCmvmkvnVyE

    Turns out those long runners and earlier torque do exactly as i thought untill 3rd gear.

    EDIT: and considering its the RSX, so american delivered, it has leather and sunroof in the 'base', so its even heavier than our base too!
    RSX type S driver didn't launch properly. 15.2s is the time you get in an accord euro.

    You don't buy a type R for just threw power. You buy it for the chassis, the lsd, lighter flywheel and much better handling. If these are not important for your usage, then just get the base or luxury DC5. There is no need to justify your choice over the type Rm
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  2. #2
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    Jan 2010
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    Sydney
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    DC2R
    Quote Originally Posted by Indie View Post
    What points have you made at all?
    Lol dont try and troll me because I stated that the dc2/dc4 gsi is a heap of shit, I didn't mean offense but you are obviously taking it..

    Pretty sure most of that comment I wrote was answering the questions that he had, may not of been 100% but atleast helping him out..

  3. #3
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    Oct 2010
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    Sydney
    Car:
    Integra
    Quote Originally Posted by RSKEbaby View Post
    Lol dont try and troll me because I stated that the dc2/dc4 gsi is a heap of shit, I didn't mean offense but you are obviously taking it..

    Pretty sure most of that comment I wrote was answering the questions that he had, may not of been 100% but atleast helping him out..
    I couldn't care less about your comments about the GSi. Everything you said, including that comment, was basically bullshit.

  4. #4
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    Jan 2008
    Location
    John St, Cabramatta
    Car:
    DC5R
    Honestly.. The dc5r is better is every way.

  5. #5
    EP3R if you want something standard that will jump off the line quickly. Lightweight flywheel does wonders for low end throttle response.

  6. #6
    Just a thought


    Dc5r has a better gearbox than base - ratios and LSD (plus lighter flywheel?) so in all situations and speeds it will have faster acceleration. Gearing makes a car go.

  7. #7
    Member Array
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    Jan 2008
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    John St, Cabramatta
    Car:
    DC5R
    Stock
    For
    Stock. Dc5r. But what kevin said is a very valud point.. Ep3r.. More
    Power, lightergywheel... Best for ur requirement of accerlarationneeds? However its just accerlaaration.. So getting away from lights as fast as possible is a factor fOr u? Op seems likr he is stuck in yhose car racIng games where u can choose a car that is catergorised based on top speed, accerlaration and handling
    Lol

  8. #8
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    May 2006
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    1988 Honda Accord
    Quote Originally Posted by r3ckless View Post
    Stock
    For
    Stock. Dc5r. But what kevin said is a very valud point.. Ep3r.. More
    Power, lightergywheel... Best for ur requirement of accerlarationneeds? However its just accerlaaration.. So getting away from lights as fast as possible is a factor fOr u? Op seems likr he is stuck in yhose car racIng games where u can choose a car that is catergorised based on top speed, accerlaration and handling
    Lol
    Haha, possibly.
    Reguardles of what I go, it'll be my 'most powerful cat yet' so i'm sure i'll be happy.

    And yeah, my driving style is quite particular. The locations I drive and live have a billion more times you need to 'traffic weave' or get in front of the pack at the lights for any chance of open road.

    Thats why acceleration is important.

    Hmm,I suppose at that price, if I just got the R, running costs arent that big of a deal since even if i was 'cheap' (which i probably wouldnt do) the knock sensor would just retard the timing.

    oh just thought of the insurance factor... I should probably check that up too.

    Thanks for everyones help so far.

  9. #9
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    Apr 2009
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    Melbourne S.E
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    D15BSwappedEM1.
    whats the shifting like in the EP3R anyways? Looks like its in a awkward spot?
    Originally Posted by charliebrown
    And whoever said my gsi is overpriced... you got NO idea mate. GSis go for 13k+

  10. #10
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    Jan 2008
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    CT9A
    For 12k you will definitely not get an clean example R but if your happy with that then thats all good,
    but personally i haven't seen much if not any dc5r's go for anything below 15k unless they're modded so wrong to the point of no return or its just a base trying to pass off as a R.

    As for the performance differences having owned many hondas incl the dc5r there is no way the base has any chance against the type R, lets face it the k20a3 compared to audm k20a2 or jdm k20 is pretty much like a 30-40kw difference if i recall correctly? not to mention the type R are built to be performance cars where the base/luxury is more of a stylist family car with no intention of it's target market actually requiring/caring of the power differences and if you really did i think honda would've assumed/recommended you would get the R lol

    Test drive both and you will understand but judging from your posts you seem more suited for the base/luxury as personally i don't think there's much point these days people who get R's unless you get a clean example R (but be prepared to pay top dollar) and you can actually baby it properly or else it's just going to become one for the 12k resales as you've stated if not lower as it will depreciate heavily over the years of your ownership if it's not babied and seem like an enthusiast's

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzukashi View Post
    For 12k you will definitely not get an clean example R but if your happy with that then thats all good,
    but personally i haven't seen much if not any dc5r's go for anything below 15k unless they're modded so wrong to the point of no return or its just a base trying to pass off as a R.

    As for the performance differences having owned many hondas incl the dc5r there is no way the base has any chance against the type R, lets face it the k20a3 compared to audm k20a2 or jdm k20 is pretty much like a 30-40kw difference if i recall correctly? not to mention the type R are built to be performance cars where the base/luxury is more of a stylist family car with no intention of it's target market actually requiring/caring of the power differences and if you really did i think honda would've assumed/recommended you would get the R lol

    Test drive both and you will understand but judging from your posts you seem more suited for the base/luxury as personally i don't think there's much point these days people who get R's unless you get a clean example R (but be prepared to pay top dollar) and you can actually baby it properly or else it's just going to become one for the 12k resales as you've stated if not lower as it will depreciate heavily over the years of your ownership if it's not babied and seem like an enthusiast's
    Well said.
    I think its come to price. I know i managed to bargain the TypeR already, If i can bargain the base below 10k, I may still consider it. But yeah.... If i'm gonna change suspension etc. anyway, why not go the R and leave it stock?
    I guess I just worry about whether or not i'm going to 'avoid driving it' when going super long distances due to costs.

    Or is the KM\L figures fairly equal assuming I dont stick the boot in?

  12. #12
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    hondie 2000
    i gather that you don't race - maybe look at what has more midrange torque?

    oh and i'd recommend the R too - think of the resale value afterward and the idea of owning something more special
    S P A M | W O R K S
    hehe.
    PHC


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