Hard to get into first gear?

**mugen_ctr** · 19-10-2011 07:38 PM

Hey ppl, been having a hard time driving the Cl9 euro, 6 spd manual, when im in a start stop situation, im struggling to pop it into first gear, sometimes, ive had to actually pop it into 2nd gear, than back into first, than take off... and at times, where i held up traffic, because i simply cannot slide it into first gear

Dont tell me, "ur not driving manual properly", because ive been driving manuals all my life, an this is a first time, that im struggling driving it LOL

possible causes?

Repair solution?

Anyone else had similar cases?

**Mr.DC2** · 19-10-2011 08:41 PM

maybe check if there is enough oil in the gear box or maybe time for a new clutch the pressure plate might have given up on u.

**HONTUNE** · 19-10-2011 08:45 PM

Yeah could be your clutch pressure plate. The springs loose tension making it hard to select gears or it could be problem with a syncro. Have you had a clutch bleed lately?

**mugen_ctr** · 19-10-2011 09:04 PM

after some digging around, i found this, http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-ge...post-29-a.html

will have a look in the morning

I honestly dont think its the clutch as the car has around 117,000kms, and thats far to low for any clutch to let go, i recall it might of had it replaced with a HD, but ill have to double check on that....

surely i cant be the only one driving around with a faulty cl9 lol

**stndrd** · 19-10-2011 09:10 PM

it may be the viscosity of the oil that has been used or as mentioned, the gearbox oil level may be down slightly. from my experience i highly doubt it will it will be a collapsed pressure and/or clutch plate, as you would have problems selecting ANY gear. if your in sth eastern suburbs, pm me and i can have a look at it for you at work

**mugen_ctr** · 19-10-2011 09:21 PM

Pm'd you, cheers

**marquee** · 19-10-2011 09:27 PM

shouldnt be your clutch.. i think it may be your fluids.

Next time it happens try and rev your engine a little bit and chuck it in while the clutch is still in of course. It happened to me for a bit but i just reflushed the fluids and that fixed it.

**mugen_ctr** · 19-10-2011 09:39 PM

Originally Posted by marquee

shouldnt be your clutch.. i think it may be your fluids.

Next time it happens try and rev your engine a little bit and chuck it in while the clutch is still in of course. It happened to me for a bit but i just reflushed the fluids and that fixed it.

yeah thanks man... ill look into it, it sounds like this could be the case, though did u use honda mtf? and if u dont mind, how much do i need if i was to redo a flush, cheers

**marquee** · 19-10-2011 09:55 PM

I use motul racing fluid probably a bit of overkill but meh... Not sure my mechanic does that the manual should say. Just use a bottle of shitty stuff then fill it up with your choice of fluid. If you use motul dont be scared if it crunches a bit just takes longer to warm up but when its warm the diference is imsane

**mugen_ctr** · 19-10-2011 10:02 PM

daymmmm over kill indeed lol, but only the best of the best

cheers man..... i have a look around for other MTF, and see what comes out on top, bang for buck lol

**aaronng** · 20-10-2011 09:01 AM

It happens. Why it happens is because of one of the following:

1) The stars are aligned and the 1st gear is in a teeth on teeth alignment with the input shaft. Happens often, happened to me a few times in a week once. Just pop it into 2nd and back into 1st like what you have been doing.

2) There is a bit of air in the clutch line which causes the clutch to not fully disengage. To diagnose, put it into 1st gear when stationary. Hold the brake pedal down. Slowly release the clutch and note when the RPM starts to drop. The point when it starts to drop should be around the middle of the clutch travel. It it starts to drop when the pedal is very close to the floor, then there is probably air in it. Just bleed the clutch fluid out a bit through the clutch slave cylinder bleed nipple which is just under the coolant reservoir and intake manifold. Remember to top up the clutch fluid.

3) If after bleeding the clutch line SUFFICIENTLY you still have the problem with the RPM dropping when the pedal is near the floor, then the clutch pressure plate could be fcked and is not allowing the clutch friction disc to disengage. This is unlikely as it would affect all gears and you won't be able to get into gear even after going into 2nd (well, you won't be able to get into 2nd anyway with this problem).

Oh, and if you have never changed transmission fluid since ownership, then I recommend you do so since you have over 110k on the clock. The transmission takes 75w80 MTF. Don't use 75w90 as it will cause accelerated synchro wear and result in very notchy gearshifts and grinding.

**mugen_ctr** · 20-10-2011 10:03 AM

Originally Posted by aaronng

It happens. Why it happens is because of one of the following:

1) The stars are aligned and the 1st gear is in a teeth on teeth alignment with the input shaft. Happens often, happened to me a few times in a week once. Just pop it into 2nd and back into 1st like what you have been doing.

2) There is a bit of air in the clutch line which causes the clutch to not fully disengage. To diagnose, put it into 1st gear when stationary. Hold the brake pedal down. Slowly release the clutch and note when the RPM starts to drop. The point when it starts to drop should be around the middle of the clutch travel. It it starts to drop when the pedal is very close to the floor, then there is probably air in it. Just bleed the clutch fluid out a bit through the clutch slave cylinder bleed nipple which is just under the coolant reservoir and intake manifold. Remember to top up the clutch fluid.

3) If after bleeding the clutch line SUFFICIENTLY you still have the problem with the RPM dropping when the pedal is near the floor, then the clutch pressure plate could be fcked and is not allowing the clutch friction disc to disengage. This is unlikely as it would affect all gears and you won't be able to get into gear even after going into 2nd (well, you won't be able to get into 2nd anyway with this problem).

Oh, and if you have never changed transmission fluid since ownership, then I recommend you do so since you have over 110k on the clock. The transmission takes 75w80 MTF. Don't use 75w90 as it will cause accelerated synchro wear and result in very notchy gearshifts and grinding.

Heaps of info there..... Will bleed the clutch and see how it goes, hopefully it should do the trick, thanks heaps!