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  1. #13
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    06 Euro luxury manual
    Lightened flywheel and lower final drive will do wonders.Otherwise headers are best bolt on value.

  2. #14
    Ok noobish question, what's a final drive? Clutch or gearbox upgrade?

  3. #15
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Accord Euro 03
    Gear box mod. Will a ep3r final drive work

  4. #16
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    06 Euro luxury manual
    Quote Originally Posted by tonysalib View Post
    Ok noobish question, what's a final drive? Clutch or gearbox upgrade?
    Diff.But you do have to split the gearbox to access the diff.

  5. #17
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by MingZai View Post
    TBH I don't fully agree with bennjamin because the DC5R vs the Euro R there isn't a BIG difference in track performance wise.
    If you are basing it on Best Motoring's racing around the track, don't. Their racing is biased based on the driver of the car.

    Quote Originally Posted by MingZai View Post
    If your car is modded out fine even without the turbo / supercharger you can get some good times.

    It's just that you need a lot of time and money to make sure everything is perfect and most people just rather buy another car and waste less money.

    ECU reflash + weight loss is quite important if you want a fast car and it's not just about boosting the hp up like bennjamin said. If your tracking, getting good coilovers and sway bars ect ect
    is also needed to handle that extra power or torque.
    Before you even start on the more expensive mods, take the car to the track first to see which area needs to be improved. Usually it is the driver that requires the most mods before even being able to max out the car on track.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  6. #18
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Darwin
    Car:
    Lexus IS-F
    Quote Originally Posted by aaronng View Post
    Before you even start on the more expensive mods, take the car to the track first to see which area needs to be improved. Usually it is the driver that requires the most mods before even being able to max out the car on track.
    Then tyres. Need good tyres!
    Honda Accord Euro CU2 / Lexus IS-F

  7. #19
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Car:
    04 Euro Lux
    Agreed but he didn't say he wanted to track it
    Mods: Pioneer Double DIN GPS, K&N Typhoon CAI, Buddyclub N+ Spec, Topspeed Headers, Skunk2 Catback Exhaust

  8. #20
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Car:
    04 Euro Lux
    Quote Originally Posted by MingZai View Post
    lmao it's my own car but under parents business name and they wish to leave the car for my little sister :P as we owned it first hand then purchased by me :P
    And you have a 3 series too? Haha
    Mods: Pioneer Double DIN GPS, K&N Typhoon CAI, Buddyclub N+ Spec, Topspeed Headers, Skunk2 Catback Exhaust

  9. #21
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Perth WA
    Car:
    zenki CL9
    Let me just say that yes the euro has a very potent chassis and the engine is somewhat potent.. but the fact is you will need to dump a large amount of money into it, to get it anywhere near 'fast'..

    getting intake/exhaust/tune/cams/forced induction/installation with the minimal amount of supporting mods (ie springs, upgraded brake pads and tyres) would probably cost 10-15k.. and that's the price you'd pay to get about 270-320whp, which is quite respectable for a euro (and quite unique!), but in the scene of jap cars.. its not really going to keep up with other turbo cars that have had maybe 4-5 grand put in it.

    so what i'm basically pointing at is that for the same amount of money (if you spend it wisely!) you can go out and buy a built nissan/toyo for 10-15k which would not only be probably faster, it would cause less headaches and RWD would also be a high point. oh and also you'd be able to keep your euro on the road (reliability)

    but on the other hand, if you love your euro so much, or want to do something that is unique, or enjoy building a car.. then by all means go ahead (i am also quite hyped for a member here who is supercharging his euro, and am looking forward to see how his car goes, so im no hater)

    just throwing out the other options.. if you want to do only intake/exhaust, well.. your euro is still going to be slow, but then again it depends what you want to achieve out of your mods

    my 2c
    Last edited by jzx_andy; 09-11-2011 at 07:48 PM.

  10. #22
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Car:
    04 Euro Lux
    yeha man just go for stance haha
    Mods: Pioneer Double DIN GPS, K&N Typhoon CAI, Buddyclub N+ Spec, Topspeed Headers, Skunk2 Catback Exhaust

  11. #23
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Car:
    Accord Euro '04
    Quote Originally Posted by Type R Positive View Post
    7. Sell car and buy evo!
    YOu might be on to something..lol.

    Supercharger? Dont see myself going there..I'm not looking to track the car. Not yet at least

    Looks like the CL9 responds well to CAI mods, might be a place to start. Just a bit concerned about loss below the 3,000rpm range... but what does a 3hp loss feel like?

    Anywwhere like having the AC on?

  12. #24
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Eva
    Flywheel is the single best thing you can do for straight line performance in the Euro, as others have said. Where are you located? I have a JDM DC5R flywheel for sale
    CL9 Euro Luxury

    Toda - 127kW | Wakefield - 1:19.1 | WSID - 15.4

    QUALITY K-SERIES AND CL9 EURO PARTS FOR SALE

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