wrong info brother. CL9 is k24a3.
you read too much USDM stuff.
Yep, correct.
Originally Posted by stndrd
It's a K24a4 in australian delivered accord euro's. for all your f-frank info refer to www.k20a.org best forum for K series related info on what to do to make x amount of power
Incorrect.
Originally Posted by chauster
09+
Ok
Incorrect. The CU2 Accord Euro is not fitted with a K24A3 as far as I know, it is K24Zsomething. In any case if you want a K24A3 locally you must get it from a CL9 Accord Euro.
If your dead set on n/a, you can't go past a k-frank build. Get a k24 bottom end with some higher compression pistons & forged conrods, put a set of toda valve springs in your k20 head with match porting and you will see good gains thru the whole rev range. Like the V8 boys say, you can't beat cubic inches
Depends how much you want to spend aswell
The cost of doing k20/k24 isnt worth it compared to gains imo. Yes has extra power from 6000rpm (3-5kw) but the all the money spent on a k series tensioner etc could better spent.
The K20 and 24 head are similar they just have different ports and flanges really. The K20a2 has a really good intake cam, specifcally the secondary intake lobe. The exhaust and intake primary lobes and the secondary exhaust lobe are better on a k24a3. The major weak point in a k24 is the stock VTC
Let me share some useful information. To get more power, you'll need more displacement. A 2.4l bottom is a bang for buck. Here is a good comaprison between a K20/K24 - K20
Changing cams in a K20 is pointless. The cost vs gains is useless
Here is the potential of OEM Honda parts in an K24 motor
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Originally Posted by mocchi
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