Wanting to make more power...

[Bludger]

Wouldnt an efficient drive line make him faster?

TODA AU - Correct... You guess about most people is also correct...
The order things are listed in is in order of deminishing return on investment.
If you have to do things in stages or an order, this is what you aught to stick to...
Fwiw: I always reccomend flywheel, clutch & final drive sets over intake & exhaust because if you put the two cars next to each other.
The stock looking & sounding one, with only the flywheel, clutch & final drive;will chop the noisy bucket (Intake, header, exhaust only) every time...
It will do so, quickly, quietly and by a considerable margin.
For guys who only what a mild improvement to their car this is a sensible path...
There is no compromise to the reliability of the vehicle nor it's plain jane charater.
Adding the intake - header - exhaust after that is smarter.
You already have an efficient driveline, the small gains you get from bolt-ons will now take greater effect

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...0%93-DC5R-mods

I meant he was chasing power numbers, not times.

regards
sean

[chauster]

Heavy duty clutch - Better clamping and torque load. So better launches and grippier shifts = Fast time 1/4 mile
Lightened flywheel - Engine revs alots quicker but at the same time upon release of throttle decelerates alot faster = More rev happy car
Final drive - This is where the energy from the gearbox is last transfered before it hits the wheels. This modification works through gear ratios. The higher the number the lower the final drive. E.g a s2k has 4.1 where for one rotation the final drive spins 4.1 times if it had a 4.4 final drive it means that for every one rotation it now spins 4.4 times. BUt this has itd downs aswell. Cruising on the highway will suck your petrol.

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...ht=final+drive

He wants to put stuff in so he can tune more things and be more worth while. Gearbox fd and clutch has nothing to do with it.

-ohsc

[DakDak]

I meant he was chasing power numbers, not times.

regards
sean

I get what you mean now. I was thinking quartermile instead on dyno machine.

[stndrd]

If your chasing killerwasps just stick a turb on it with a good fuel system and vct hubs and bang, mad power! There are a whole heap of cars in america making up to 600whp on stock k20's with a turbo. Check out www.k20a.org for more info

[bennjamin]

Hey all,

I'm in the process of sourcing an rbc and 70mm throttle body for my DC5R, and figured that since I'm planning on buying more parts in the future, I should fit them all at once to save on tuning costs. But the question is, what sort of parts should I be looking at next?

The car currently has I/H/E, Kpro and the rbc and 70mm t/b are on their way. I don't want to do internals yet (rather do that last) and I want to keep the car NA. So what sorts of things should I be looking at? Please give a reason why for each part.

Cheers, Nuci.

Chuck some nice lumpy cans in there to take
Advantage of the flow , and tune it properly. I've heard of good results from aggressive cams
On a k20 motor.

There you go - stock bottom end and you now have anot more power. That's what you wanted right ?!

[1900-hustler]

OP here are your choices:

Stay NA & Keep motor un-touched:
Get better I/H/E - not sure what you have atm but you can invest $ 000s to getting a full toda or js racing setup
You will yeild next to nothing most likley

Stay NA & Open up motor
Install Cams and whatever else you can do - then tune the car after
of course you can do the fuel rail and all that but it wont add any numbers to your power (since thats what your asking)

Forced Induction
Pretty straight forward - but since you wanna stay NA this aint for you
Too bad though cos this would be your best option if you are chasing power

[Nuci]

I've got a decent I/H/E setup already so don't really want to change much there. I still have a lot to learn on the cams side of things, want to make sure I know exactly what is involved before I go buying anything. Bang for buck cams are your buddyclub and skunk2, but I've heard bad things about both. Other end of the spectrum is toda or even further is Jun. But youre getting really exxy there. Like 3-4 grand tuned?

[chauster]

And then you have like 170+ killer wasps. With port polish and forge pistons your engine is finished. What's left is susssy. And you have yourself a honda

[Nuci]

I think I've got a decent suspension setup already. Got coilovers, thicker swaybars front and rear, camber kit front and rear, and decent tyres.

So what other options can people recommend aside from toda cams? Just so I can compare them.

[stndrd]

If your dead set on n/a, you can't go past a k-frank build. Get a k24 bottom end with some higher compression pistons & forged conrods, put a set of toda valve springs in your k20 head with match porting and you will see good gains thru the whole rev range. Like the V8 boys say, you can't beat cubic inches

[Nuci]

K24 bottom ends are becoming increasingly hard to find now though aren't they? And can I keep my kpro and gearbox etc?

[marquee]

Just biy a longblock off jdm yard and sell the head?