f7 lca inner bolts too short

[rubixcube]

So I went and got some bolts..they are threaded all the way down the bolt so I can't run out of thread..still can't tighten them all the way up they just spin, even after I have retapped the subframe nuts with an m10x1.25 hand tap. Wtf? For the moment I have secured the bolt with a second nut on the back of the subframe nut - its tight and definitely not going to come off. Still got nfi why the bolts won't tighten from the front though, both left and right side are the same. Could the subframe nuts just be totally ruined, even though I retapped them?

[dorikin]

Only way to be certain is to take out the bolt, inspect the nut and see if the threads have been stripped.

[rubixcube]

Well I had a look in there after retapping it and it didn't look too bad... :/

[aaronng]

Went down to one of the local bolt shops this morning, he only had m10x1.5x100 in grade 10.9 bolts, the highest tensile 10x1.25x100 bolt he had was grade 8.8...there is another shop that reopens tomorrow morning so I'll check there...but is grade 8.8 ok to use for a little while if I can't find grade 10 right now?

I'd prefer 10.9 of course. No point risking a snapped bolt using the 8.8.

So I went and got some bolts..they are threaded all the way down the bolt so I can't run out of thread..still can't tighten them all the way up they just spin, even after I have retapped the subframe nuts with an m10x1.25 hand tap. Wtf? For the moment I have secured the bolt with a second nut on the back of the subframe nut - its tight and definitely not going to come off. Still got nfi why the bolts won't tighten from the front though, both left and right side are the same. Could the subframe nuts just be totally ruined, even though I retapped them?

If the bolt was just spinning before and not tightening, that means that the thread could be stripped. Once stripped, retapping using the same M10x1.25 as original may give insufficient groove depth to allow the bolt to tighten against. Either re-tap to the next size up or knock out that nut and weld a new one in (you can use JB weld adhesive if you don't want to pay a mech to weld the nut in).

[Lukey]

could he helicoil the nut?

[rubixcube]

I'd prefer 10.9 of course. No point risking a snapped bolt using the 8.8.


If the bolt was just spinning before and not tightening, that means that the thread could be stripped. Once stripped, retapping using the same M10x1.25 as original may give insufficient groove depth to allow the bolt to tighten against. Either re-tap to the next size up or knock out that nut and weld a new one in (you can use JB weld adhesive if you don't want to pay a mech to weld the nut in).

Is welding the nut even necessary? There's plenty of room on the back to use a ring spanner for access to hold the nut for tightening/loosening? If I use two nuts - nylock on top of a normal nut - should be OK? And last question..how do I knock it out lol. Cheers!