Shorter rack ends/tie rods for EF Civic available?

**ToF** · 06-01-2012 12:42 AM

Hey guys,

I've got an EF9 (with a B18 conversion - if that makes a difference?) and I've just installed these camber adjustment arms (http://www.skunk2.com/EF_camber_kit_...v2_retail.html).
After I put these in I noticed I had crazy toe out so I had to wind the toe back by eye until I could get an alignment done today.

At today's alignment, I had new tie rod ends installed at the same time as my old ones had some play in them. The tyre shop just got AUDM ED tie rod ends as directed by me as I assumed they should be the same as the JDM EF9 tie rod ends. I now know this is not the case and the JDM ends are shorter. I only know this now after reading some threads on the EF9 because I have a problem where I cannot run any negative camber with reasonable toe as there is no more thread on the rack end/tie rod.

Basically on -1.5 degrees camber, the most toe I could run is ~45mm toe in because there is no more thread on the rack end for the tie rod end to turn into. This is obviously because the AUDM/USDM tie rod end is longer than the JDM one. Seems like the previous owner didn't know this because the ones taken out of the car are the same length as the new ones put in.

I'm looking for a solution so I can run some proper alignment settings. I don't want to order a JDM tie rod end because I've already got these AUDM ones. I'm looking more for a way to shorten the rack end or find out if there are any shorter rack ends available on the market or even off another model Honda that would fit?

If anyone has any info or has another idea on how I can fix this it would be much appreciated. Thanks

TL;DR I need help in shortening my rack end/tie rod (NOT the tie rod end), or finding out if there are shorter ones available on the market/off a different model Honda that will fit my EF9.

**ToF** · 06-01-2012 12:50 AM

Sorry, that was really a shitload of text which probably makes no sense. This thread might put things into better context: http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...od-Ends-(civic)

**nigs** · 06-01-2012 01:50 PM

Get a engineer to shorten them. Cost me $40 last time I did this.

**chargeR** · 06-01-2012 03:02 PM

Originally Posted by nigs

Get a engineer to shorten them. Cost me $40 last time I did this.

This.

For future reference the part numbers for the EF8/EF9 tie rod ends are:
Left: 53560-SH3-N11
Right: 53540-SH3-N11

**ToF** · 06-01-2012 11:09 PM

Originally Posted by chargeR

This.

For future reference the part numbers for the EF8/EF9 tie rod ends are:
Left: 53560-SH3-N11
Right: 53540-SH3-N11

The more I think about this, it's stupid to shorten my rack ends. I'll bite the bullet and get the EF8/9 ends from Honda. Thanks for the part numbers.
Would you remember approximately how much these cost?

**chargeR** · 07-01-2012 02:31 PM

Originally Posted by ToF

The more I think about this, it's stupid to shorten my rack ends. I'll bite the bullet and get the EF8/9 ends from Honda. Thanks for the part numbers.
Would you remember approximately how much these cost?

I paid over $100 each around 6 months ago. That was with a bit of a discount.

**trism** · 07-01-2012 04:28 PM

Does anyone know why the EF8/9 have shorter rack ends than the other models?

**hondapop** · 07-01-2012 07:37 PM

Originally Posted by trism

Does anyone know why the EF8/9 have shorter rack ends than the other models?

Yes, It's because the EF8/EF9 use a different knuckle/hub to the ED9's and the steering arm that's part of it is longer which also moves the tierod attachment hole further in towards the rack as well, hence the shorter tierod end.

**hondapop** · 07-01-2012 07:47 PM

The easiest way to recognise the EF8/EF9 knuckle is the wide, flattened area in the upper extension (that is apart from the 262mm brakes)

**hondapop** · 07-01-2012 08:04 PM

It has been suggested elsewhere (not on here) that you can cut 10mm off the tierod end threaded end with a hacksaw. 2 disadvantages, 1 minor, 1 major. the minor is that you loose the Hex for a spanner and have to rely on the arms "squareness'' to undo and tighten the locknut. The major is that I defy anyone to cut an accurate face for the locknut to tighten onto.

The car I got the EF/8 knuckles off was an EF7 that had had a brake upgrade done. Whoever did it had overcome the tierod end problem by cutting the tierods themselves, a much better solution.

**trism** · 07-01-2012 08:07 PM

Interesting. Any info on why they ef8/9 had the different knuckle? Is it due to clearance issues with the bigger disc?

**hondapop** · 07-01-2012 08:37 PM

This discovery came about (for me) when dismantling the EF7 which was being used as a parts car and I noticed it had the 262mm brakes on it. I had been doing a comparison between ED9 and DA9 (the other knuckle in the pics)to see what, if any, dimensional differences there were between them.

No-one has been able to explain why, or where the EF8/EF9 knuckles came from or whether they were specific to those models only. I suspect when Honda was upgrading the brakes to 262's they hunted around in their parts bin and found some from another model and the difference in the steering arm didn't present a real problem to the geometry.

One of the guys who tracks an ED9 commented on a problem he had with the DA9 knuckles because of his car being extra low (the DA9's are longer from top ball joint to lower ball joint than ED9 knuckles) which pushed his UCA up too far.
He found some from a Gen 3 Prelude which he says are shorter and have improved his handling. I haven't had an opportunity to check any of them out to see if they are the ones Honda used, would love to do so.