HELP!! - Coolant Overflow filling up and not returning - WTF?

[IV73CI]

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?156645-solved-Need-help-car-heats-up-on-VTEC!-But-only-on-very-hard-runs!&p=3121310#post3121310

HG mosted times

Always test before getting works done

yeh ikr ...thats why i have been wasting alot of times testing, troubleshooting ..and still no good.

Did you do your TK test before or after you went for a drive?

Also i would recommend doing a cylinder pressure test (with the radiator cap removed) and a radiator pressure test (with your spark plugs removed)

the TK was done after a drive and approx 1hr later .... engine was running to full temp on idle and revving before the test was done.

isnt a cylinder pressure test a Compression test on each cylinder? we did this test with all the spark plugs removed and crank start the car .... = cylinders/compression was ok..

as i said ...ill test trial this ARC rad with the matching rad cap. but first i need to NOW replace my TOP and U shaped rear hose (from IM to Thermostat housing) hoses. as they started to FAT/expand like a mofo lastnight after a long drive to moore park to mosman to the westside... 2hr driving ..

if this new rad still fails, then the last resort is a NEW HG... as it may not show oil/coolant mixtures, heavy gunk, white smoke, leaks but it could be a leaking HG somewhere where its not returning pressure back in to the cooling system.

[IV73CI]

why are you trying another radiator for?

im test trialing another radiator (borrowed - working order) to eliminate the possible causes.

so far..i have replaced and completed tests as below;

REPLACED

1) Thermostat replaced to a new Mugen low temp
= Operating temperature: 68C (STD.: 76-80C), Full-throttle acceleration temperature: 81C (STD.: 90C

2) J'Racing Low tem fan switch
= Beginning operating temperature 80c(OEM 95c), temperature of Stopping 75c(OEM 90c)

3) Test trialing ARC 53mm Alloy Radiator (used - but working)
= Old radiator was a twin core allow ebay special - also used the rad cap that came with the radiator rated at 1.1bar

4) Trial use the radiator cap that came with the ARC.
- will also trial use my new Greddy/Trust 1.3bar cap after a couple of days of trialing the above.

5) Will replace OEM TOP hose & U-shape rear hose (IM to thermostat housing).
- only needed to replace this as it was soft and expanded due to high pressure in the cooling system.

IF ALL FAILS THEN;

6) Head Gasket **************will be the only thing left to do/replace once 4 & 5 is done and if it fails.

COMPLETED TESTS;

A) Cylinder compression tests (removed sparkplugs and crank start whilst testing with the Comp tester)
= Results were 230|220|220|230 all seems normal for a 11.3.1 CR.

B) TK blue solution (tested on idle, cap off, engine revving steady, norm Engine temp)
= Solution remained blue - unchanged

C) Cooling pressure test ****************
= Could not test due to rad cap adaptor didnt fit on ebay special radiator. will test on the ARC trial radiator soon.

D) No signs of any white smoke from the zorst
= though there is the normal condensation

E) There was minimal gunk in the coolant before changing to the ARC trial radiator
= have flushed system and no signs of gunk

F) No other signs of leaking hoses, oil/coolant mixtures.
- coolant only bubbles on a hard run and only inside the overflow bottle.
- will recheck this on the trial ARC radiator.


will update soon on the result of the new hoses and ARC trial use radiator.

Need to seriously get rid of these gremlins inside my cooling system so i can actually go for a track day

[Sexc86]

You need to do the teekay test strait after you have been for a drive - after the car has been under load and still warm. There are two types of cylinder pressure tests.

* Cylinder Compression test (These may indicate a blown head gasket - but usually not a leaking head gasket)
* Cylinder leak down test - Need to rotate your cylinder to TDC. Then you screw in a fitting to your spark plug thred with a pressure gauge / regulator (similar to one that is use to pump up your tyres) - This is a regular air tool run from a air compressor. You pressurise your cylinder chamber with the radiator cap off and take note of any bubbles or loss in pressure on the gauge.

I feel your pain mate, but i honestly think you have a leaking head gasket.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DUAL-GAUG...item4cf861728a

yeh ikr ...thats why i have been wasting alot of times testing, troubleshooting ..and still no good.



the TK was done after a drive and approx 1hr later .... engine was running to full temp on idle and revving before the test was done.

isnt a cylinder pressure test a Compression test on each cylinder? we did this test with all the spark plugs removed and crank start the car .... = cylinders/compression was ok..

as i said ...ill test trial this ARC rad with the matching rad cap. but first i need to NOW replace my TOP and U shaped rear hose (from IM to Thermostat housing) hoses. as they started to FAT/expand like a mofo lastnight after a long drive to moore park to mosman to the westside... 2hr driving ..

if this new rad still fails, then the last resort is a NEW HG... as it may not show oil/coolant mixtures, heavy gunk, white smoke, leaks but it could be a leaking HG somewhere where its not returning pressure back in to the cooling system.

[IV73CI]

Wat we did was a cylinder leak down test as it involved removal of spark plugs and insertion of a pressure gauge tool in the spark plug holes..

[Chr1s]

^ Compression and leak down are two different tests mate....

lol @ hoses starting to fat

[IV73CI]

Ikr... Da hoses were expanding dat it was gunna blow up lol...

Ive ordered a cometic 84.5 0.030 HG and timing belt/tensioner pulley..

Hoping for da parts to arrive early next week.

[u mad?]

so its confirmed it was a bhg?

how long had you had the engine?

[IV73CI]

well I and pretty much the entire WWW and other reputable local cooling radiator places said that its leaning towards a Blown or Leaking HG. As most of the tests has been done and shows signs/symptoms of a HG.

Others have even said ..just one of those unexplained problem .. LOL ..

the motor/conversion has just reached 2mnths.

So atm just waiting on parts to arrive from U.S. and then get crackin in removing the Head.

[grifty]

so u changed the radiator and still the same problem?

[IV73CI]

so u changed the radiator and still the same problem?

Yeh dude, same thing..

More signs now leaning towards a BHG.

1) im now startin to loose coolant too, theres no leaks on any hoses, so its being burnt in the engine.

2) smoke is coming put of the zorst in startup/idle and even after driving for 1+hrs.. Still smokin...

3) alot if condensation coming out of the zorst too on any engine temp. And has alredy destroyed my exhaust pipe gaskets.

4) idle is very rough now too. Cold or warm...

5) bubble activities are happening inside the overflow like a mofo

Those above signs are BHG yeh??

Can i get an amen??? Hellelujiah!!!

[hondapop]

It's now become very obvious and must be deteriorating rapidly. Amens are in order but not sure about the Halleljiah's. If you can avoid driving it will be best as now water will be getting into the oil.

[IV73CI]

It's now become very obvious and must be deteriorating rapidly. Amens are in order but not sure about the Halleljiah's. If you can avoid driving it will be best as now water will be getting into the oil.

Amen!! Lol

Water/coolant hasnt mixed yet wit oil (well dont know what it will look like, some say like a milky choc shake or something)

But def getting worse.

Car is no longer being driven until parts arrive.

Cars eh.. Its like a mofo!!