I've had experience with many K-Swaps, and i always prefer the K24 over a K20 swap, ESP for daily driving. Peak power isnt everything :P
yep, loved the low end /midrange power on the gold byp k24 even though it was pretty basic. felt great to be pushed into your seat by 4k rpm. nice to drive in traffic minus the power steering (or lack of it lol)
k24 will have similar peak power as k20, though it (2lt) wont have anywhere near as much grunt from 1000-6000 rpm
k24 is pretty much better in every way
chuck on 50vtc and tsx intake came, k20 oil pump and you'll have a ripper of an engine
plus.... your going from a 150kw b20, doubt you'd be all that impressed with a k20.
Even the standard IM and TB (budget setups) which will make somewhere around 135kwatw such as the old brown BYP DC2 daily (~130atw), i prefer over a k20a with a higher peak power, due to the low end.
As Jarrod said, RBC, 70mm TB, 50 deg VTC and k20 oil pump, and you will have one serious street car.
Prob is that the engineers also go by the engine displacement output power vs total brake power (safety) and emission testing.
So thw bigger the engine cc means the better the brakes should be.
Too much hassle.
But will a k20z shit on k24 both standard form in an ek/em?
Btw cant wait to see ur dc2 finished @ BYP workshop..
How are brakes effected since the test are at stopping the car 80km/hr? K-series engine isn't much heavier then a B series setup. Emission test should be ok since the K series engines are alot younger esp K24 which are 06/07.
K24 great for daily duties unless your planning to rev the guts out of a k20 everyday to get it anywhere.
1) redlines longer
2) better matched for my long term plan going the snail route.
3) if ever the k20 block blows, i would then frank it to the k24.. (if i decide to stay the NA route).
4) vtec sounds louder
Originally Posted by Mr.Brightside
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