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  1. #1
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EG5 B18C7

    building head for more power gains B18c :D !

    hey guys , as the title states . Im looking to do some headwork for my b18c7 but am pretty stuck on what to do .
    Currently i have a stock b18c7 , only bolt-ons at the moment are Jays racing Carbon intake , Random headers (not sure what brand) and Hurricane exhaust full catback and 2inch aluminium exhaust . Im currently using hondata s200 but is untuned , hence why i also believe my car could be running rich .

    other than that , everything is pretty stock . From what i know , if i get camshafts i should also upgrade my valve springs and retainers as they get put under more stress .
    I also realised that there are different models such as spec 1 , 2 and 3 . one being moderate , 2 being street/ track and 3 being track dedicated not suitable for street .

    I want power gains , a reasonable amount but dont want anything that has too much power that could alter the functions of a daily driver . does that make sense ?
    I dont know too much about the in depth technicality of what to do , thats why i thought id ask .

    I think ill be getting stage 2 ( unsure of what brand) camshafts , upgrade valvesprings and retainers and get tuner adjustable cam gears .

    is there anything else i need to be putting into consideration ?
    Am i missing anything ?
    whats the difference between double and single vavlesprings ?
    In relation to spec 2 or stage 2 camshafts , do different brands offer different power outputs or are they all the same since they are all in the same stage ?

    i tried covering what i could so i dont get flamed for asking .
    YES i am a noob and love to learn so any input would be great . thanks guys !
    " MY VTECC GOES BWAHHHHHHHH BAHHHHHHH BWA BWA BWAAHHHHHHH "

  2. #2
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    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    hehe
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    hehe
    Well first off, replace all of those shitty bolt-ons with something half decent. You can't just throw cams in and expect good power gains, you have to have a good combo.


    'stages' of cams will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, just because they are for example, both stage 2, it doesn't mean they'll necessarily have the same lift/duration.

    Yes you can have good power gains and still retain good drivability/fuel economy, just need to have your shit sorted, ie good combination of parts and a good tune.

  3. #3
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EG5 B18C7
    LOOL of course , im planning on changing the "shitty" bolt ons but after i do some headwork seeing as more power is made there . after the head ill be changing my full exhaust , headers and intake . still yet to decide on what to get though .

    ahh okay , in terms of lift and duration what do you mean ? i dont know too much about " lift/duration"

    ill be getting it tuned once i sort out what i need and what to do , but thanks for the input
    " MY VTECC GOES BWAHHHHHHHH BAHHHHHHH BWA BWA BWAAHHHHHHH "

  4. #4
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    Oct 2009
    Location
    hehe
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    hehe
    from google


    Duration refers to how long a valve is opened in relation to crankshaft rotation. This open valve time period is expressed in degrees of crankshaft rotation. So, a cam specification of 220 degrees duration simply means the cam holds the valve open for 220 degrees of crankshaft rotation.

    lift, how wide the valves are opened



    If you are serious why don't you talk to a good mechanic? toda au on the forums here really knows his shit about b series.

    A good (and expensive ) combo would be:

    mugen/injen intake
    toda header
    100cel metal cat
    buddyclub/fujitsubo/spoon ect catback
    toda b's with all the appropriate valvtrain upgrades to support
    cnc port job
    thinner head gasket


    if you engine is healthy, expect up to 140kw atw

    but then again thats nearly k swap money... (i was considering this before i went to k)



    inb4 adrian

  5. #5
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    IMO fix your bolt-ons first before you do any headwork. Lightweight flywheel and HD clutch would be a nice addition too. Head work isnt cheap!

  6. #6
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Australia
    Car:
    S2000
    Yeah, What these guys have been saying. I'd try to do as much as I can in terms of bolt-ons before thinking about internals. They're much cheaper and easier to work with while providing noticeable gains

  7. #7
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    WA
    Car:
    EG+CL9
    Fujita > Injen for CAI

    i would fix your bolt ons and get the hondata tuned before messing with the head

    would be interesting to see what adrian has to say =)
    ----------------------------
    D15b Turbo EG Sedan Build + CL9 Lux N/A Build
    http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127680

  8. #8
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EG5 B18C7
    thanks for the input guys . yeah i was thinking of doing it backwards for some odd reason . head work and fix all bolt ons .

    Most likely gonna change my Jays intake for a CAI and change my full exhaust , decent set of headers with a better exhaust .

    in terms of bolt ons , any suggestions ?
    " MY VTECC GOES BWAHHHHHHHH BAHHHHHHH BWA BWA BWAAHHHHHHH "

  9. #9
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Kermit K20A
    CAI, 4-2-1 headers (toda, mugen, j's racing etc) with 2.25 or 2.5in cat back exhaust, 100 cel cat, bigger throttle body match ported to inlet manifold, walbro intank fuel pump & tune
    Kermit EGK20A
    Winton: 1:35.08
    Wakefield: 1:08.8

  10. #10
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EG5 B18C7
    Quote Originally Posted by stndrd View Post
    CAI, 4-2-1 headers (toda, mugen, j's racing etc) with 2.25 or 2.5in cat back exhaust, 100 cel cat, bigger throttle body match ported to inlet manifold, walbro intank fuel pump & tune
    (Y) thanks . LOL
    " MY VTECC GOES BWAHHHHHHHH BAHHHHHHH BWA BWA BWAAHHHHHHH "

  11. #11
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    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    Quote Originally Posted by joeyybruh View Post
    thanks for the input guys . yeah i was thinking of doing it backwards for some odd reason . head work and fix all bolt ons .

    Most likely gonna change my Jays intake for a CAI and change my full exhaust , decent set of headers with a better exhaust .

    in terms of bolt ons , any suggestions ?

    IMO screw internals just swap the block for a B20 lol

  12. #12
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Kermit K20A
    Quote Originally Posted by dougie_504 View Post
    IMO screw internals just swap the block for a B20 lol
    +1 then stick a turbo on it. Boost fixes everything
    Kermit EGK20A
    Winton: 1:35.08
    Wakefield: 1:08.8

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