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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by IV73CI View Post
    If you need guidance speak to one of the fellaz who have experience in these builds ;

    Adrian, Dyno Dave, BYP boys etc etc

    Im sure they can direct u to the righteous path ..



    Hellelujah!! Amen!!
    thanks I do have some guidance from one of the following, although i would like to get more advice and other peoples thoughts and opinions.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by IV73CI View Post
    If you need guidance speak to one of the fellaz who have experience in these builds ;

    Adrian, Dyno Dave, BYP boys etc etc

    Im sure they can direct u to the righteous path ..

    Hellelujah!! Amen!!
    I dont think BYP have ever BUILT a B20 they where using Daves engines

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by CIV16A View Post
    I dont think BYP have ever BUILT a B20 they where using Daves engines
    Yeah your right. Cause i dont recommend a highly built B20 to anyone. Most people jump straight over to K-series. Unless your a die-hard B-series fans, please do more research

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by CIV16A View Post
    hahahah nice one

    So what kind of power are you making with that setup and has it given you any troubles, would you say it's reliable?
    it is reliable ..i use it as my daily ..no problems yet.. seems stable and goes strong as you put your foot down!

    Quote Originally Posted by CIV16A View Post
    I dont think BYP have ever BUILT a B20 they where using Daves engines
    yeh tru but they were exposed to alot of DD expertise and advise during the build & run in etc.. (correct me if im wrong)
    Last edited by IV73CI; 23-01-2012 at 07:52 PM.
    B to BFrank to K .... ive had it ......

  5. #5
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    Looks like you'll be spending at least 15-20k on just motor and bolt-ons

    With that kind of budget, put it towards a built K-series. You'll be running rings around the B20vtec

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benson View Post
    Looks like you'll be spending at least 15-20k on just motor and bolt-ons

    With that kind of budget, put it towards a built K-series. You'll be running rings around the B20vtec
    **** benny i want a k series now ..u let me down homie! LOL ahha jkz..
    B to BFrank to K .... ive had it ......

  7. #7
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    what lap times would your EG be doing if you spent the same money on gear ratio's, wheels/tires and aero upgrades that you have on your K powered eg?

    YES i would have gone K and will do down the track but with the offer that has been made for this engine gearbox deal you could not even do a STD K24 swap.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by CIV16A View Post
    what lap times would your EG be doing if you spent the same money on gear ratio's, wheels/tires and aero upgrades that you have on your K powered eg?

    YES i would have gone K and will do down the track but with the offer that has been made for this engine gearbox deal you could not even do a STD K24 swap.
    No where near the K- powered EG. There is alot of variable you need to take in account. Our latest built car doing 1:03.0 around Wakefield with a K24 naturally aspirated says it all.

  9. #9
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    Ok not to be rude but can we drop the b vs k stuff, i posted this thread to gain more knowledge and information on building a b20 thanks

  10. #10
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    ^^^back to OP,

    B20vtec if built right = reliable, torquey, goes vtakk hard! Lol

    B18c stroked to 2.0L = reliable, goes vtakk hard, clears defects.. Hehe

    Fck defects, if u dont drive like a hoon on the streets and have engineers u shouldnt have any issues.

    Just make sure you build your motor to the specs its going to last you and be reliable all rounder.

    Its like putting a horse in the boot of a car.. If it doesnt fit or the space is maxed out - just dont push it any harder. Coz if u do, you will weaken the walls of the engine block.

    Example: a dy16y4 1.6L motor was built from bottom to top for turbo spec, stroked to 1.7L for reliability and to make the engine last. Stroking to 1.8L was going to be unreliable due to watever reasons at the time. Get my drift/vtakk yo? Lol

    Thats my two cents for this post..

    Also.. Since this is a b18 block stroking for a B20 build then the title should be B18 strOked to 2.0L vtec build. Heheeh
    Last edited by IV73CI; 23-01-2012 at 09:45 PM.
    B to BFrank to K .... ive had it ......

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by IV73CI View Post
    ^^^back to OP,

    B20vtec if built right = reliable, torquey, goes vtakk hard! Lol

    B18c stroked to 2.0L = reliable, goes vtakk hard, clears defects.. Hehe

    Fck defects, if u dont drive like a hoon on the streets and have engineers u shouldnt have any issues.

    Just make sure you build your motor to the specs its going to last you and be reliable all rounder.

    Its like putting a horse in the boot of a car.. If it doesnt fit or the space is maxed out - just dont push it any harder. Coz if u do, you will weaken the walls of the engine block.

    Example: a dy16y4 1.6L motor was built from bottom to top for turbo spec, stroked to 1.7L for reliability and to make the engine last. Stroking to 1.8L was going to be unreliable due to watever reasons at the time. Get my drift/vtakk yo? Lol

    Thats my two cents for this post..

    Also.. Since this is a b18 block stroking for a B20 build then the title should be B18 strOked to 2.0L vtec build. Heheeh
    Cheers mate thanks for the information

  12. #12
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    As Adrian said, why a 86mm, its a 1 life block then, go 85mm, at 1 mm, the power difference would be not that much in capacity lost and then you have 3 builds from the block sleeving you have just forked out for. I have some parts that would probably suit your build, so if your still looking for bits, PM me.

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