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  1. #1
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Car:
    Integra *True* R

    Changing Front Brake Pads - DC2R

    Firstly, these instructions are provided for your guide only - no responsibility taken by Ozhonda or myself in case of injury/damage.

    STEP ONE: For your own comfort park the car in a cool, shady spot.

    STEP TWO: Firmly set the parking/hand brake for safety and block the rear wheels so that the car won't roll once you jack it up.

    STEP THREE: Now before jacking the car up off the ground, loosen the lug nuts on the wheels just enough to break them free. Then jack the car up.

    CAUTION: Never attempt to work on an elevated vehicle held in place only by a hydraulic jack - always use jack stands.

    STEP FOUR: Remove the lug nuts and then the wheel. Place the wheel underneath the car (in between the jack stands). In the event of a faulty jack stand the wheel will break the vehicle's fall reducing damage and possibly saving your life.

    STEP FIVE: You should now be looking at a caliper, a rotor, two brake pads (one on either side of the rotor) and some bolts and clips that hold it all together. Now loosen the two bolts holding the caliper in place Picture 2. Remove the bottom bolt.

    STEP SIX: Flip the caliper open and inspect inside. See the pads? Remove them, they slide right out. Be sure to separate the "Shim" from the brake pad on the outside (the one closest to you). Inspect the brake pads and rotor.

    STEP SEVEN: Using a C clamp, you must move the piston back to its full open position. The piston is the round metal cylinder in Picture 3 below.

    STEP EIGHT: Place the "Shim" onto the new brake pad and reassemble the system in reverse order.

    Before driving the car you must apply pressure to the brake pedal several times. This will push the piston --> brake pads --> rotor. Ensure that your brakes are working before going for a test drive.

    Picture 1
    Link Removed

    Picture 2


    Picture 3
    Last edited by r`Geno; 10-08-2005 at 06:45 AM.
    For Sale: Sold

  2. #2
    Good write up steve

  3. #3
    its been done(by myself lol) ...and WRONG section *moved*

    nice update tho.

  4. #4
    Needs more time... Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Blog Entries
    12
    Nice work Steve........just thought I might mention that when you push the piston back in with the clamp.....you might need to empty some of the brake fluid from the reservoire as the level goes up.
    Got a question? Check out the FAQ - http://www.ozhonda.com/go/faq

  5. #5
    TRAVDM Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    BNE, Q
    Car:
    Lots of Hondas
    cool mate
    oh wrd!

  6. #6
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    sydney
    Car:
    ep3r
    good for a DIY

    but frankly...when changing new pads i believe its pretty important to get your rotors machined to get rid of old brakepad material as well as to correct any imperfections...

    tho obviously can't really be done as a DIY unless you own a machiner

  7. #7
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    NSW
    Car:
    EG6ish
    exact same deal with an EG, did i on the weekend, BUT i didnt have a c clamp, so i had to puch the piston back in with a socket wrench

  8. #8
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    AP1 S2000
    What is the best method to push back the piston if you dont have a C-clamp?

    Nevermind! probably could have been done by hand. I bought a clamp tool from repco.

    Wasnt as hard as i expected!
    Last edited by l3vnd1; 31-12-2008 at 04:09 PM.
    "Power is nothing without control" - Peter Tyson (Pirelli)

    thethrillofdriving.blogspot.com

  9. #9
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    EG hatch
    hey just thought id note you can use an old brake pad when pushing the piston back into the calliper rather then using the edge or back for the piston itself because you dont want the piston going back in on an angle or it will damage the piston and/or calliper housing and leak!
    And as for easiest way to put it back in without a clamp would be to open the bleed nipple a little (half to 1 turn) then push back the piston, the excess fluid will come out of the nipple instead of overflowing the reservoir.(NOTE: the harder you push the piston back in, the further the brake fluid will spray out the nipple so continue with caution!) and remember to retighten the bleed nipple after the piston is back in.
    If it aint VTEC .........Fix it!!

  10. #10
    I think one thing everyone forgot to mention is that when pushing the piston back, you must do so with the utmost care and do it slowly and easy.

    too fast or pushing it back not straight, you have the chance of ****ing up the piston seals.

    good luck everyone.

  11. #11
    Thanks alot for this!!

    First time ive changed pads and wont be the last.
    The only comment I'd add is when using the clamp- if your clamp doesnt cover both sides of the piston- use a flat spanner or similar across the piston and then clamp over that? Might be over the top , I just figure better to have even pressure for the seals?

    And search/google for how to bed. I didnt machine rotors , they were still good, and 8-10 x med/hard 50-70 - 10km/hr worked well

  12. #12
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Car:
    DC2R
    where do you put the axle stands on the dc2r?

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