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Originally Posted by DakDak
Hi just a question,
I bought some Autoglym paint renovator. I was planning to remove the spider webs and craters I got in my paint.
I did it by hand, and there was little effect. I gave it a good whack. Then with the resin polish, extra gloss protection then wax.
Am I missing something?
Hey mate,
To remove any spider webs/holograms etc off the paintwork (unsure what you mean by craters?) you would require a machine correction to remove this. Once this is done you only need to re-apply your protection (Wax/Synthetic Wax) on-going to protect the paint and give it some depth/gloss.
But with the products you used and by hand unfortunately you won't get much of a result due to the hard paintwork! Pre-90 model cars with acrylic maybe, but newer cars unfortunately not
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Thanks for your quick reply.
Just to clarify, I have a black jdm Nissan Silvia S15 Spec R. Is it true Jap paint is thinner? 1 coat black paint two coats clear?
As for craters I dont really know what they are called, but it looks like rain water droplets that have oxidised or something and left an imprint.
I think I'll borrow my mates buffer, and check out your buffing vids again.
Not really confident.
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Originally Posted by DakDak
Thanks for your quick reply.
Just to clarify, I have a black jdm Nissan Silvia S15 Spec R. Is it true Jap paint is thinner? 1 coat black paint two coats clear?
As for craters I dont really know what they are called, but it looks like rain water droplets that have oxidised or something and left an imprint.
I think I'll borrow my mates buffer, and check out your buffing vids again.
Not really confident.
The marks in the paint are called water etch marks, and unfortunately you cannot always remove them 100%. Can be 10-95% once you machine correct the paintwork but its always hard to say how much you will remove.
Ensure you using a Dual Action Random Orbital so you cannot harm/burn the paintwork and take your time. The paint is thinner but you will have no problems for example with the DAS6 doing the work!
Remember to always clay prior to the correction/machine work to remove all contaminants off the paint if you have not done do within the last 8-12 months.
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Thanks a lot mate!
Hopefully I dont stuff it up.
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Originally Posted by DakDak
Thanks a lot mate!
Hopefully I dont stuff it up.
All good! Need any help or instructions please just let us know!
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here's what i do/what products i use
1. Hose it down to get the loose crap off (using water)
2. Soap up all the panels from top to bottom using teh 2 bucket method (cheapo soap, i think it's armor all wash and wax)
3. Soap up the windows using the 2 bucket method (same soap)
4. rinse off everything (water)
5. chamois it down, check for bits i missed, resoap and rinse those areas
6. soap up and rinse off the wheels (same soap). I just use a sponge for this, as it seems to work better than a specific "wheel brush"
7. apply wax (megs cleaner wax) and buff off
Sometimes i go a bit further and strip the wax with a little bit of detergent, clay it, then rewax it
S P A M | W O R K S
hehe.
PHC
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there are some minor pollution stains on the front and rear bumper. cant really tell but one you get in close, its like those smudge marks.
can i get this off with a hand polish?
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Originally Posted by curtis265
here's what i do/what products i use
1. Hose it down to get the loose crap off (using water)
2. Soap up all the panels from top to bottom using teh 2 bucket method (cheapo soap, i think it's armor all wash and wax)
3. Soap up the windows using the 2 bucket method (same soap)
4. rinse off everything (water)
5. chamois it down, check for bits i missed, resoap and rinse those areas
6. soap up and rinse off the wheels (same soap). I just use a sponge for this, as it seems to work better than a specific "wheel brush"
7. apply wax (megs cleaner wax) and buff off
Sometimes i go a bit further and strip the wax with a little bit of detergent, clay it, then rewax it
By soaping you mean actually washing?
Few suggestions if i can!
You definitely should consider grabbing a good pH Neutral Wash (which is surprisingly cheap) but will also leave a better overall finish after rinsing/drying the car. A Microfibre Wash Mitt or Lambswool, and a Microfibre Chamois (not pva, or leather) or otherwise a Microfibre Waffle Weave Drying Towel.
You only realistically need to clay every 8-12 months and also if you get a product with some good durability (6-10 months protection) you won't need to re-apply or "wax" the car that often. However a natural carnauba based wax would need to be re-applied every 2/3 months
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Originally Posted by butterfingers
there are some minor pollution stains on the front and rear bumper. cant really tell but one you get in close, its like those smudge marks.
can i get this off with a hand polish?
Pollution stains? Do you have any pictures?
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Originally Posted by CarCareProducts
Pollution stains? Do you have any pictures?
its just some smudges that cant be washed off. very light
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smudges? could be great marks maybe? If its black likely could be tar/road grime and maybe use something like Stoner Tarminator to remove!
Get some good protection over the car to stop things from adhering as easily on the paintwork!
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Cheers for that
I'll invest in a new soap after this one runs out lol.
I don't clay often, roughly once yearly.
i apply the wax roughly once a month, i like the feel of it.
S P A M | W O R K S
hehe.
PHC
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