DIY : 60mm Water/Oil temp and Pressure gauge install on a DC5

[maracer]

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!


AIM – To have additional gauges inside the car that work of their own sensors.
The car I’m installing them in, is my DC5 Integra Type S

TOOLS – there’re a lot of tools used for this install…..I’ll try to list them as I go through the steps.

SPEP 1 – you’ll need gauges……. & various other parts in order to make the gauges work.
I brought mine all from the EBAY, 60mm type.

http://stores.ebay.com.au/gaugetuner...id=p4340.l2563

So have all these before you start!


STEP 2 – Installing the radiator adaptor.
You’ll need 35mm adaptor, Sharp Stanley knife, Phillips head screw driver, multi grips/pliers, size 12mm spanner, HONDA 3 way liquid bond (for water temp sensor) HONDA radiator coolant & 42mm radiator hose clamps.


Check to see the best location for the adaptor to go. Remember that the sensor & wires need to run of this so it needs to be in a location easiest to get too.


I marked mine here.....well a few times just getting it rite. I cut off about 10mm. before removing the radiator hose to cut.

Take off the radiator cap. We need to drain out some radiator coolant, so when we take the hose off coolant won’t spill everywhere.


I had already taken my front bar off….as it was in the way of the radiator drain plug. I’m not to sure with the OEM one because I no longer have so you might no need to re-move it?
I drained out about 1 litre of coolant.



Before I added the adaptor, I screwed on the water temp sensor….remember to put on the HONDA 3 way bond on thread to make sure it doesn’t leak.



Once this is installed just top up with some new coolant.



STEP 3 – Oil sandwich plate to allow for oil temp sensor & Oil pressure sensor.
Motor Oil, Oil filter, 12mm spanner
Now this procedure is the same as if you were to change your motor oil.
Jack the car up, put stands under car make sure all is safe!
Remove your oil cap, undo oil drain bolt, remove oil filter.



Do a check fit to see where the best location is for installing the sensors.


Once this has been determined, screw in both sensors. Remember to put the HONDA 3 way bond on threads to stop any oil leaking! Also don't forget to fill the engine with oil once it's all done.



STEP 4 – Run all the sensor wires in to car.

As I do this I’ll be also running a power wire (RED) from positive (+) battery & parker wire (BROWN) witch i just spliced in from my existing daytime running led lights. plus the radiator sensor wires too.

All the wires got fed through here. Just 1 at a time, taped to a coat-hanger......



The oil pressure & temp wires I kept them together ran them along here.

[maracer]

STEP 5 – Line up the gauges to where you want? All of the Gauges came with stands for them & double sided tape to stick them down. But I’m using this one for a DC5



This is how it looks from underneath.
Each gauge has the appropriate power source plug & sender plug. Making sure you connect the rite sender plug to it's appropriate gauge.




STEP 6 - Since all of the wires exiting out of the gauge require the same source I tired them all up like this.



All these wires shown here (ABOVE PIC) are coming from the gauges.
I then connect the appropriate wires too them.



The (BLACK) wire needs to be earthed.
I just found a good spot underneath the glove box.



The last 2 wires to be connected are the (ORANGE) & (YELLOW)
These 2 get connected to the in car fuse box. Under dash drivers side.

I used this.

It's like a double adapter! Keeping your OEM fuse in 1 slot and the new fuse in the other.
There is no need for splicing wires. makes the job of sourcing power from a fuse box easy.

ORANGE wire needs constant ON power.
YELLOW wire needs to be connected to the Accessories.



These spots for the fuses are the first 2 slots, bottom row starting from the left.

Now you are pretty much done!
Start the car to see if they all work.
Just keep in mind that the Water/Oil temp gauges won’t show a reading straight away as the car will be cold and will need time to warm-up.




With lights ON.


I hope this helps some of you guys n gals ever wanting to attempt this, not really that hard just need good planning before you start.
Happy to answer any question or if needed any additional pictures uploaded that may make it easier to understand.

[maracer]

Here is a Video of them working.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmYsUUb5TvA

You will also notice when I turn the lights how they dim to adjust for night driving.

[r3ckless]

Looking great mario!

[lemmm]

i like it +1

[mugen_ctr]

Looking good, but u need to hide the wiring lol, run it behind the dash, it will look much cleaner

[maracer]

Thanks Guys
Yep, Wiring has been hidden since those pictures had been taken.
.......Put them through the dash…..

[JDM-BOY]

looks MAD............... might do to my EG

+1

[exquisit]

where did you get those double fuse adaptor holder things from?

also, does it retain use of both fuses?
or only the lower amperage one?

[maracer]

where did you get those double fuse adaptor holder things from?

also, does it retain use of both fuses?
or only the lower amperage one?

It holds both fuses
got them from this guy on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ADD-A-CIR...item2eb49c09ed

Best things ever, I got about 10 of them.....because when I went asking around Autoelec's, was like WTF am I on about.

[exquisit]

no no i mean i kno it holds both fuses... but does the original fuse still work and does the 2nd fuse work seperately?
eg. if you put a 2nd 7.5A fuse on a 30A original fuse slot, will it keep blowing the 7.5A?
cheers
=)

[DCZ 18C]

do they do the needle dance from the box or do you have to set it..?
looks awesome

so how much did this set up cost you in total..?