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Originally Posted by bboyzell
The Weight of the Traction bar itself was around the same weight as the factory x-member, possibly a fraction lighter than the factory x-member
Well that's a little worrying.
The front crossmember is very light for it's size, and as you found out.. It isn't exactly tough lol.
Keep an eye on the joints, make sure they don't develop any play.
I don't understand the jerking feeling you get in the lower gears though.. My Trac' Bar feels almost as smooth as standard, and wheelspin is flawless.. No wheel hop at all.
It's not 4x4 status, think of it as "Winter Mode".
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Originally Posted by Jccck
The front crossmember is very light for it's size, and as you found out.. It isn't exactly tough lol.
Its light because of its construction type. As apposed to a massive chunk of straight steel, it uses the shape of the pressed sheetmetal to be both light and rigid.
I could probably guarantee the OEM cross member is stronger, whilst still being lighter than anything aftermarket. You can't really say its not tough because it cracked after it had been butchered.
Last edited by markismaximus; 05-05-2012 at 02:51 PM.
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Originally Posted by Jccck
Keep an eye on the joints, make sure they don't develop any play.
i had a traction bar/radius kit, on my DA9 from avid racing, that i bought from JDM Yard for $500. it developed heaps of play in the radius rod's within a few week's. i quickly pissed it off and went back to OEM. think 'bout it? its all solid part's. eventually with the twisting forces on the chassis. it will inevitably gain play in the ball joints at either end of the radius rod's. as it's not supported by the rubber bushes supplied by the OEM design.
just my experience.
touge is my style, F@CK your style!
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Originally Posted by Touge Tom
i had a traction bar/radius kit, on my DA9 from avid racing, that i bought from JDM Yard for $500. it developed heaps of play in the radius rod's within a few week's. i quickly pissed it off and went back to OEM. think 'bout it? its all solid part's. eventually with the twisting forces on the chassis. it will inevitably gain play in the ball joints at either end of the radius rod's. as it's not supported by the rubber bushes supplied by the OEM design.
just my experience.
Obviously the 'rigid' design is more harsh than the OEM's version.
And ofcourse your average piece of china garbage isn't going to hold up to it.
Quality products last, and mine seems to be fine after 2000k's of spirited driving.
Some extreme 4x4's, offroad buggies, etc use similar joints on their suspension because they don't limit suspension travel, and because they take a pounding and don't wear out.
I think a bit of hard cornering and the occasional pothole aren't going to worry them.
That said, i can't vouch for the quality of the joints on my ESP Trac' Bar until i've done many more KM's.
Reviews are great, and i see many on CB7Tuner have used and loved them.
It's not the design of a solid radius/trac' bar system that is the flaw.. The only flaw is having bad parts.
It's not 4x4 status, think of it as "Winter Mode".
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Originally Posted by Jccck
Obviously the 'rigid' design is more harsh than the OEM's version.
And ofcourse your average piece of china garbage isn't going to hold up to it.
Quality products last, and mine seems to be fine after 2000k's of spirited driving.
Some extreme 4x4's, offroad buggies, etc use similar joints on their suspension because they don't limit suspension travel, and because they take a pounding and don't wear out.
I think a bit of hard cornering and the occasional pothole aren't going to worry them.
That said, i can't vouch for the quality of the joints on my ESP Trac' Bar until i've done many more KM's.
Reviews are great, and i see many on CB7Tuner have used and loved them.
It's not the design of a solid radius/trac' bar system that is the flaw.. The only flaw is having bad parts.
please write the review when you gotta replace the ball joints on the radius rod's, and @ what klm's?
touge is my style, F@CK your style!
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