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  1. #25
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    Sydney
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    EK CIVIC
    So when Honda recommend 5W-30 for their motors they are just messing around?
    OHSC

  2. #26
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    Apr 2009
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    Melbourne S.E
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    D15BSwappedEM1.
    i use olive oil.
    Originally Posted by charliebrown
    And whoever said my gsi is overpriced... you got NO idea mate. GSis go for 13k+

  3. #27
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    Mar 2012
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    Ipswich Qld
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    Crx Del Sol
    Quote Originally Posted by senna View Post
    So when Honda recommend 5W-30 for their motors they are just messing around?
    No that's very possibly what their calculations and tests came up with in the 90s engine oils have come along way since then. Same with the capabilities of engines. Seriously give 'bob the oil guy' a read if you disagree then that's your opinion.

    And also, adding thicker oil to stop a engine burning oil is one of the worst things you can do. The thicker oil dose not lubricate as well. Its much better to fix the problem and continue using the correct oil.

    Also magnetic has to be one of the worst oils on the market

  4. #28
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    Jan 2008
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    EM1 -> DC2R
    Check ur PCV valve, if not check your piston rings, fix. Using 5w-30 RP, doesnt move at all between 5,000 Km oil changes.

  5. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T View Post
    The numbers are the viscosity/thickness or speed of flow through viscometer.The 2nd number being at 100° C or general operating temp.

    Nothing to do with breaking down

    So 10W60 at operating temp. will be twice as thick as 10w30...not what I would want in a dc2r or any b series engine
    I run 10w60

    problem?

  6. #30
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    Oct 2004
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    www.alibaba.com
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    porsche boxster
    Actually yes

    An engine with thick oil produces significantly less power, uses more fuel, produces more emissions and runs hotter, all contributing to shorter engine life.
    A thinner oil can more easily and quickly be 'pumped-up' to the critical parts of the engine, takes less energy to move it around, helps the engine to produce more power, less emissions, better economy.
    And the engine will last longer too!
    This has been proven numerous times in test after test, by many different and highly respected testing facilities.

  7. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T View Post
    Actually yes

    An engine with thick oil produces significantly less power, uses more fuel, produces more emissions and runs hotter, all contributing to shorter engine life.
    A thinner oil can more easily and quickly be 'pumped-up' to the critical parts of the engine, takes less energy to move it around, helps the engine to produce more power, less emissions, better economy.
    And the engine will last longer too!
    This has been proven numerous times in test after test, by many different and highly respected testing facilities.
    Depends on the Motor's application and My motor requires 10w60.


  8. #32
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    Oct 2010
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    Melb
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    '03 Euro [CL9]
    Quote Originally Posted by senna View Post
    So when Honda recommend 5W-30 for their motors they are just messing around?
    B/D-series allows Xw-50 as max iirc and K-series can use from Xw-20 to Xw-40 max

    I see no reason what so ever for any K-series to use anything more than 40 weight however, due to our tight tolerances.


    Honda recommends 5w-30 partly because their OEM oil happens to be 5w-30.

    and partly because of our warn climate, theres no need for thicker oil, climate plays a factor too, for example, a Toyota Prius in Spain allows up to 10w-50, while in Sweden the limit is 5w-30.
    2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
    CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars

  9. #33
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    May 2007
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    sydney
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    black EF
    This is fun, always good to know,
    I'm using HPR 10 10w-40 in my 120,000km ZC. And it's 23 years old,
    Don't know how much oil it burns, cuz every oil change is about 6 month by drive 2000kms max.
    Any good?
    ________________________________

  10. #34
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    Feb 2011
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    Moore Park - Sydney
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    FD1-RR 2.7
    yeah the claim that 90% of engine wear occurs at start up is the buiggest load of marketing crap. If you jump in ya car and mash the pedal to the floor then this would be possible. I normally let my car idle 10-15sec whilst I belt up and select music, I then use at most 15-1800 revs til the guage is upto its normal spot.

  11. #35
    what they mean by most of engine wear is on start up is because the oil is cold and its at its thickest so its going to move slower throught the engine take longer time for oil to get up into the head so the parts furthest from the sump are being oil starved a little you could say, just like when you start up your car and try to hit v-tech when its cold it wont work coz the oils to thick to move through the oil galleries in the head

  12. #36
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    Oct 2010
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    Melb
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stevil View Post
    yeah the claim that 90% of engine wear occurs at start up is the buiggest load of marketing crap. If you jump in ya car and mash the pedal to the floor then this would be possible. I normally let my car idle 10-15sec whilst I belt up and select music, I then use at most 15-1800 revs til the guage is upto its normal spot.
    There is truth to it, but that's only really the case if you are in a cold climate and use thick oil like 15-20w-XX or more.

    Else there is really no problem.

    ... And what the guy above said.
    2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
    CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars

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