Few more questions about audio.

[90civicGL]

Another question, and cant promise its my last.

I was reading more about fuses today and some people said that at the distribution block, don't put in fuses that are higher then the added sum of fuses on your amp. Now 4 Ga wire needs 100-125A fuse, So my alpine amp has 4x 25A fuses so 100A is fine for it, but then the 2 ch amp I'm looking at only has x1 40A fuse, it states it accepts 4 ga wire input, so I will use that. But I guess the question is, can I still put a 100A fuse at the distribution block for the wire leading to the amp. I'm thinking yes as i'm fusing for the wire's rating not the amp. But just wanted to check and get your opinions on it.

[Drifter995]

You're good man, haha. Ask as many questions as you see fit. I find asking more questions better than asking none at all, and running the risk of blowing something up.

I'm not actually sure about the fuse question, so hopefully tbm can help you out xD
I would assume the fuse is to stop the wire from melting and catching fire, and the amp one is to stop it from blowing, etc... so in my messed up theory it wouldn't matter, but I don't know... so hopefully tbm can clear it up :>

[90civicGL]

Is there a limit to how big a MDF speaker spacer can be? Cause There are some components that are 4"s deep, so I would need a spacer of like 2"s to clear the windows. Would a MDF spacer hold up and still let the speakers sound decent?

[Drifter995]

Pretty sure the thickest is like 32mm, but you could a few and glue them together. Your only problem then would be your door trims... You'd most likely have to modify the trims to accommodate for the new speakers popping out

[TbM]

Another question, and cant promise its my last.

I was reading more about fuses today and some people said that at the distribution block, don't put in fuses that are higher then the added sum of fuses on your amp. Now 4 Ga wire needs 100-125A fuse, So my alpine amp has 4x 25A fuses so 100A is fine for it, but then the 2 ch amp I'm looking at only has x1 40A fuse, it states it accepts 4 ga wire input, so I will use that. But I guess the question is, can I still put a 100A fuse at the distribution block for the wire leading to the amp. I'm thinking yes as i'm fusing for the wire's rating not the amp. But just wanted to check and get your opinions on it.

Yes 100A fuse would be ok to use as its just for fusing the wire after the distro. Having a lower rated fuse just gives you a little extra safe guard, personally i would probably run a fuse rated around 40A-50A on that line that way if there is a problem the fuse will blow quicker than a 100a.

[90civicGL]

Yes 100A fuse would be ok to use as its just for fusing the wire after the distro. Having a lower rated fuse just gives you a little extra safe guard, personally i would probably run a fuse rated around 40A-50A on that line that way if there is a problem the fuse will blow quicker than a 100a.

Ok, cause since the amp doesn't take more then 40A, the line in also shouldn't exceed that, so a 50A fuse shouldn't blow unless there is a problem correct?

And then gluing 2 25mm MDF spacers together wouldn't put to much weight on the door or anything making it flex to much I hope. As for the grill I would cut it so the speaker can stick through, and get some of that Computer PC Case moding grommet striping and tidy it up with that. Reason I ask is I could a set of RE Audio XXX 6.5 comps (4" mounting depth) for $250 US. I wouldn't get a chance to listen to them, but they sell for $900 in aus, so its very temping. Or from an aus dealer I can get the Morel Tempos for $270 (dropped in price cause out of stock on the maximo's) or wait a couple weeks and maximo's for $205 aus.

Hopefully Ill get around to listening to the Morels sometime this week.

As for amp boston acoustic is pulling out of car audio, so big savings on some of their amp's over in the states.

[TbM]

Ok, cause since the amp doesn't take more then 40A, the line in also shouldn't exceed that, so a 50A fuse shouldn't blow unless there is a problem correct?

Yep

And then gluing 2 25mm MDF spacers together wouldn't put to much weight on the door or anything making it flex to much I hope. As for the grill I would cut it so the speaker can stick through, and get some of that Computer PC Case moding grommet striping and tidy it up with that. Reason I ask is I could a set of RE Audio XXX 6.5 comps (4" mounting depth) for $250 US. I wouldn't get a chance to listen to them, but they sell for $900 in aus, so its very temping. Or from an aus dealer I can get the Morel Tempos for $270 (dropped in price cause out of stock on the maximo's) or wait a couple weeks and maximo's for $205 aus.

Hopefully Ill get around to listening to the Morels sometime this week.

As for amp boston acoustic is pulling out of car audio, so big savings on some of their amp's over in the states.

Be careful buying speakers online, some hi-end brands are copied and sold cheap on ebay, i dont know if RE's are getting copied too but i know focals do, they do not allow online sales so you see someone selling them online whos not an authorised distributer and good chance they are fake. The price you quoted would lead me to question their authenticity.
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...ber-BEWARE-!!!

Internet sales policy... Focal-JMlab creates and distributes high-end speakers, loudspeakers and kits for the car. We take great care in the distribution of our products, our presentation, customer support, installation and after sale service are our number one priority. To make sure these high standards are kept we do not authorise the online sales of Focal products.

Products sold on the Internet have been obtained from questionable sources that do not meet Focal JMlab's quality standards. These products may be counterfeits. See our "Spotting a fake" article for more details.

We inform you that the warranty, after sales service and the support of these internet-sourced products will only be covered by the seller, and not by Focal. If you intend to buy genuine Focal products with Australian warranty, we advise you to get in touch with your authorised dealer as they will offer you time, advice and support.

I advise only buying from authorised dealers, copies are of much lower quality.

[90civicGL]

Yep


Be careful buying speakers online, some hi-end brands are copied and sold cheap on ebay, i dont know if RE's are getting copied too but i know focals do, they do not allow online sales so you see someone selling them online whos not an authorised distributer and good chance they are fake. The price you quoted would lead me to question their authenticity.
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...ber-BEWARE-!!!

I advise only buying from authorised dealers, copies are of much lower quality.

Yer am aware that there is a rising amount of copies out there. http://www.audiosavings.com/products...n/XXX6.5C.aspx This is the mob I was looking at as they have fair international shipping prices, and the amp I like at a good price.

I cant find a authorised dealers list on their site. But US forums seems to like the site, and there ebay reputation is outstanding. So I'd hope they wouldn't snoop that low. But i might shoot RE Audio an e-mail before ordering if I decide to go this route.

As for the morel's they would be from http://www.fhrxstudios.com/ or Beenliegh Autobarn if they could price match.

I'll have a read through that link tonight. Looks like it might have some good stuff in it.

[Drifter995]

If you're after an authorised re dealer, there is one in SA.. ampl audio. friend of mine owns the place. they deal with sundown too iirc.
But yes, fhrx are definitely a good place to deal with. great customer service, and they post and such. But yeah, if you're keen for the re stuff, send an email or call ampl and see if they post... you may be able to get something from them

[trism]

to add further to your question about the fuses, they arent there to protect the amp, thats what it has its own onboard fuses for.

The fuses on the cable are to protect the cable.

Lets say you run without a fuse.

You have a nice big thick 0 gauge cable from the battery up the front, all the way too the boot. And somehow, where it runs under the back seat, it moves around a bit, and rubs on metal, where it wears through the insulation and shorts out on the metal. Its going to flow uunlimited current from the battery. Overheats, melts the insulation, catches fire, burns the car to the ground.

This is why we fuse as close to the battery as possible, to reduce the amount of unprotected cable to no more than about 30cm.

Now, when it comes to a distro block, we are stepping down wire sizes, so the main fuse no longer protects it.

The main wire may be 0 gauge, so we put a 150amp fuse to protect it, but if we step down to 4gauge, then itll catch fire at more than about 100amp, so a 150 amp fuse isnt going to do shit. So we use a fused distro block with 60 amps fuses to protect the 4 gauge.

Ya dig?

[Bludger]

Ya dig?

your explanation is too complex for most ppl here.

[90civicGL]

to add further to your question about the fuses, they arent there to protect the amp, thats what it has its own onboard fuses for.

The fuses on the cable are to protect the cable.

Lets say you run without a fuse.

You have a nice big thick 0 gauge cable from the battery up the front, all the way too the boot. And somehow, where it runs under the back seat, it moves around a bit, and rubs on metal, where it wears through the insulation and shorts out on the metal. Its going to flow uunlimited current from the battery. Overheats, melts the insulation, catches fire, burns the car to the ground.

This is why we fuse as close to the battery as possible, to reduce the amount of unprotected cable to no more than about 30cm.

Now, when it comes to a distro block, we are stepping down wire sizes, so the main fuse no longer protects it.

The main wire may be 0 gauge, so we put a 150amp fuse to protect it, but if we step down to 4gauge, then itll catch fire at more than about 100amp, so a 150 amp fuse isnt going to do shit. So we use a fused distro block with 60 amps fuses to protect the 4 gauge.

Ya dig?

Yep, loud and clear, think I'm all set on fuses. So although 4ga is rated at a 125A fuse, would I put a 60A on so it blows quicker before damage gets done? Or would I stick a 80-100A since the alpine has 100A (so I'm guessing the alpine draws up to 60A of power or something) The boston only has a 40A fuse so a 60A would be fine for its run of cable.