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  1. #1
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    NSW
    Car:
    K20 DC2

    B16a2 Stage 2 Cam Question..

    I'm wanting to upgrade to stage 2 cams. I already have I/H/E. What else will I need? Valves and Valvesprings? Retainers? Throttlebody?

    Also what is a nice affordable brand? I have been looking at Brian Crower, anyone heard/used them before?

    Also is there much of a power difference between stage 1 and 2?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    What engine? B16A?

    I recommend adjustable cam gears, springs and retainers, oem valves are good, ported head with matched manifolds, maybe larger TB/IM if you want (ITR setup is a nice upgrade for b16a).

    Tunable ECU.

    Stage differences depend on the brand. Skunk2 makes decent B-series stuff. Brian Crower is good.

    Generally I think stage one is good for street driving so you dont have to completely thrash your car all the time to get the power. Stage 2 is probably fine though it depends on how you want the car to drive.


    If I were you the first things I would do are an ITR 4.7FD GBox with OEM LSD, as well as a HD clutch/lightened flywheel setup. Probably feel better than a head build.

  3. #3
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    Also, having done a full head build myself, next time round I would rather just run the standard head but swap the block to a b20. Probably cost less too and go much harder down low.

  4. #4
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    VIC
    Car:
    EK4 Facelift
    Probably a good idea to bump up the compression a couple of pts..maybe thinner HG.

    Or if you wanna go all out get get high comp pistons.

    Need high compression to take full advantage of cams.

  5. #5
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    Just take a bit off the head when you port it IMO, leave the pistons alone for now.

  6. #6
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    NSW
    Car:
    K20 DC2
    I added everything up to build the head, it seems alot cheaper to just go b20 bottom (or Frankenstein or something?) and my head, using some b16b/b18c internals? would that be better?

  7. #7
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    kings langly
    Car:
    jdm b16a civic
    B20 would be better... Just keep in mind you have to get it engineered for insurance purposes

  8. #8
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    Find an engine builder to talk to about it mate.

    Standard internals from a b16a head on a b20 will still rock man.

    I'd just ask them to shave a bit off to bump the compression when they slap it together.

  9. #9
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Kermit K20A
    Just stick a nice size turbo kit on it =]
    Kermit EGK20A
    Winton: 1:35.08
    Wakefield: 1:08.8

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by stndrd View Post
    Just stick a nice size turbo kit on it =]
    best option.

    no point pissfarting around with N/a

    unless you're a P plater.

  11. #11
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    NSW
    Car:
    K20 DC2
    Yea I would like to stick a nice turbo on it, but you guessed it, I'm on my P's. Does anyone know any reputable Honda engine builders around Sydney/Western Sydney?

  12. #12
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Kermit K20A
    For B series engines, talk to Adrian from Toda AU
    Kermit EGK20A
    Winton: 1:35.08
    Wakefield: 1:08.8

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