94/5 civic VTI EH9 - Changed Coil, Rotor, cap - Still issues

[Gemma]

Hi Everyone,
I've been searching everywhere on here and although I have read many posts with similar issues, I haven't actually seen anyone post that they have fixed the problem.

About 2 weeks ago my car stalled whilst in idle. Then again whilst driving in
2nd gear.

With a little help from this forum and people with more knowledge than me, went over a few things to check where the problem is:
- Cleaned the Idle air control valve
- Cleaned the Fast idle thermo valve
- Cleaned out the throttle body
- Replaced the plugs
- Tested the spark leads (all within spec)

After all this, the car then wouldn't fire up. She would crank but not fire up. Last night did the following:
- Replaced coil, rotor and cap
She cranked over and fired up with a good idle, but she was missing and you could smell fuel.
Thinking it might be the timing, started to adjust it (with a timing light). She now cranks and fires up but doesn't last long before dying again, which is making doing the timing difficult.

My question is, after doing all this, is the timing really the issue? Could it be the fuel pump? or something else?

Please help!!!!

[ericl33]

is it running on less than 4 cylinders?

you need to check all related ignition wiring.

ECU to dizzy harness > spark plugs. in in doubt, replace.

If you're not missing cylindrrs and it just randomly dies, check the ignition key barrel. (worn)

how old are the leads?

If they're old, i would be inclined to replace them.

take out the injectors, they're all getting fuel right?

[Gemma]

Heya,

Thanks for the reply.

Running on all 4 Cylinders.

Ignition wiring has been checked and is all good.

The ECU is operating and throwing a warning light if a sensor is removed.

The ignition key barrell is not a problem. The electrics all stay on when it stalls.

The leads are old, however well with in spec when tested.

Taking out the injectors is a little beyond me and I don't want to do any damage. If all else fails, I will have to check it out.

When the car starts, it runs, stalls and I can smell fuel. Then it's hard to start again unless I leave it for an hour or so. That says to me that the injectors are getting fuel, right? Please forgive my ignorance?

Thanks again, hey.

[SuiJin]

Gemma change the main relay

[Gemma]

Hi Suijin,
I've checked the relay and there doesn't appear to be any dry solder joints.
But she is old, so I won't rule that out?

[zhong]

If you have a soldering iron - just re-solder the joints to ensure maximum conductivity. These main relays are a PITA at times.

When you do manage to start it - can you feather the gas to keep it on? Or would it just have no effect and cause it to stall? If so - It's most likely the relay not staying on and causing your fuel pump to turn off.

And with the timing of the dizzy - leave the bolts loose and have someone turn the key for you when you clock it in various positions - leave and secure the bolts when your car cranks/fires up good - should sound like ERH EH EH VROOM (lol).

Goodluck!

[Gemma]

HI Zhong,

Thanks for that! Yeah, putting on he gas just caused it to stall! From what you discribed I hope we're on a winner.

At the footy at the moment, so will def try the soldering when I get home.

Will keep you informed.

[SuiJin]

When you do manage to start it - can you feather the gas to keep it on? Or would it just have no effect and cause it to stall? If so - It's most likely the relay not staying on and causing your fuel pump to turn off.

That relay is usually the main relay either way. lol.

[ericl33]

re-soldier main relay anyway.

injectors are easy, just undo the fuel rail bolts.