Dodgy Sound Deadening your doors

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TbM - you know with your door cards what did u do to them to fit the mdf spacers with the speakers

[TbM]

Thanks mate, this really helped a lot. I just recieeved my bulk of dynamat today. Would this be enough to do my 2 front doors and boot lid?

and... would it be ok if i just stuck the dynamat straight over the service holes? Cant see myself using a electric saw cutting those MDF shapes

Cheers
Simon

yeh it should be plenty i did my doors and roof with a bulk pack.

just dynamat is better than nothing but you should use mdf.

think tape is even easier than bolts

just that cutting wood is a pain the the buns. Dont wanna buy or go near an electric saw. Would cutting pieces off say a hard binder folder do the job? Its like semi cardboard/woodish.
and just dynamat over it?

ive seen people on youtube just lay dynamat right over the wholes without covering them, seems like TMB is doing more which seems right..

or any other alternatives? Thanks guys

its 3mm mdf you can cut it with a hand saw easily if you dont have electric saw. you can use plastic but it would need to be thick enough to not flex.

wont tape rattle? but yes, alot easier than bolts

no, tape doesnt rattle

TbM - you know with your door cards what did u do to them to fit the mdf spacers with the speakers

cut them to fit around the spacer and trimmed the egdes off the top of the spacers.

i think i explained it in this thread
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...onda-Civic-Ek1

[TbM]

BlaBla i found this in my sent items i think it explains it more, if you need more info let me know, i didnt take alot of pics sorry as i just did it quickly to get my speakers mounted.

What ill do is cover the basics of how to install it then if you have any questions or if im not making something clear let me know and ill explain more.


I simply mounted a 6.5 inch x 1 inch mdf spacer to the door by countersinking 3 screws through the factory screw holes that hold the door trim around the speaker(those 3 screw holes around the speaker hole).

once that was mounted i cut the door plastic out so i could start test fitting, you need to cut out the section around the speaker so it will fit over the spacer.


You just roughly cut it out then put the door trim back on the door and see if/where the spacer is hitting the door panel, if somethings hitting trim it off, i took the top edges off my spacers so i wouldnt have to cut off as much plastic. sorry for the poor pic but if you can see where the wood has been exposed on the spacer thats where ive cut it but once you line up your panel you will see where you need to cut.


keep trimming untill your door panel fits back on then your done, first door took me a little bit but once you know how much you need to cut out the next is much quicker, i used a retractable razor blade to trim the door.


This should give you 75 ish mm depth to the window if i recall correctly, which should be enough to fit most speakers,

[aurnob88]

Most people could skip on the diffuser as most wouldn't notice the difference. I'd say the Dynamat and sealing the doors to create a resonant chamber for increased midbass and overall frequency output integrity would make the biggest difference.

Also, the mounting and sealing of the speaker to the door through MDF should make a good difference.