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  1. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by TbM View Post
    As Trism has said, deadening the doors is mainly for the speakers, if your trying to reduce road noise you can use the dynapad hes recommended and you can also deaden the wheel archs with brush on deadener, ive deadened the archs on my car and it helped alot.
    [IMG]http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j480/tbmindustrys2/IMAG0155.jpg
    Thanks alot for your insight. May consider a full sound proofing of the wheel arches, trunk, doors, and maybe even the headliner. Depending on how much time/finance i have

  2. #14
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    K20 nugget
    repped! How much did it end up costing you?

  3. #15
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    835 Beaufort St
    Car:
    hondie 2000
    great work!!

    I've always been meaning to ask - wtf is that gluey shit, and what's that piece of plastic for?
    S P A M | W O R K S
    hehe.
    PHC


  4. #16
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Brisbane Qld
    Car:
    2 Tonne Ek Tank
    Quote Originally Posted by androo View Post
    repped! How much did it end up costing you?
    hard to say as i bought a bulk pack of dynamat and used the left over to do the roof and boot ect. the bulk pack was about 220 delivered and i used 6 out of the 9 sheets on the doors, i used more than you need to and also have a 2 door civic so the doors are larger than average so you can get away with using less. they have door kits which cost less and is enough to do most doors.

    The 3mm mdf and the other bits and piecies are cheap and i had alot of them lying around anyway so dunno how much they cost.

    dynaxorb pads were about $40 iirc
    "I have no idols. I admire work, dedication and competence." - Ayrton Senna


  5. #17
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    BB AP1
    Wow
    How much did you spend on dynamats?

    Edit: my bad didnt see the post above me

    Im guessing you got from amazon us??
    "A good tunning car has to be something you can take out to the streets. The car must be fun, fast, safe on all road condition "
    Keiichi Tsuchiya~

  6. #18
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Brisbane Qld
    Car:
    2 Tonne Ek Tank
    Quote Originally Posted by curtis265 View Post
    great work!!

    I've always been meaning to ask - wtf is that gluey shit, and what's that piece of plastic for?
    I have no idea what that glue stuff is called but it is one of the most annoying substances i have ever worked with, sticks to everything and is just ****ing annoying lol, as far as im aware its just there to hold the plastic weather shield in place.

    As far as im aware that piece of plastic is there to keep the water from getting in to the interior, your window seals will often leak a bit so if its not there you can get water coming in through your door trim.
    "I have no idols. I admire work, dedication and competence." - Ayrton Senna


  7. #19
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Brisbane Qld
    Car:
    2 Tonne Ek Tank
    Quote Originally Posted by manonastick View Post
    Wow
    How much did you spend on dynamats?

    Edit: my bad didnt see the post above me

    Im guessing you got from amazon us??
    i got it from elite electronics but i needed it in a rush so you can find cheaper places in the US if you can wait.
    Ive used 1 bulk pack so far and im thinking ill get another one to do the floor and boot some more as i used more on the doors than i thought i would. Also looking into getting dynapad to cover the floor.
    Last edited by TbM; 29-04-2012 at 09:26 PM.
    "I have no idols. I admire work, dedication and competence." - Ayrton Senna


  8. #20
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    melb west/sth east
    did ur dynamat come with a roller? or u brought that separate?

    i search everywer in melbourne for that fkn roller and no place has it, wat a fkn joke, i had to use a screw driver instead.

  9. #21
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    A good idea would be to use contact on the mdf?



    do up both sides then use that water proof tape on the edges.

  10. #22
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Brisbane Qld
    Car:
    2 Tonne Ek Tank
    Quote Originally Posted by honda_zivic View Post
    did ur dynamat come with a roller? or u brought that separate?

    i search everywer in melbourne for that fkn roller and no place has it, wat a fkn joke, i had to use a screw driver instead.
    i bought my roller, think its a stinger one. some of the dynamat packs on ebay come with a roller.

    IIRC ive read you can get a roller from hardware stores, its not a proper one one but will do the same job.
    "I have no idols. I admire work, dedication and competence." - Ayrton Senna


  11. #23
    Member Array
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    Mar 2011
    Location
    Brisbane Qld
    Car:
    2 Tonne Ek Tank
    Quote Originally Posted by ericl33 View Post
    A good idea would be to use contact on the mdf?



    do up both sides then use that water proof tape on the edges.
    yeh i suppose you could use that, i doubt it would actualy seal the mdf tho.

    i like putting a layer of waterproof tape on the service hole to cover it so no water can come through, then paint the mdf and place it over the top of the covered service hole even if the tape leaks a bit and the mdf gets a bit wet you shouldnt have a problem if you have given it a decent coat of paint.
    "I have no idols. I admire work, dedication and competence." - Ayrton Senna


  12. #24
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    EG Hatch
    Nice write up mate, but it ain't that dodgy! A few times i've cut out MDF panels to cover service holes in the doors, but for anyone that's concearned about the wood swelling, teflon chopping boards work well too.

    A couple of additional thing i'll add;

    - The roller is only good for getting the sheet laid out over the panel. I preferred to use a cheap trim removal tool (the kind you buy in a set at SuperCheap) and drag it across the sheet, it helps to press as much of the sheet to the panel.

    - Use a knife to cut slits in your sheets, air pockets won't stick.

    - More is not always better, and you don't "need" to 100% cover the panel. You get to a certain point where, the more you add, the less effective the extra sheets become.

    - I don't remember the honda's, but if you really want to do a "dodgy" job, you can glue the trusion bar to the door skin. By factory, many cars are glued trusion bar to skin, but over time the glue dries and comes off. You can use Sikaflex, or dodgy clear silicone for the join. This effectively turns one easy to vibrate panel into two smaller, harder to vibrate panels (if this makes sense).

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