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  1. #145
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    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    klungemobile
    Quote Originally Posted by Vvvtec View Post
    Drive shaft shop. Level 2.9 and up, stronger shafts.

    Even then, thats not going to solve the problem.
    Pro Level lol

    Once you go pro, you don't go slow.

    We're doing it for the children.

  2. #146
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    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    PnP Garage
    Car:
    BREEZE
    inb4 $2k on drive shafts lol
    part time potato

  3. #147
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    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EGG
    Quote Originally Posted by Vvvtec View Post
    Havnt got any personal experience, but those EKK1 mounts you have are notorious for binding and breaking drive shafts.

    How low is your car?
    Thanks for reply Vvvtec.
    And you are right on that. I have also "heard" and "read" about their notoriousness, but as mentioned in the 6 years of running them have been fortunate enough to not have dealt with it. So i'm quite relieved on that point.
    =)
    Admittedly, my car is not setup to beat records or anything like that. It's more of a nice daily cruiser that just happens to have a Kswap in it.

    If i'm honest, not low enough for my liking.
    My brother has always kept it at a dropped but reasonable height due to the fear of the oil sump being smashed.
    =\
    For reference, it sits with a gap between the guard and tyre still.

  4. #148
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    Aug 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EGG
    Quote Originally Posted by Vvvtec View Post
    Drive shaft shop. Level 2.9 and up, stronger shafts.

    Even then, thats not going to solve the problem.
    Is that an actual shop name OR is that reference to go to one?

    I think you're on the money there. Would just like to hear of other peoples thoughts and experiences.


    Quote Originally Posted by newpaddy3 View Post
    Might need to invest in a beefier set up. Done a lot of modifications?

    6 years is a long time though.

    http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100748
    6 years is definitely a long time. So I do think I have been fortunate with the reliability and strength shown so far.
    Interesting link. Will read up on that more during lunch break.
    Thanks for sharing.

    Quote Originally Posted by newpaddy3 View Post
    Pro Level lol

    Once you go pro, you don't go slow.

    Whoa!
    Thick as.

  5. #149
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EGG
    Quote Originally Posted by newpaddy3 View Post
    Might need to invest in a beefier set up. Done a lot of modifications?

    6 years is a long time though.

    http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100748
    Shoot. Forgot to reply to the question.
    Uhhh. As for a lot of modifications? I'm not sure what you're referring to there?
    The swap per say is a regular K Swap. Nothing too outrageous if that's what you were referring to.

  6. #150
    Member Array
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    Oct 2006
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    P1.5 460F/350R
    Quote Originally Posted by CIV-18C View Post
    I've gone through one set.
    Although they were on there for about 6 years (since the swap was in the car), and weakened when I put stickier tyres on and probably due to driving the car a little bit more spiritedly (track days,etc) then my brother did.

    Why is that?
    when you say snapped, be specific in what area of driveshaft snapped.
    did the shaft itself break, cv crowns bind or ?

    how low is your car sitting? take a pic of driveshaft angle while car on ground
    S P A M | W O R K S
    With our special rotational tires, it will allow you to drive very fast. - JK Tyre

  7. #151
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    Aug 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EGG
    Quote Originally Posted by mocchi View Post
    when you say snapped, be specific in what area of driveshaft snapped.
    did the shaft itself break, cv crowns bind or ?

    how low is your car sitting? take a pic of driveshaft angle while car on ground
    It didn't actually snap.
    More like really really worn and making the ticking noises and feeling the vibrations whilst driving.
    I'd imagine it would be near binding at close to/at full lock turning.

    I'll try and take a pic during lunch.

  8. #152
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    Aug 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EGG
    Ok so I used my superior photo skills during lunch...

    Anyway, the following pics are:

    Current ride height:



    Drivers side



    Passenger side



    Sorry for the crappy photos. I didn't want to kneel on the ground in my suit lol
    So I just crouched and tried my best.

    I believe my options to improve the situation are:

    - EKK2 engine mounts and EG/DC crossmember;
    OR
    - thicker shafts and/or 5 lug conversion as they have slightly larger shafts.

    Any other options / solutions?

    Thanks for the input so far too guys.
    Much appreciated.

  9. #153
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    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    DC2 Squared
    We would be wasting a fair whack of energy running these shafts at these angles.. I've seen worse than the above too. Funny thing is Williams ran some stupid angles on their F1 car a few years ago.

  10. #154
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    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EGG
    Sorry. But what do you mean by wasting a fair whack of energy?

  11. #155
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    Nov 2009
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    klungemobile
    Quote Originally Posted by CIV-18C View Post
    Sorry. But what do you mean by wasting a fair whack of energy?
    When the driveshaft isn't straight the engine needs to work harder to rotate it.
    We're doing it for the children.

  12. #156
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    Sep 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    DC2 Squared
    Constant velocity joints are ideally meant to run at a level angle and on the same axis as the output of the gearbox to the wheels. Anything out of this range will incur a loss.

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