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Originally Posted by bennjamin
hondas are like high upkeep girlfriends.
They demand only the real deal goods. If you feed them fake brands or cheaper stuff they WILL break down.....literally lol.
I'd never use honda FEO or ATF-z1. Just saying.
2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars
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Originally Posted by Fredoops
I'd never use honda FEO or ATF-z1. Just saying.
Each to their own. Honda fluids and aftermarket fluids both have pros and cons. Can I ask why you'd never use honda 10/30 all model oil or ATF-z1 ?
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just use real OEM fluids at all times.
Engine oil is a bit different but nbow they have the FEO synthetic you can use that if you change your oil every 4-5,000kms.. if u are a 10,000km servicer, then use FEO regular.
For your Gearbox, ALWAYS use OEM MTF unless you have some custom synchros or some aftermarket setup that requires a specific fluid be used.
Brake fluid also best to stay with OEM and flush once a year or so.
even COOLANT i'd stick witih OEM as it has additives that 'protect' the seals etc - not just anti-corrosion and cooling chemicals.
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Originally Posted by bennjamin
Each to their own. Honda fluids and aftermarket fluids both have pros and cons. Can I ask why you'd never use honda 10/30 all model oil or ATF-z1 ?
I use full-syn 5w30 (used M1EP, M1, and now Redline)instead of FEO after reading a lot of BITOG. Full-syn allows longer drains and protection, my car don't stack all that much miles so oxidation over time (6mth plus) becomes an issue for dino/semi syn oils since the car could sit in garage And not move for week at a time. So for not much more than the cost of the Dino FEO (I buy my synthetic oil direct from USA these days) I could get higher end synthetic oil, and a horsepower or 2 extra to boot. Honda FEO can claim to be fuel efficient with its friction modifers but the full synthetic I used still beats it economy wise. So Win win for me.
Also, dino FEO is bloody expansive for what it is.
ATF-Z1, well known on BITOG, it does not last the factory rec drain intervals, known to be a source of issues for Honda automatic transmissions. lots of USA-bound honda/acura owners use synthetic atf alternatives as a result.
- even Honda realised that themselves by changing to a synthetic based ATF-dw1
Last edited by Fredoops; 09-08-2012 at 02:43 AM.
Reason: Typo. iPhone fail
2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars
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Originally Posted by VT3C
just use real OEM fluids at all times.
Engine oil is a bit different but nbow they have the FEO synthetic you can use that if you change your oil every 4-5,000kms.. if u are a 10,000km servicer, then use FEO regular.
For your Gearbox, ALWAYS use OEM MTF unless you have some custom synchros or some aftermarket setup that requires a specific fluid be used.
Brake fluid also best to stay with OEM and flush once a year or so.
even COOLANT i'd stick witih OEM as it has additives that 'protect' the seals etc - not just anti-corrosion and cooling chemicals.
thanks alot on the info mate. will make sure i'll just use OEM.
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Originally Posted by VT3C
just use real OEM fluids at all times.
Engine oil is a bit different but nbow they have the FEO synthetic you can use that if you change your oil every 4-5,000kms.. if u are a 10,000km servicer, then use FEO regular.
For your Gearbox, ALWAYS use OEM MTF unless you have some custom synchros or some aftermarket setup that requires a specific fluid be used.
Brake fluid also best to stay with OEM and flush once a year or so.
even COOLANT i'd stick witih OEM as it has additives that 'protect' the seals etc - not just anti-corrosion and cooling chemicals.
Hmm I'm pretty sure it's the other way around. The Dino FEO does not last 10k km afaik
Regular 10w30 (Dino) FEO is suitable for 4-5k drains
Synthetic FEO Ultra (5w30, group 3 base oil iirc) is for longer drains up to 10k km isn't it?
2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars
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Originally Posted by Fredoops
Hmm I'm pretty sure it's the other way around. The Dino FEO does not last 10k km afaik
Regular 10w30 (Dino) FEO is suitable for 4-5k drains
Synthetic FEO Ultra (5w30, group 3 base oil iirc) is for longer drains up to 10k km isn't it?
Agree - regular FEO mineral oil is only good for 5000kms intervals - usually will require a top up or two on most engines.
Change it every 5k on a typical boring Honda daily.
Yes the FEO ultra is a 10k oil change kinda oil.
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I have not done much work on the S2000, so no specific knowledge of late stuff.
However a few years back I rebuilt the power steering rack on the mid 80s Prelude we had bought a daughter as her first car.
I was a bit doubtful of the requirement to use only Honda power steering fluid, until this time. When I found a teflon oil ring on the rack, I realised why the special oil requirement.
Some after market ATFs will be OK with teflon bits, but some will make teflon swell a little. This may not matter, but as Honda have tried to make the thing just a little better than the norm, I am prepared to use their recommendations to help keep the thing that way.
Sure some of those recommendations may be to keep you spending at the dealers, but some at least are best for your car, & worth following.
Pity my nearest Honda dealer is about an hour away, & won't deliver to private premises.
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A 1L bottle of Honda PS fluid is fairly cheap. Peace of mind included.
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Originally Posted by bennjamin
hondas are like high upkeep girlfriends.
They demand only the real deal goods. If you feed them fake brands or cheaper stuff they WILL break down.....literally lol.
I won't even touch that one lol
Toda Racing AU | Shen * Speed Works | Jesse Streeter
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Power steering and gear box oil is the only OEM honda oil i use in the car.
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