disconnect speaker cable from amp, set multi meter on lowest resistance setting, put one probe on your ground one on a speaker wire, if you get a reading that's not infinite your gonna have a bad time.
how are the connections made to the speaker? ie did you solder the joins between factory harnes and your speaker wire and properly terminate the end of the wire with spade connectors.
When trying to get the resistance should the headunit/engine be on? The sound only occurs when the engine is running- and do I have to disconnect the ground cable from the amp?
I've connected the speakers by:
- cutting the harness out. Leaving 4 stripped wires.
- 2 of the wires were DIRECTLY soldered onto the speaker
- The other two remaining ends has been duct tapped
- Today, I've just overloaded the terminals with duct tape. I even went to the extreme of duct tapping the door metal just incase there is a loose end. I think it made it somewhat better Need to play it more to notice-
You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to TbM again. Dammit TbM. Am I giving you all my rep? I can't rep you anymore :<
Also, do you mean you hear a high pitched whine? Like after a concert? that's all I can think of
LOL I always get the same message! TbM deserves to be repped more!!
Yeah I guess you could describe it like that. But you will certainly have that "feeling" in your ear after a concert. But this issue here is that my system IS NOT that loud and my ear has that same feeling. SO the sound is kinda invisible if that makes any sense.
When trying to get the resistance should the headunit/engine be on?
No, your checking if there is continuity between the speaker cable and chassis
Originally Posted by Honda
The sound only occurs when the engine is running- and do I have to disconnect the ground cable from the amp?
no, just disconnect the speaker cables from the amp and test them.
Originally Posted by Honda
I've connected the speakers by:
- cutting the harness out. Leaving 4 stripped wires.
- 2 of the wires were DIRECTLY soldered onto the speaker
- The other two remaining ends has been duct tapped
- Today, I've just overloaded the terminals with duct tape. I even went to the extreme of duct tapping the door metal just incase there is a loose end. I think it made it somewhat better Need to play it more to notice-
Ive never herd of using duct tape for wires, i use electrical tape.
"I have no idols. I admire work, dedication and competence." - Ayrton Senna
Okay I've did a continuity test between the speaker and chassis.
Results:
- On default the reading on 200 ohm (lowest level) is 1
- When black is on chassis and red is on each speaker cable the reading does not change. Still at 1 (This reading is the same with + and - of BOTH speakers)
Is this ok?
Hmm I think I'm using the wrong terms for duct tape/electrical tape. Yeah I think I was using electrical tape (its black and smooth)
Okay I've did a continuity test between the speaker and chassis.
Results:
- On default the reading on 200 ohm (lowest level) is 1
- When black is on chassis and red is on each speaker cable the reading does not change. Still at 1 (This reading is the same with + and - of BOTH speakers)
Is this ok?
Hmm I think I'm using the wrong terms for duct tape/electrical tape. Yeah I think I was using electrical tape (its black and smooth)
by 1 do you mean infinite? if its like this then its infinite and your all good.
"I have no idols. I admire work, dedication and competence." - Ayrton Senna
This is strange, I'm almost certain that the speakers are producing some sort of sound that is irritating my ear. My left ear only car hear about 70% of sounds now, I hope it gets better tomorrow...
is the interference problem fixed now you have stopped your terminals grounding out?
I think it has improved. I haven't tested it yet as my ear is still healing don't want to listen to any more of the system till my hearing goes back to normal again
Originally Posted by TbM
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Need to play it more to notice-
don't want to listen to any more of the system till my hearing goes back to normal again
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