Page 2 of 9 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 13 to 24 of 105
  1. #13
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    western sydney
    Car:
    2010 cu2 euro
    http://www.soundmaster.com.au/Pionee...fier/GMD9500F/

    if you want a bigger amp
    http://www.soundmaster.com.au/Sounds...ifier/STL4500/

    but remembering that rms will drop as the rating are set at 14.4volts
    this will be great for those speakers
    Last edited by blabla; 06-09-2012 at 01:38 PM.

  2. #14
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    western sydney
    Car:
    2010 cu2 euro
    Quote Originally Posted by Honda View Post
    14.4 volts the car runs approx at 13.xx volts- Would that mean the battery isn't capable to run that amp?

    I think SQ. I want strong bass while maintaining its quality.

    Sorry if they are noob questions, I'm just new with the terms and all
    Not that it cant handle it if you are wanting for it to run at the 14.4 you will need a cap as well unnecessary money being spent.

  3. #15
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Launceston, Tas
    Car:
    '77 Civic
    I don't see why the rms will drop? The alternator will put out 14.4 volts... or should. so, when the car is going, you should be able to tap into all the power quoted.
    Also, you don't need a cap to keep it at 14.4 volts... Caps are band-aids. Good wiring should get you 14.4volt.

  4. #16
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    NSW
    Car:
    EK1
    The Pioneer GM-D9500F and Soundstream STL4500 can go for around the 200 shipped from the usa (quite decent). But not sure about those brands and the way they produce amps..

    The soundstream amp provides:
    - 4 ohms: 80 watts x 4 channel

    In this situation, it would be "ideal" to bridge the channels together otherwise the other 2 channels will be made redundant. However, bridging the two channels together is quite strong 90Watts over what my speakers can handle.

    I read somewhere that is is not recommended to get an amp that produces more watts than max powering watts on the speaker because IF something goes wrong, it can damage everything. What are your thoughts on it?

  5. #17
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    western sydney
    Car:
    2010 cu2 euro
    I'm running this amp bridged

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...Y-PA4003U.html

    With these splits

    http://www.ryda.com.au/Philips-CSP65...s-p/csp650.htm

    One thing to remember is warranty.

  6. #18
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    western sydney
    Car:
    2010 cu2 euro
    Quote Originally Posted by Drifter995 View Post
    I don't see why the rms will drop? The alternator will put out 14.4 volts... or should. so, when the car is going, you should be able to tap into all the power quoted.
    Also, you don't need a cap to keep it at 14.4 volts... Caps are band-aids. Good wiring should get you 14.4volt.
    I have asked about it and that is what I was told I was also told to run a higher voltage u start changing alternators.

  7. #19
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Brisbane Qld
    Car:
    2 Tonne Ek Tank
    Quote Originally Posted by NightKids View Post
    Great choice of components, seems like you've done your research.

    JVC amps on the other hand... not so good. Audison gets my vote
    audison doesnt do amps that cheap with 2 x 80 rms do they?

    Quote Originally Posted by Honda View Post
    Just some noob questios-
    How does an amp work? for example, is it similar to the way the HU works? set the bass boost, voltage etc?
    When the amp is installed, I'll have to do those settings manually on the amp right or is it still done on the HU as normal?
    I ask because I really like the settings on the HU at the moment with the lame stock speakers lol
    with no subwoofer the only thing you will need to set on the amp is the gain, the headunit will control the tuning.


    Quote Originally Posted by Drifter995 View Post
    I don't see why the rms will drop? The alternator will put out 14.4 volts... or should. so, when the car is going, you should be able to tap into all the power quoted.
    Also, you don't need a cap to keep it at 14.4 volts... Caps are band-aids. Good wiring should get you 14.4volt.
    you are correct sir, although in my experience alternators will put out between 13.8v - 14.4v depending on alternator condition and you will have a vdroop, iirc mines >0.1V. even if your running at 13.8V the difference in watts is sweet fuk all.


    Quote Originally Posted by blabla View Post
    Not that it cant handle it if you are wanting for it to run at the 14.4 you will need a cap as well unnecessary money being spent.
    Quote Originally Posted by blabla View Post
    I have asked about it and that is what I was told I was also told to run a higher voltage u start changing alternators.
    Da fuk did i just read? you either listened to an "audio expert" from one of the main retailers or an ill informed mate. FYI you better off getting audio advice from a brick wall then a salesman at those major retailers.



    Quote Originally Posted by Honda View Post
    In this situation, it would be "ideal" to bridge the channels together otherwise the other 2 channels will be made redundant. However, bridging the two channels together is quite strong 90Watts over what my speakers can handle.

    I read somewhere that is is not recommended to get an amp that produces more watts than max powering watts on the speaker because IF something goes wrong, it can damage everything. What are your thoughts on it?
    Overpowering a speaker is better than underpowering it, just make sure to keep the gain down or you risk burning out the speaker. for example my front home theatre speakers are rated at 175 rms but they are fed 350 rms and have been going strong for 4+ years.
    "I have no idols. I admire work, dedication and competence." - Ayrton Senna


  8. #20
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    western sydney
    Car:
    2010 cu2 euro
    Ok how old is the car?

    I've seen the lancer before the new shape only produce 13.3-13.8 volts. Advice is hard to come buy sometimes and most of the time its the main retailers is who is willing to give some sort of info weather correct or incorrect.

  9. #21
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Brisbane Qld
    Car:
    2 Tonne Ek Tank
    Quote Originally Posted by blabla View Post
    Ok how old is the car?

    I've seen the lancer before the new shape only produce 13.3-13.8 volts. Advice is hard to come buy sometimes and most of the time its the main retailers is who is willing to give some sort of info weather correct or incorrect.
    pretty sure hes got a 98 ek1.

    if my car was reading in the low 13's id look at the alternator and grounding points, even my old commadore that i got as my first car read 13.8v at idle.

    the advise salesmen give you is often to make more sales rather than teach you more about what they are selling, specialty stores often have better salesmen than the main retailers. If you would like to know more about car audio the MEA forums are a good place to learn.
    "I have no idols. I admire work, dedication and competence." - Ayrton Senna


  10. #22
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    western sydney
    Car:
    2010 cu2 euro
    Alternator reading can change depending on condition and age which you are right, but a new car will more then likely produce the correct voltage eg my misses Mazda 3 diesel should instantly produce the 14.4 votls due to the size of the alternator.

  11. #23
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    NSW
    Car:
    EK1
    Conclusion? Do i need to worry about changing battery or anything?

    I have a 98 civic gli ek1 as TbM said-

    It is nice to know that I only need to set the gain on the amp and that's it! I was worried about tuning it correctly

  12. #24
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    western sydney
    Car:
    2010 cu2 euro
    just check health of alternator (local auto electrician can do it) and make sure your battery is in good condition.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.1.3


Terms and Conditions
Ozhonda.com is in no way affiliated with the Honda motor company or Honda Australia in anyway whatsoever.