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  1. #1
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Car:
    CL9 Euro Luxury

    [CL9] Has anyone amplified in-cabin speakers??

    Tried searching for other threads on this, but haven't really found anything on it.

    Just wondering if anyone's re-wired and amplified the door speakers and if so, would you be able to give me some instructions on how to go about going it.


    I'm running the power wires down the left panels and RCA's down the right (speaker RCA's aren't plugged in). Got stuck trying to run the wires down the middle, but if there's a way you run the wires down the middle (under the carpet and centre console), I'd love to know about it.
    Coz I'm not sure if putting the RCA's and speaker wires together is gonna cause any noise, coz I know running them parallel to the power wires will.

    Just in case anyone wanted to know/ask, the setup I have right now is:

    - Alpine IDA-X305S H/U
    - JL C2-650 [front] (got tweeters too, but they're not hooked up)
    - JL C2-690TX [rear] (want to wire up JL C2-600's in the rear passenger doors)
    - Kicker ZX700.5 amp
    - 15" Alpine R-series sub


    Also, I'm intendng to get a sound processor as well. Right now I'm in between the JBL's MS-8 and Alpine's PXA-H800, but not sure which one I should get.


    Any advice/input would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    I had my audio system installed by freeway audio, they ran the power down the left and RCAs down the right.
    Speaker wires are running both on the left and right, there is no noticable noise with my system. same C2-650 and Boston SR95 hooked up to amps, though I have this running off an ALpine CDE-177e which apparently is really good for reducing any kind of interference.

  3. #3
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Wollongong NSW
    Car:
    2004 Honda Accord Euro
    i ran my cables under the door sills.... better and neater lol
    I just mounted my amps on the back of seats and ran cables under back seat... piece of piss really .... just shit thing is getting the damn head unit off... lol

    i got Rockford Fosgates punch 6.5 inch 3 ways on front doors and 6x9 4 way on back tray... with 2 punch 12s subs in the boot with a 4 channel and monoblock amp
    BraXtas Ride

    List of parts added
    - Exhaust system - Custom CAI setup - K&N Air Filter - Rockford Fosgate Speaker setup with punch 2 Subs - J's Racing Front Strut bar

  4. #4
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    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Car:
    CL9 Euro Luxury
    Nice. Yeah, I've done pretty much the same (don't think I'd ever accept cables running inside the cabin on the ground, though if you're really a sound freak (guys with like 6+ 15" subs and 4+ amps... then yeah, guess there's not really any more room under the side panels)

    Anyways, what I'm asking is if anyone's re-wired the factory wiring and changed it with i.e. 10 or 12 gauge speaker wire running from the amp to the door speakers.

    And if they have, I'd just like to know how they went about doing it, i.e. instructions or if they can direct me to a DIY or any photos would be good.


    @Braxta: did you do the 4-channel wiring yourself, or was it done professionally? Lol, I know what you mean with the headunit, but I've done it enough times that it's a piece of cake too..
    Handy trick is to grab it at the back of the dash and pull back so it arches a little bit, makes popping it out a lot easier, especially if you have panel removing tools.

  5. #5
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    Jan 2012
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Euro Lux MY12
    Quote Originally Posted by wammies View Post

    Anyways, what I'm asking is if anyone's re-wired the factory wiring and changed it with i.e. 10 or 12 gauge speaker wire running from the amp to the door speakers.
    I have rewired with 10AWG cablings (6 x 0.5mm threads) and have noticed a difference personally with just stock speakers... i used 99% silver as the solder direct joints also so there's no copper joints in the way ( except the speaker/connections terminals where I coated the entire connector in silver) lol

  6. #6
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Wollongong NSW
    Car:
    2004 Honda Accord Euro
    yeh well my wiring is changed too =D i would never keep stock wiring its poop =D and there will always be a difference with better cable. =D
    BraXtas Ride

    List of parts added
    - Exhaust system - Custom CAI setup - K&N Air Filter - Rockford Fosgate Speaker setup with punch 2 Subs - J's Racing Front Strut bar

  7. #7
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    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Car:
    CL9 Euro Luxury
    LOL, you guys are so funny, you all tell me how good it is and whatnot, think we all know that replacing the wiring is DEFINITELY GOOD and there'll be an improvement in sound quality.

    What I want to know is:

    HOW DID YOU CHANGE THE WIRES..what did you do?

    For example, I want to know how you get the wires into the doors. Will I need to remove the panels in the middle, between the front and rear door sills?? There's some sort of rubber hose/tubing that connects between the chassis and the doors which I think is where all the wiring goes, how do I access all that?

  8. #8
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Wollongong NSW
    Car:
    2004 Honda Accord Euro
    ooooohhh... lol

    i just poked a hole in the rubber that joins the wiring and fed cables through there... too tight to feed through tube =D
    BraXtas Ride

    List of parts added
    - Exhaust system - Custom CAI setup - K&N Air Filter - Rockford Fosgate Speaker setup with punch 2 Subs - J's Racing Front Strut bar

  9. #9
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    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Car:
    CL9 Euro Luxury
    Do you reckon spraying silicone or lubricant will help or is there no room for 10 or 12 AWG speaker wire?

  10. #10
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Wollongong NSW
    Car:
    2004 Honda Accord Euro
    I used wire loob which i used at work to pull thick 2 inch cable through conduits and it still didnt work just made a mess (lube everywhere)
    =D

    like a porn gone wrong lol
    BraXtas Ride

    List of parts added
    - Exhaust system - Custom CAI setup - K&N Air Filter - Rockford Fosgate Speaker setup with punch 2 Subs - J's Racing Front Strut bar

  11. #11
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Wollongong NSW
    Car:
    2004 Honda Accord Euro
    Quote Originally Posted by wammies View Post
    @Braxta: did you do the 4-channel wiring yourself, or was it done professionally? Lol, I know what you mean with the headunit, but I've done it enough times that it's a piece of cake too..
    Handy trick is to grab it at the back of the dash and pull back so it arches a little bit, makes popping it out a lot easier, especially if you have panel removing tools.
    sorry didnt notice u asked me something lol.. yeh i did the whole thing my self.... funny thing about it was that the new stereo killed the standard Battery so tip if your getting big steza... get a better battery (der =P)
    BraXtas Ride

    List of parts added
    - Exhaust system - Custom CAI setup - K&N Air Filter - Rockford Fosgate Speaker setup with punch 2 Subs - J's Racing Front Strut bar

  12. #12
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Car:
    CL9 Euro Luxury
    I'm gonna do the big 3 upgrade. Should be okay. I'm considering doing a relocation or having a 2nd battery hooked up at the back. Though I don't think that's gonna be necessary since I'm not gonna be running any more amps and the music won't be thumping loud.
    Just want good sound quality and better control.

    Btw, I'm still trying to see if I can run any wires down the middle under the centre console and under the carpet. That way, not gonna get any possible noise from power and speaker wires crossing.
    May need to take the seats out for that, but if there's a way that I can do that without having to dismount all the seats then I'm sure me along with quite a few other people would love to know.

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